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Maintaining those Colored Hulls
- RobS
- Gold Member
- Posts: 4044
- Joined: Wed Oct 03, 2007 6:20 am
- Home Port: Center Moriches, NY
- Contact:
Saltshaker,
Not sure exactly what info you are looking for? For polishing the speed dial is set btwn 1 & 3. Speeds 4 thru 6 are for sanding. You need to have the backing pad installed for polishing so you can use the hook & loop wool bonnet. The bonnet just gets pressed onto the pad. I'm using a Porter-Cable Buffing Pad No. 54742.
Hope this helps. Enjoy the results - nothing beats instant gratification!
Rob
Not sure exactly what info you are looking for? For polishing the speed dial is set btwn 1 & 3. Speeds 4 thru 6 are for sanding. You need to have the backing pad installed for polishing so you can use the hook & loop wool bonnet. The bonnet just gets pressed onto the pad. I'm using a Porter-Cable Buffing Pad No. 54742.
Hope this helps. Enjoy the results - nothing beats instant gratification!
Rob
Rob S.
"TENACIOUS"
1974 Chris Craft 36' Commander Tournament
Cummins 6BTA 330B's
(Former Owner)
"TOY-RIFIC" 2000 28TE, 6LP, Hull 408
Luck is the residue of good design.
"TENACIOUS"
1974 Chris Craft 36' Commander Tournament
Cummins 6BTA 330B's
(Former Owner)
"TOY-RIFIC" 2000 28TE, 6LP, Hull 408
Luck is the residue of good design.
-
- Gold Member
- Posts: 211
- Joined: Thu Jul 05, 2007 6:42 pm
-
- Gold Member
- Posts: 35
- Joined: Sat Dec 30, 2006 10:38 am
- Home Port: Rockport, MA
- Location: Rockport, MA
- Contact:
Here is what worked for me - Maintaining those Colored Hulls
Here is what worked for me. After a few seasons my 2001 Albin TE with a flag blue hull had developed what appeared to be water spots that can be seen through the wax layer. From what I heard from detailing specialists they were probably etching spots in the gel coat from the effects of saltwater exposure. I tried compounding and polishing with a Porter Cable 7424 orbital polisher http://www.properautocare.com/basporcab74p.html which always worked great on my cars. It did not remove the spots and oxidation.
I was always hesitant to use my circular polisher, fearing that I may “burn” the gel coat but decided to give it a try. I got these orange polishing pads (item #: CCSOEM-65PWR/2) http://www.properautocare.com/oeccste65inf.html (scroll down to the bottom of the link to see the price - $11.97 for a set of 2). These orange pads on my circular polisher, a cheaper version of this Makita http://www.properautocare.com/makhigspeedp.html used with Meguiar’s #49 Oxidation Remover removed all the water spots, swirl marks and oxidation leaving a deep, dark blue that I had not seen since my boat was new. My polisher has two speeds – 2100 and 2500 rpm, safer than some of the very higher speed polishers. When using the Meguiar’s the residue produced had the appearance and light blue color of dried mint toothpaste. Then I followed up with a white pad with Mother’s carnauba cleaner/wax which left a high gloss. A brand new 2008 version of my boat was near mine in the yard and my final finish was the same.
DrNickS
Adagio
2001 Albin TE
Gloucester and Boxford, MA[/img]
I was always hesitant to use my circular polisher, fearing that I may “burn” the gel coat but decided to give it a try. I got these orange polishing pads (item #: CCSOEM-65PWR/2) http://www.properautocare.com/oeccste65inf.html (scroll down to the bottom of the link to see the price - $11.97 for a set of 2). These orange pads on my circular polisher, a cheaper version of this Makita http://www.properautocare.com/makhigspeedp.html used with Meguiar’s #49 Oxidation Remover removed all the water spots, swirl marks and oxidation leaving a deep, dark blue that I had not seen since my boat was new. My polisher has two speeds – 2100 and 2500 rpm, safer than some of the very higher speed polishers. When using the Meguiar’s the residue produced had the appearance and light blue color of dried mint toothpaste. Then I followed up with a white pad with Mother’s carnauba cleaner/wax which left a high gloss. A brand new 2008 version of my boat was near mine in the yard and my final finish was the same.
