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cutlass bearing

Engines, Electric, Plumbing, etc.

Moderator: Jeremyvmd

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Pedro
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Home Port: Groton Ct

cutlass bearing

Post by Pedro »

I have no issues but,,,, how do you know when it's time to replace the cutlass bearing?
Mark Deeser
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Re: cutlass bearing

Post by Mark Deeser »

Had boat out for bottom paint, put 2x4 under prop and lifted up, shaft moved up and down and said clunk clunk.
Pedro
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Re: cutlass bearing

Post by Pedro »

So, How much fun was it to replace? Did you pay the yard or do it yourself. Pete
Jeremyvmd
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Re: cutlass bearing

Post by Jeremyvmd »

Pressing the old bearing out is the worst part. I used the split and fold method where you cut a lengthwise slit in the bearing and fold it in on itself. To put the new bearing in I carefully pressed it half way in using a floor Jack and some wood blocks, then used my 20t log splitter the rest of the way (very slowly and carefully). We were told at time of survey it needed to be replaced, and we could tell when we would reverse it there would be a vibration (very mild) and after we replaced it the vibration went away
1989 Viking 45C “Knot Crazy”
1998 Albin 28te "Shady Lady" *sold*
1999 seagull nautico 19 "Purrrspective" *sold*
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Tree
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Re: cutlass bearing

Post by Tree »

I removed mine in the lathe. No matter how much I tried that wasn't shifting. Simply machined the bearing out to the bore size and fitted a new one under a fly press.
Pedro
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Re: cutlass bearing

Post by Pedro »

I want to check both the cutlass bearing and shaft at layup, cutlass bearing appears good, just no idea when if ever it was done, no issues seems tight when I try to wiggle shaft,
Shaft seal packing has not been touched by me in 3 seasons, not sure what the pm interval is? It drips at rest but just a drip every 20 seconds I guess.
special k
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Re: cutlass bearing

Post by special k »

pedro the bearing housing will slide off the shaft after removing prop. i used a marine machine shop right in downtown groton whose name escapes me right now. rte 1 close to thames....he even lent me his prop puller fwiw
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Pitou
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Re: cutlass bearing

Post by Pitou »

special k wrote:pedro the bearing housing will slide off the shaft after removing prop. i used a marine machine shop right in downtown groton whose name escapes me right now. rte 1 close to thames....he even lent me his prop puller fwiw

I did the same as I had 2 symptoms on my 28:

1). slight deck vibration
2). a little play in the shaft when moving the prop side to side

I removed the stern bearing housing and brought it to the local prop shop who pressed out the old cutlass and pressed in the new.
Stern Bearing Housing.jpg
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kevinS
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Former Boats:

- 2006 31TE / Hull# 221
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- 2002 / 28TE / Hull# 614
Cummins 6BTA 370 hp / Alaskan Bulkhead
April '04 ~ May '13
Pedro
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Re: cutlass bearing

Post by Pedro »

Boat was hauled yesterday,pried up on the prop with a 2x4 and only a slight bit of movement up and down, ends of the rubber look ok no real separation so I'm guessing I can go another season at least with this cutlass bearing, no vibration or noise in either forward or reverse,
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RobS
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Re: cutlass bearing

Post by RobS »

Pedro, What is the history of the cutlass bearing? If unknown consider it overdue.

Remember, preventative maintenance is performed while things are still working to PREVENT failure and downtime.

Can you remove the prop and post a good picture or two?
Rob S.
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Luck is the residue of good design.
Jeremyvmd
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Re: cutlass bearing

Post by Jeremyvmd »

I'm with rob I would say if you have the time and the boat is out. I would replace it. The bearing is cheap, it's a little work yes but it's worth doing to be sure it's up to snuff
1989 Viking 45C “Knot Crazy”
1998 Albin 28te "Shady Lady" *sold*
1999 seagull nautico 19 "Purrrspective" *sold*
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jleonard
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Re: cutlass bearing

Post by jleonard »

Pedro wrote:Boat was hauled yesterday,pried up on the prop with a 2x4 and only a slight bit of movement up and down, ends of the rubber look ok no real separation so I'm guessing I can go another season at least with this cutlass bearing, no vibration or noise in either forward or reverse,
You should NOT pry on the prop. Very easy to bend a blade ever so slightly and then you'll have problems.
Only hand pressure is needed to check for movement.
By prying on the prop, the movement you are detecting might be because you are deflecting (bending) the shaft.
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RobS
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Re: cutlass bearing

Post by RobS »

Good point Jay, yes be careful putting pressure on the prop. Like when chocking the prop to hold it for tightening, do it as tight to the hub as possible, never out far on the blades.
Rob S.
"TENACIOUS"
1974 Chris Craft 36' Commander Tournament
Cummins 6BTA 330B's

(Former Owner)
"TOY-RIFIC" 2000 28TE, 6LP, Hull 408

Luck is the residue of good design.
Pedro
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Joined: Fri Aug 28, 2015 8:07 pm
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Re: cutlass bearing

Post by Pedro »

I've owned the boat for three seasons and I have no idea when it was changed last,
After all the advice,,,,
I'll get it done now while boat is out of the water and send the prop out to be balanced,
Jay I was definitely not bending the shaft,I was just nugdging ever so slightly but I agree I don't want to tweek my perfectly good prop, but I think I'll send it to the local prop shop to get balanced or whatever they do to Inboard board boat props, my old I/o aluminum props need reconditiong every couple of seasons,,
Jeremyvmd
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Re: cutlass bearing

Post by Jeremyvmd »

Good idea on getting the prop check while it's off too. Just FYI I deleted your duplicate posts at the end there just to clean up the thread...
1989 Viking 45C “Knot Crazy”
1998 Albin 28te "Shady Lady" *sold*
1999 seagull nautico 19 "Purrrspective" *sold*
Native watercraft prostaff
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