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Maintaining those Colored Hulls

Not model or forum specific.

Moderators: DougSea, RobS

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RobS
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Post by RobS »

Saltshaker,

Not sure exactly what info you are looking for? For polishing the speed dial is set btwn 1 & 3. Speeds 4 thru 6 are for sanding. You need to have the backing pad installed for polishing so you can use the hook & loop wool bonnet. The bonnet just gets pressed onto the pad. I'm using a Porter-Cable Buffing Pad No. 54742.

Hope this helps. Enjoy the results - nothing beats instant gratification!

Rob
Rob S.
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1974 Chris Craft 36' Commander Tournament
Cummins 6BTA 330B's

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Luck is the residue of good design.
saltshaker28
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Post by saltshaker28 »

I went to auto geek .com and they told me to use a sponge type pad for coumpoonding the hull I hope they steered me the right way I am heavely oxidized looking for any info that can help me out
DrNickS
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Here is what worked for me - Maintaining those Colored Hulls

Post by DrNickS »

Here is what worked for me. After a few seasons my 2001 Albin TE with a flag blue hull had developed what appeared to be water spots that can be seen through the wax layer. From what I heard from detailing specialists they were probably etching spots in the gel coat from the effects of saltwater exposure. I tried compounding and polishing with a Porter Cable 7424 orbital polisher http://www.properautocare.com/basporcab74p.html which always worked great on my cars. It did not remove the spots and oxidation.

I was always hesitant to use my circular polisher, fearing that I may “burn” the gel coat but decided to give it a try. I got these orange polishing pads (item #: CCSOEM-65PWR/2) http://www.properautocare.com/oeccste65inf.html (scroll down to the bottom of the link to see the price - $11.97 for a set of 2). These orange pads on my circular polisher, a cheaper version of this Makita http://www.properautocare.com/makhigspeedp.html used with Meguiar’s #49 Oxidation Remover removed all the water spots, swirl marks and oxidation leaving a deep, dark blue that I had not seen since my boat was new. My polisher has two speeds – 2100 and 2500 rpm, safer than some of the very higher speed polishers. When using the Meguiar’s the residue produced had the appearance and light blue color of dried mint toothpaste. Then I followed up with a white pad with Mother’s carnauba cleaner/wax which left a high gloss. A brand new 2008 version of my boat was near mine in the yard and my final finish was the same.

DrNickS
Adagio
2001 Albin TE
Gloucester and Boxford, MA[/img]
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Last edited by DrNickS on Wed Apr 23, 2008 4:59 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Nick Senzamici
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Looks terrific

Post by Legacy »

Beautiful finish. Thanks for the specific product mentions, helps a lot. Perhaps you'd like to experiment on a 35 and see of it does the same job!

Rick
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Post by Cape Codder »

Nick,
Ditto, ditto, ditto!!
I tried Saturday with my Porter-Cable 7424, and had the EXACT same results with the water spots etc. etc.
Got my hands on a 7" "professsional' buffer and pads and away I go this Saturday.
Your pics have set the standard of what I am looking to do.
Thanks!

I'm going with 3M, and their compound, finesse-it II, and the new Scotchguard boat wax with lots of UV inhibitors.....trying to extend the life of that deep blue.
Let you know how I make out.
Hey, I'm only on the Cape if you're looking for something to do on Saturday!!
:lol:
Bob
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Colored Hulls

Post by RicM »

Bob:

Finesse it is an extremely fine finish compound. If you have oxidation and spots that you want to take down to color you will be much better off to start with 3M Super Duty, sold at most West Marine stores, then a second pass with Finesse It. You hear a lot about "burning through" the gelcoat. It's damn near impossible with either of these products, automotive paint yes, gelcoat no. All these compounds have a liquid base that makes the finish look a lot better when wet, then, in a few hours when dry the spots/oxidation shows again.