DrNickS
Adagio
2001 Albin TE
Gloucester and Boxford, MA[/img]
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Last edited by DrNickS on Wed Apr 23, 2008 4:59 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Nick Senzamici
Adagio, 28TE 2001
Rockport, MA
Adagio, 28TE 2001
Rockport, MA
-
- Gold Member
- Posts: 411
- Joined: Mon Apr 17, 2006 1:40 pm
- Home Port: Boston, MA
- Location: Boston
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Looks terrific
Beautiful finish. Thanks for the specific product mentions, helps a lot. Perhaps you'd like to experiment on a 35 and see of it does the same job!
Rick
Rick
Rick
1998 Albin 35TE
"Legacy"
1998 Albin 35TE
"Legacy"
- Cape Codder
- Gold Member
- Posts: 363
- Joined: Thu Apr 19, 2007 8:59 pm
- Location: Falmouth, MA - Cape Cod
Nick,
Ditto, ditto, ditto!!
I tried Saturday with my Porter-Cable 7424, and had the EXACT same results with the water spots etc. etc.
Got my hands on a 7" "professsional' buffer and pads and away I go this Saturday.
Your pics have set the standard of what I am looking to do.
Thanks!
I'm going with 3M, and their compound, finesse-it II, and the new Scotchguard boat wax with lots of UV inhibitors.....trying to extend the life of that deep blue.
Let you know how I make out.
Hey, I'm only on the Cape if you're looking for something to do on Saturday!!
Ditto, ditto, ditto!!
I tried Saturday with my Porter-Cable 7424, and had the EXACT same results with the water spots etc. etc.
Got my hands on a 7" "professsional' buffer and pads and away I go this Saturday.
Your pics have set the standard of what I am looking to do.
Thanks!
I'm going with 3M, and their compound, finesse-it II, and the new Scotchguard boat wax with lots of UV inhibitors.....trying to extend the life of that deep blue.
Let you know how I make out.
Hey, I'm only on the Cape if you're looking for something to do on Saturday!!
Bob
2003 Albin 28 TE
Santosha
2003 Albin 28 TE
Santosha
-
- Gold Member
- Posts: 1209
- Joined: Sat Dec 02, 2006 10:06 am
- Location: Wickford RI
- Contact:
Colored Hulls
Bob:
Finesse it is an extremely fine finish compound. If you have oxidation and spots that you want to take down to color you will be much better off to start with 3M Super Duty, sold at most West Marine stores, then a second pass with Finesse It. You hear a lot about "burning through" the gelcoat. It's damn near impossible with either of these products, automotive paint yes, gelcoat no. All these compounds have a liquid base that makes the finish look a lot better when wet, then, in a few hours when dry the spots/oxidation shows again.
My hull:
products
Finesse it is an extremely fine finish compound. If you have oxidation and spots that you want to take down to color you will be much better off to start with 3M Super Duty, sold at most West Marine stores, then a second pass with Finesse It. You hear a lot about "burning through" the gelcoat. It's damn near impossible with either of these products, automotive paint yes, gelcoat no. All these compounds have a liquid base that makes the finish look a lot better when wet, then, in a few hours when dry the spots/oxidation shows again.
My hull:
products
Ric Murray
Big Time, 42' 1993 Jersey Sportfish
Formerly owned Time After Time, 2003 28TE
Wickford RI
Big Time, 42' 1993 Jersey Sportfish
Formerly owned Time After Time, 2003 28TE
Wickford RI
-
- Gold Member
- Posts: 35
- Joined: Sat Dec 30, 2006 10:38 am
- Home Port: Rockport, MA
- Location: Rockport, MA
- Contact:
Another tip - cleaning those pads
Another tip. The orange pads I mentioned in my last post get very caked with reside. I wanted to reuse them. Lestoil is a great degreaser for wax laden pads but did not remove the caked on gelcoat residue. I removed it all very successfully using household wax remover which is mostly ammonia. Then I washed and rinsed the pads completely and they looked like new. I may even use the wax remover on my hull next spring before I start the buffing procedure.Cape Codder wrote:Nick,
Ditto, ditto, ditto!!
