Winterizing a 1976 Albin-25 with her original MD17C Diesel?

[NickScheuer]

Everything I read about Winterization, including Collins' 2015 thread below, concerns engines having closed loop-cooling systems. I'm inquiring about my old seawater-cooled Volvo-Penta MD17C. I once ran my boat's engine on the hard (on her trailer) for her first Springtime pre-launch test by disconnecting the thru-hull inlet hose and feeding it from a bucket filled by a garden hose. Will the same procedure work with pink antifreeze, provided I run enough anti-freeze through the motor is insure the discharge out through the transom is 100% antifreeze?

I've changed rubber coolant pump impellers before, so installing a new one next season is no prob. (I'm told anti-freeze can ruin a rubber impeller)

This is only our 4th season with the Albin-25 and I've always used a marina's services for winterization. Problem is, they are located 100 miles from home, and they charge at least $85/hr for labor.

A friend says his engine costs enough for him to consider a Marina's services downright cheap. Another friend somehow got water in his cylinders (gasoline) last winter, so now he has a new engine. ("ouch"!)

I've also changed engine and transmission oil in the past, so that is no problem at all using the customary a suction pump designed to suck up the used oil through the dipstick tube, after the motor has warmed up during the coolant change..

The potable water tank is not an issue as we use bottled water only on cruises.

My batteries reside in the house over the winter, with frequent charging.

Part of switching to a power boat after a lifetime of sailing is learning how to maintain our big'ol green Diesel myself, and I figure this winterization stuff isn't rocket science, eh?

The bilge and associated pumps are dry over the winter.

[jleonard]

Your plan for winterizing the engine will work. I had a raw water cooled gas engine and did the same thing.
The rubber impeller will be fine but If it's more than 2 or 3 years old I'd replace it.
If your batteries are fully charged they will last all winter without recharging, but trickle charging them won't hurt.
You sound like you are fully capable of doing what the marina charges and arm and leg for. It's called "quality bilge time".

[Carl]

There are different types of potable anti-freeze that will not harm rubber, or are recommended for engines. Hit the link below.




http://newcontent.westmarine.com/conten ... 136_V5.pdf

[WillieC]

Thank you, Carl. Once again why I belong here.

[RobS]

....provided I run enough anti-freeze through the motor is insure the discharge out through the transom is 100% antifreeze?

How do you plan on doing that? With a refractometer? I use the Extech RF40. Simple, and fun actually!