My hull:

Image

products

Image
Ric Murray

Big Time, 42' 1993 Jersey Sportfish
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DrNickS
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Another tip - cleaning those pads

Post by DrNickS »

Cape Codder wrote:Nick,
Ditto, ditto, ditto!!
I tried Saturday with my Porter-Cable 7424, and had the EXACT same results with the water spots etc. etc.
Got my hands on a 7" "professsional' buffer and pads and away I go this Saturday.
Your pics have set the standard of what I am looking to do.
Thanks!
Another tip. The orange pads I mentioned in my last post get very caked with reside. I wanted to reuse them. Lestoil is a great degreaser for wax laden pads but did not remove the caked on gelcoat residue. I removed it all very successfully using household wax remover which is mostly ammonia. Then I washed and rinsed the pads completely and they looked like new. I may even use the wax remover on my hull next spring before I start the buffing procedure.
Before I started the procedure, my hull looked just like the photos that RicM posted. Let me know how you make out and post your results. Isn't this fun?!
Nick Senzamici
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Post by Cape Codder »

RicM,
Sorry for the confusion. I am using 3m Super duty compound first and then finesse-it II, following up with Scotchguard Wax with UV inhibitors.
A 3 step process (Oh joy!!)
I have a small "cheapo" 5" buffer and tried a small section at high speed, and THEN I knew I needed to get serious.
That's when I borrowed the "professional", super duty, industrial strength, turbo-charged, fire-breathing 7" monster variable speed, hold-on tight buffer.
Can't wait to give her a "spin". ( I won't be able to walk or move my arms for about 4 days after I use this thing!)
My , 6'2" 205lb 30 year-old son is planning to head for the Cape on Saturday......oh yeah....that'll be just fine.....
I'll keep you posted on results.

Nick,
Keep those helpful hints coming....they all sound right to me.
Bob
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Post by RicM »

Another tip from one who has just finished the process, remember to remove your watch, a couple of hours of that kind of vibration is not going to do it any good. Also remember to take some aspirin before bed. Like you I started with one of those little Waxmaster 5" units from the boat or auto store. NFW. The 7" high speed unit from Harbor Freight ($29 on sale) did a great job until the first time I dropped it off the ladder. The whole plastic case disintergrated. Oh well, get what you pay for.
Ric Murray

Big Time, 42' 1993 Jersey Sportfish
Formerly owned Time After Time, 2003 28TE
Wickford RI
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Post by RobS »

As I posted on earlier on this thread, the hull looks like a new car after 3M Perfect -It Extra Cut & then 3M Perfect-It Rubbing Compound with the machine and a coating of Nu Finish by hand. I did a 2nd coat of Nu Finish this Saturday morning before she splashed which was about 2 weeks after the initial one.

I was really dreading doing this too knowing it would be a 3-4 step process but I must say, the "instant gratification" of the super results keeps you going. I had my father applying the compoud I worked the machine behind him. We'd finish a side, towel it off and then move on to the next product Having two people really simplified the process, rather than having to keep stopping and putting the machine down. You really get into a rythym with the machine not having to keep stopping - almost like "slow-dancin'" with the hull :D

Bob, if you were on Long Island I'd surely help you out.

My boat's prior owner kept it on a mooring so it got high exposure, especially to the starboard side. At our house she sits in a 3 sided slip just wider than her beam. I'm thinking this should help reduce the degradation of the finish - we will see...

In the slip all I can really appreciate is the transom unless it's a high tide. This picture was taken at low tide. And here's another picture with the shine of the hull.
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Rob S.
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1974 Chris Craft 36' Commander Tournament
Cummins 6BTA 330B's

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"TOY-RIFIC" 2000 28TE, 6LP, Hull 408

Luck is the residue of good design.
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Post by mhanna »

Wow Rob that looks great, I always liked how those dark hulls looked after cleaning them up.
The fact thats its in a 3 sided slip is great, no one else to bump into, ect.. Im sure it will stay nice for a log time.

Matt
2001 28TE - Doghouse
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Post by DrNickS »

RobS, you hull looks great! We should change the name of this thread to "Maintaining those colored hulls is so easy."
Nick Senzamici
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Post by Cape Codder »

Rob,
A thing of beauty!!!!
Nice job.
I used the super duty buffer today and WOW!!!
I'll have to take some pics....
Bob
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Post by jcollins »

I have been following this thread. Bought everything recommended. Did too much work, too many coats. But...it looks a hell of alot better than it did. It will get me through one more season then next year it's time for paint.
The new canvas is on. The new combing pads will be installed this weekend.
I am wet. In the water! But, now everything topsides has to be cleaned. Looking forward to that this weekend and the first run. The admiral has also reminded me the grass at the swamp is close to 10" high. :evil:
I had also wanted to go to the boat show this weekend. :(
John
Former - 28 TE Convertible"Afterglow"
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maintaining discolored hulls

Post by saltshaker28 »

Help I got the oxidation to leave the hull it looks pretty good but no matter what wax I try it seems to leave a white cloud after I wipe it down with a terrycloth towel HELP
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