I tried Saturday with my Porter-Cable 7424, and had the EXACT same results with the water spots etc. etc.
Got my hands on a 7" "professsional' buffer and pads and away I go this Saturday.
Your pics have set the standard of what I am looking to do.
Thanks!
Before I started the procedure, my hull looked just like the photos that RicM posted. Let me know how you make out and post your results. Isn't this fun?!
Nick Senzamici
Adagio, 28TE 2001
Rockport, MA
Adagio, 28TE 2001
Rockport, MA
- Cape Codder
- Gold Member
- Posts: 363
- Joined: Thu Apr 19, 2007 8:59 pm
- Location: Falmouth, MA - Cape Cod
RicM,
Sorry for the confusion. I am using 3m Super duty compound first and then finesse-it II, following up with Scotchguard Wax with UV inhibitors.
A 3 step process (Oh joy!!)
I have a small "cheapo" 5" buffer and tried a small section at high speed, and THEN I knew I needed to get serious.
That's when I borrowed the "professional", super duty, industrial strength, turbo-charged, fire-breathing 7" monster variable speed, hold-on tight buffer.
Can't wait to give her a "spin". ( I won't be able to walk or move my arms for about 4 days after I use this thing!)
My , 6'2" 205lb 30 year-old son is planning to head for the Cape on Saturday......oh yeah....that'll be just fine.....
I'll keep you posted on results.
Nick,
Keep those helpful hints coming....they all sound right to me.
Sorry for the confusion. I am using 3m Super duty compound first and then finesse-it II, following up with Scotchguard Wax with UV inhibitors.
A 3 step process (Oh joy!!)
I have a small "cheapo" 5" buffer and tried a small section at high speed, and THEN I knew I needed to get serious.
That's when I borrowed the "professional", super duty, industrial strength, turbo-charged, fire-breathing 7" monster variable speed, hold-on tight buffer.
Can't wait to give her a "spin". ( I won't be able to walk or move my arms for about 4 days after I use this thing!)
My , 6'2" 205lb 30 year-old son is planning to head for the Cape on Saturday......oh yeah....that'll be just fine.....
I'll keep you posted on results.
Nick,
Keep those helpful hints coming....they all sound right to me.
Bob
2003 Albin 28 TE
Santosha
2003 Albin 28 TE
Santosha
-
- Gold Member
- Posts: 1209
- Joined: Sat Dec 02, 2006 10:06 am
- Location: Wickford RI
- Contact:
Arms
Another tip from one who has just finished the process, remember to remove your watch, a couple of hours of that kind of vibration is not going to do it any good. Also remember to take some aspirin before bed. Like you I started with one of those little Waxmaster 5" units from the boat or auto store. NFW. The 7" high speed unit from Harbor Freight ($29 on sale) did a great job until the first time I dropped it off the ladder. The whole plastic case disintergrated. Oh well, get what you pay for.
Ric Murray
Big Time, 42' 1993 Jersey Sportfish
Formerly owned Time After Time, 2003 28TE
Wickford RI
Big Time, 42' 1993 Jersey Sportfish
Formerly owned Time After Time, 2003 28TE
Wickford RI
- RobS
- Gold Member
- Posts: 4044
- Joined: Wed Oct 03, 2007 6:20 am
- Home Port: Center Moriches, NY
- Contact:
As I posted on earlier on this thread, the hull looks like a new car after 3M Perfect -It Extra Cut & then 3M Perfect-It Rubbing Compound with the machine and a coating of Nu Finish by hand. I did a 2nd coat of Nu Finish this Saturday morning before she splashed which was about 2 weeks after the initial one.
