Rubbing Strake replacement

[DCatSea]

One of my tasks for the layup is to replace the OEM rubbing strake on Mazboot, and trying to make it a bit sturdier than standard Albin version.
We are loving our new slip in Alexandria VA but local Washington DC boat "captains" drive as they do on the Beltway, which means regular waking of downstream marinas. Not fun.
One of the definitives for a rubbing strake is that it should be sturdy and easily replaceable when bashed around so any ideas or comments would be greatly appreciated.

[Fred Webster]

I'm following this subject, as I need to replace it, as well.

[DCatSea]

Hi Fred
I'm told this goes a lot easier when the weather warms up, but/so I'll be doing it hopefully in a couple of weeks. Tried a section yesterday to check fit, and it seems very good; tight but good.
Expect it to be a SOB to fit, and will probably need a larger rubber mallet, but look forward to seeing a big difference once it's on.
I intend to put a big bead of sealer under/in the rubrail; don't think it's really needed, but just in case.....
I'll post details of the part number etc, shortly, and pics of before, during and after.

[DCatSea]

Mea Culpa
After fretting about doing this project single-handed for a while, and promising to post-pix as it progressed, I finished it and didn't get round to posting promised results.
So, my readers will be glad to know it went a lot easier than I thought it would. Following AOG advice, I left the new rail in the back of my SUV in the sun for a day or two to soften up. It did soften up.
Then I tied it up in place all round the boat. This made lifting it into position a lot easier, and single-handed installation somewhat less of a pain.
Then followed a couple of hours ladder work, lifting the rail into place and mallet-ing it over the existing backer. The bow was not easy, but it went on in one piece with some muscle power evident.
HINT: I learned quickly to use spring clamps to hold it in place until all was in place.
Transom piece is a separate section.
I screwed the ends into the aft corners with #10 1 1/4 SS screws with finishing washers.

Next stage of the operation:
All is tight, but I think there'll be some expansion by the end of the season, so during the next layup I'm going to check tightness and add screws at 24" centers on the transom, and also at the port and stbd entry points.