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Underwater Lights
- DougSea
- Gold Member
- Posts: 2762
- Joined: Tue Jun 13, 2006 9:45 am
- Home Port: Safe Harbor - Essex Island Marina, Essex, CT
- Location: Essex, Connecticut
Underwater Lights
So, for a while now I've wanted to mount underwater lights on our boat. In fact, I wanted them on Sonny III but I just couldn't justify the cost.
Recently I came across a write up on Lumitec Lighting's SeaBlaze 3 LED lights that was pretty decent. And I had seen them in displays at the big West Marine up in Old Saybrook and liked the construction and heft of the lights. Very reasonably priced. On top of that they're US designed AND manufactured. Bonus!
So anyway, I decided to give them a try. Since Sonny IV is currently sitting on the hard, awaiting a rebuilt engine (you'll have to wait for that story!) I decided to go ahead and install a pair. I choose their SeaBlaze 3 Blue/white light. I went with this one because the white should work well when we're in clearer waters such as BI and LIS in the cooler months, and the blue is said to penetrate our normal murkier waters. You cycle through the colors, white, blue, both, by just flicking them off and back on quickly.
For spacing I decide to measure for 4 lights, but to just install two for now. That way I can increase the brightness if I think it's needed, but keep my costs down for now. And by measuring for all 4 now I can be sure everything will be spaced out properly.
At home I'm a measure twice, cut once kind of guy. On the boat it's measure 4 or 5 times, then think about it, then check again! I wanted to make sure I'd have no issues with stringers, wires, hoses, etc. I found that for me, setting the two first lights (I did the inner pair) at 22" apart on the centerline would work well and let me mount the outer pair an additional 22" from each of those. The lights will be ~9" underwater at normal trim.
Once the measuring and marking was all done the installation was very simple. The lights need a 1/2 center hole for the wire and then 3 small perimeter holes for the mounting screws. So I drilled a small pilot hole and made sure it was where I expected. I drilled out the center hole, and then used the fixture as a template for the mounting screw holes. The lights come with plastic insulators so that the stainless screws don't react with the aluminum body, and I used those to center a bit and make the initial marks for the (smaller) holes for the #10 screws.
Here's the port side mount location:
And here's the bit in the sleeve. I taped the bit so it wouldn't cut the plastic. Also, this bit is too large for the #10 screws, so the tape helps make sure I didn't go too deep! Just through the gelcoat.
A little more work and I had both sides ready to go:
Since the lamps are aluminum they're not supposed to be covered or touching non-aluminum safe bottom paint. Plus I wanted the 4200 to adhere well to the hull, so I sanded down to bare glass.
Then smear on a bunch of 4200. I put some on the center hole, which is a snug fit, a large donut of it around the center post, and some at each screw location.
Then you just tighten down the screws until 4200 comes out all around the edges. One it's cured I'll give the screws a final quarter turn and I should be good to launch.
Here's the finished product:
Hoping to do the wiring tomorrow. And of course, we'll just have to wait a while for the in water test.
Recently I came across a write up on Lumitec Lighting's SeaBlaze 3 LED lights that was pretty decent. And I had seen them in displays at the big West Marine up in Old Saybrook and liked the construction and heft of the lights. Very reasonably priced. On top of that they're US designed AND manufactured. Bonus!
So anyway, I decided to give them a try. Since Sonny IV is currently sitting on the hard, awaiting a rebuilt engine (you'll have to wait for that story!) I decided to go ahead and install a pair. I choose their SeaBlaze 3 Blue/white light. I went with this one because the white should work well when we're in clearer waters such as BI and LIS in the cooler months, and the blue is said to penetrate our normal murkier waters. You cycle through the colors, white, blue, both, by just flicking them off and back on quickly.
For spacing I decide to measure for 4 lights, but to just install two for now. That way I can increase the brightness if I think it's needed, but keep my costs down for now. And by measuring for all 4 now I can be sure everything will be spaced out properly.