I was really dreading doing this too knowing it would be a 3-4 step process but I must say, the "instant gratification" of the super results keeps you going. I had my father applying the compoud I worked the machine behind him. We'd finish a side, towel it off and then move on to the next product Having two people really simplified the process, rather than having to keep stopping and putting the machine down. You really get into a rythym with the machine not having to keep stopping - almost like "slow-dancin'" with the hull
Bob, if you were on Long Island I'd surely help you out.
My boat's prior owner kept it on a mooring so it got high exposure, especially to the starboard side. At our house she sits in a 3 sided slip just wider than her beam. I'm thinking this should help reduce the degradation of the finish - we will see...
In the slip all I can really appreciate is the transom unless it's a high tide. This picture was taken at low tide. And here's another picture with the shine of the hull.
I was really dreading doing this too knowing it would be a 3-4 step process but I must say, the "instant gratification" of the super results keeps you going. I had my father applying the compoud I worked the machine behind him. We'd finish a side, towel it off and then move on to the next product Having two people really simplified the process, rather than having to keep stopping and putting the machine down. You really get into a rythym with the machine not having to keep stopping - almost like "slow-dancin'" with the hull
Bob, if you were on Long Island I'd surely help you out.
My boat's prior owner kept it on a mooring so it got high exposure, especially to the starboard side. At our house she sits in a 3 sided slip just wider than her beam. I'm thinking this should help reduce the degradation of the finish - we will see...
In the slip all I can really appreciate is the transom unless it's a high tide. This picture was taken at low tide. And here's another picture with the shine of the hull.
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post. To view images, please register for a free account.
Rob S.
"TENACIOUS"
1974 Chris Craft 36' Commander Tournament
Cummins 6BTA 330B's
(Former Owner)
"TOY-RIFIC" 2000 28TE, 6LP, Hull 408
Luck is the residue of good design.
"TENACIOUS"
1974 Chris Craft 36' Commander Tournament
Cummins 6BTA 330B's
(Former Owner)
"TOY-RIFIC" 2000 28TE, 6LP, Hull 408
Luck is the residue of good design.
- mhanna
- Gold Member
- Posts: 270
- Joined: Mon Oct 02, 2006 11:45 am
- Home Port: Sayville NY
- Location: Sayville, NY
-
- Gold Member
- Posts: 35
- Joined: Sat Dec 30, 2006 10:38 am
- Home Port: Rockport, MA
- Location: Rockport, MA
- Contact:
- Cape Codder
- Gold Member
- Posts: 363
- Joined: Thu Apr 19, 2007 8:59 pm
- Location: Falmouth, MA - Cape Cod
- jcollins
- In Memorium
- Posts: 4927
- Joined: Sun Apr 16, 2006 9:05 pm
- Home Port: Baltimore
- Location: Seneca Creek Marina
- Contact:
I have been following this thread. Bought everything recommended. Did too much work, too many coats. But...it looks a hell of alot better than it did. It will get me through one more season then next year it's time for paint.
The new canvas is on. The new combing pads will be installed this weekend.
I am wet. In the water! But, now everything topsides has to be cleaned. Looking forward to that this weekend and the first run. The admiral has also reminded me the grass at the swamp is close to 10" high.
I had also wanted to go to the boat show this weekend.
The new canvas is on. The new combing pads will be installed this weekend.
I am wet. In the water! But, now everything topsides has to be cleaned. Looking forward to that this weekend and the first run. The admiral has also reminded me the grass at the swamp is close to 10" high.
I had also wanted to go to the boat show this weekend.
John
Former - 28 TE Convertible"Afterglow"
Former - 28 TE Convertible"Afterglow"
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- Gold Member
- Posts: 211
- Joined: Thu Jul 05, 2007 6:42 pm
maintaining discolored hulls
Help I got the oxidation to leave the hull it looks pretty good but no matter what wax I try it seems to leave a white cloud after I wipe it down with a terrycloth towel HELP