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cutlass bearing

Engines, Electric, Plumbing, etc.

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Pedro
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Re: cutlass bearing

Post by Pedro »

I have never pulled an Inboard prop,, but I do have large plumbers wrenches and if the nuts come off I might be able to pull prop without too much trouble although understand you need a prop puller most of the time,
WillieC
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Re: cutlass bearing

Post by WillieC »

Is mine the only shaft that has a 30mm fine thread nut on the backside (inboard side) of the propeller? The shaft is standard 1:10 metric taper and with a little tension from the 30mm bronze nut and a little tap, tap, tap with a block of wood around the root of the prop...BANG the prop is off. This is one of the reasons I want to keep my shaft if at all possible, although once I get a new prop and cutlass, I don't plan on removing it often, barring damage.
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DougSea
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Re: cutlass bearing

Post by DougSea »

Pedro wrote:I have never pulled an Inboard prop,, but I do have large plumbers wrenches and if the nuts come off I might be able to pull prop without too much trouble although understand you need a prop puller most of the time,
You'll want to use a puller. I had the prop on our 28 "tuned" and the company doing the work (I believe they went by "Pitch Perfect" and are now out of business) lent me the puller.

Put it on, tighten, wait, tighten, wait, tighten - off!
Doug
Sonny IV
2006 35TE Convertible, Volvo D6-370's
Former owner - Sonny III, 1997 28TE with "The BEAST"
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RobS
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Re: cutlass bearing

Post by RobS »

DougSea wrote:...Put it on, tighten, wait, tighten, wait, tighten - off!
and then Bang! (remember, nuts on loose when using the puller)

Chuck from Pitch Perfect is great. Out of business? Hmmm... I worked with him 2 seasons back, he should still be in the NY metro area but I am not 100% sure of that now that you mention it... I recommended him on boatdiesel a couple weeks back and never heard yay or nay. I will text him today and make sure he's still around.

I wouldn't bother pulling the prop unless you can get your hands on the right puller. Whomever you have do the cutlass will pull the prop for you. Here's the Pro-Pull puller I used on the Albin and on my current boat.
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Rob S.
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1974 Chris Craft 36' Commander Tournament
Cummins 6BTA 330B's

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"TOY-RIFIC" 2000 28TE, 6LP, Hull 408

Luck is the residue of good design.
Pedro
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Re: cutlass bearing

Post by Pedro »

I'm going to get one of the mechanics I work with to take a look and determine if it needs to be done and if so give me an estimate, if price is out of line I will try to do the job,
WillieC
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Re: cutlass bearing

Post by WillieC »

Anything prop related the price goes immediately out of line. Even had the local shop tell me that's what happens when youse guys import all these furren boats and then complain about everything being so expensive.
Gee, I guess I'll set a match to it and see if there is anything remotely close to an A25 out there. Anyone? Anyone? Buehler?
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RobS
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Re: cutlass bearing

Post by RobS »

RobS wrote: Chuck from Pitch Perfect is great. Out of business? Hmmm... I worked with him 2 seasons back, he should still be in the NY metro area but I am not 100% sure of that now that you mention it... I recommended him on boatdiesel a couple weeks back and never heard yay or nay. I will text him today and make sure he's still around..
Exchanged some texts with Chuck Gray of Pitch Perfect today and yes he's around for sure. Funny when I asked him where specifically he is servicing he said he's got a customer in Hawaii, some in the Carolina's, Virginia, etc.. :D I guess shipping your props could be worth it depending on your situation.. As far as his coverage - he's covering the Long Island and coastal CT areas. His cell is (845) 4 three 0 - 3 seven 6 3.

Pedro, I'm not pushing Chuck on you, just didn't want Doug's mentioning of him out of business to have an ill effect. If you need a prop guy, Chuck is great and a super nice guy! He did my props in 2015.

Good luck and if you end up going forward keep us posted, especially with pictures. Any questions along the way - just ask.
Rob S.
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1974 Chris Craft 36' Commander Tournament
Cummins 6BTA 330B's

(Former Owner)
"TOY-RIFIC" 2000 28TE, 6LP, Hull 408

Luck is the residue of good design.
Pedro
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Re: cutlass bearing

Post by Pedro »

Mechanic looked at the existing cutlass bearing and shreds it's probably a safe bet to replace it now,He figures 4 hours total labor including pressing in the bearing.He was concerned there wouldnt be enough room to slide the housing off without moving the rudder out of the way?
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Re: cutlass bearing

Post by Jeremyvmd »

Mine came off with creative turning of the wheel
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RobS
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Re: cutlass bearing

Post by RobS »

The 4 bolts at the base of the rudder (shoe) can be removed in minutes allowing the bottom of the rudder to swing to the side. You can then check the shoe bearing too.
Rob S.
"TENACIOUS"
1974 Chris Craft 36' Commander Tournament
Cummins 6BTA 330B's

(Former Owner)
"TOY-RIFIC" 2000 28TE, 6LP, Hull 408

Luck is the residue of good design.
Pedro
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Home Port: Groton Ct

Re: cutlass bearing

Post by Pedro »

Good to know,I thought I saw that trick in one of the past posts,(probably yours) so I am considering that the next step if the housing doesn't come right off..
Pedro
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Re: cutlass bearing

Post by Pedro »

Update,I took the easy way out and my mechanic tackle this,once they got it off turns out there was some corrosion on the tailpiece of the bearing housing, my machine shop bored it out and replaced the small section of pipe that is pressed in, the prop was scanned and tuned and put back into perfect shape it looked fine ran fine but was bent, I look forward to seeing if I feel the difference. One question, should use the petit metal antifouling on the stern housing as well as the prop?
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RobS
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Re: cutlass bearing

Post by RobS »

Yes. Also make sure the two cooling holes through the stern bearing housing and the cutlass bearing I've been drilled through.
Rob S.
"TENACIOUS"
1974 Chris Craft 36' Commander Tournament
Cummins 6BTA 330B's

(Former Owner)
"TOY-RIFIC" 2000 28TE, 6LP, Hull 408

Luck is the residue of good design.
whwells
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Re: cutlass bearing

Post by whwells »

Yes, do it before it begins to shake and be a real problem. If in doubt it is time and great preventive maintenance.
Howard
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Re: cutlass bearing

Post by Serenity »

Rob, in regard to the two cooling holes, are they supposed to weep?
Max
Serenity 98 28TE
East Islip, Long Island, New York
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