At home I'm a measure twice, cut once kind of guy. On the boat it's measure 4 or 5 times, then think about it, then check again! I wanted to make sure I'd have no issues with stringers, wires, hoses, etc. I found that for me, setting the two first lights (I did the inner pair) at 22" apart on the centerline would work well and let me mount the outer pair an additional 22" from each of those. The lights will be ~9" underwater at normal trim.
Once the measuring and marking was all done the installation was very simple. The lights need a 1/2 center hole for the wire and then 3 small perimeter holes for the mounting screws. So I drilled a small pilot hole and made sure it was where I expected. I drilled out the center hole, and then used the fixture as a template for the mounting screw holes. The lights come with plastic insulators so that the stainless screws don't react with the aluminum body, and I used those to center a bit and make the initial marks for the (smaller) holes for the #10 screws.
Here's the port side mount location:
And here's the bit in the sleeve. I taped the bit so it wouldn't cut the plastic. Also, this bit is too large for the #10 screws, so the tape helps make sure I didn't go too deep! Just through the gelcoat.
A little more work and I had both sides ready to go:
Since the lamps are aluminum they're not supposed to be covered or touching non-aluminum safe bottom paint. Plus I wanted the 4200 to adhere well to the hull, so I sanded down to bare glass.
Then smear on a bunch of 4200. I put some on the center hole, which is a snug fit, a large donut of it around the center post, and some at each screw location.
Then you just tighten down the screws until 4200 comes out all around the edges. One it's cured I'll give the screws a final quarter turn and I should be good to launch.
Here's the finished product:
Hoping to do the wiring tomorrow. And of course, we'll just have to wait a while for the in water test.
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Doug
Sonny IV
2006 35TE Convertible, Volvo D6-370's
Former owner - Sonny III, 1997 28TE with "The BEAST"
Sonny IV
2006 35TE Convertible, Volvo D6-370's
Former owner - Sonny III, 1997 28TE with "The BEAST"
-
- Gold Member
- Posts: 2115
- Joined: Fri Sep 22, 2006 7:35 am
- Home Port: Mystic, CT
- Location: New Port Richey, FL
Re: Underwater Lights
So many of the Canadian boats here have underwater leds it's insane. Blue is the most popular color. Plus blue led cabin and running lights. I don, t think the blue running lights would be us cg approved, but the way i read the Canadian rules any extra lighting is ok.
Formerly
1983 40 Albin trunk cabin
Attitude Adjustment
Mystic, CT
1983 40 Albin trunk cabin
Attitude Adjustment
Mystic, CT
- DougSea
- Gold Member
- Posts: 2762
- Joined: Tue Jun 13, 2006 9:45 am
- Home Port: Safe Harbor - Essex Island Marina, Essex, CT
- Location: Essex, Connecticut
Re: Underwater Lights
Supposedly blue, with it's shorter wavelength, is supposed to penetrate murky water better. I hope to validate this soon!
I took a couple of quick pictures Monday night after I finished the preliminary wiring.
In both photos both the white and blue LEDs are on.
I took a couple of quick pictures Monday night after I finished the preliminary wiring.
In both photos both the white and blue LEDs are on.
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Doug
Sonny IV
2006 35TE Convertible, Volvo D6-370's
Former owner - Sonny III, 1997 28TE with "The BEAST"
Sonny IV
2006 35TE Convertible, Volvo D6-370's
Former owner - Sonny III, 1997 28TE with "The BEAST"
-
- Gold Member
- Posts: 71
- Joined: Sun Apr 24, 2011 5:29 am
- Home Port: Jamestown, RI
Re: Underwater Lights
Doug,
I added underwater lights this year for squid fishing. Then I promptly left town on business and missed the squid run.
That said, the lights expose the incredible life that floats beneath the boat. It's great fun to watch.
I added underwater lights this year for squid fishing. Then I promptly left town on business and missed the squid run.
That said, the lights expose the incredible life that floats beneath the boat. It's great fun to watch.
Zero PSI and Zero PSII
2006 28TE FD, Yanmar
2004 31TE, Twin Yanmars
Jamestown, RI
2006 28TE FD, Yanmar
2004 31TE, Twin Yanmars
Jamestown, RI
- DougSea
- Gold Member
- Posts: 2762
- Joined: Tue Jun 13, 2006 9:45 am
- Home Port: Safe Harbor - Essex Island Marina, Essex, CT
- Location: Essex, Connecticut
Re: Underwater Lights
What did you install? These were very simple (as long as you're willing to drill underwater holes in your boat!! )
There's a boat at the yacht club across the channel from my marina that left theirs on one night last year. I was pulling in and just had to stop and watch. It's amazing.
Hoping for the same experience off of our stern!
There's a boat at the yacht club across the channel from my marina that left theirs on one night last year. I was pulling in and just had to stop and watch. It's amazing.
Hoping for the same experience off of our stern!
Doug
Sonny IV
2006 35TE Convertible, Volvo D6-370's
Former owner - Sonny III, 1997 28TE with "The BEAST"
Sonny IV
2006 35TE Convertible, Volvo D6-370's
Former owner - Sonny III, 1997 28TE with "The BEAST"
- RobS
- Gold Member
- Posts: 4044
- Joined: Wed Oct 03, 2007 6:20 am
- Home Port: Center Moriches, NY
- Contact:
Re: Underwater Lights
Which you probably would have done whether she was on the hard or in her slip.DougSea wrote:.... (as long as you're willing to drill underwater holes in your boat!! ....!
I don't know if I recall there being no swim platform..
Rob S.
"TENACIOUS"
1974 Chris Craft 36' Commander Tournament
Cummins 6BTA 330B's
(Former Owner)
"TOY-RIFIC" 2000 28TE, 6LP, Hull 408
Luck is the residue of good design.
"TENACIOUS"
1974 Chris Craft 36' Commander Tournament
Cummins 6BTA 330B's
(Former Owner)
"TOY-RIFIC" 2000 28TE, 6LP, Hull 408
Luck is the residue of good design.
- DougSea
- Gold Member
- Posts: 2762
- Joined: Tue Jun 13, 2006 9:45 am
- Home Port: Safe Harbor - Essex Island Marina, Essex, CT
- Location: Essex, Connecticut
Re: Underwater Lights
RobS wrote:Which you probably would have done whether she was on the hard or in her slip.DougSea wrote:.... (as long as you're willing to drill underwater holes in your boat!! ....!
Even I tend to draw the line at holes BELOW the water line while in the water. Although, it I could get the drill into some kind of bag...hmmm.
No platform. I thought it would be the first thing I'd add, but it's really not a problem. Did add a good ladder that can be deployed from the water. It's stowed in the pictures, but the bracket is just below the transom door.RobS wrote:I don't know if I recall there being no swim platform..
Doug
Sonny IV
2006 35TE Convertible, Volvo D6-370's
Former owner - Sonny III, 1997 28TE with "The BEAST"
Sonny IV
2006 35TE Convertible, Volvo D6-370's
Former owner - Sonny III, 1997 28TE with "The BEAST"
- DougSea
- Gold Member
- Posts: 2762
- Joined: Tue Jun 13, 2006 9:45 am
- Home Port: Safe Harbor - Essex Island Marina, Essex, CT
- Location: Essex, Connecticut
Re: Underwater Lights
Since I know you're all just dying to see some "action" photos of the new lights:
I'm quite pleased with the lights. In modestly clear water they light up an are at least 10-15 feet behind the boat. In clear Block Island waters in October I could see the bottom nearly 30 feet away. Haven't decided if I'll just stick with the two or go for four.
I'm quite pleased with the lights. In modestly clear water they light up an are at least 10-15 feet behind the boat. In clear Block Island waters in October I could see the bottom nearly 30 feet away. Haven't decided if I'll just stick with the two or go for four.
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Doug
Sonny IV
2006 35TE Convertible, Volvo D6-370's
Former owner - Sonny III, 1997 28TE with "The BEAST"
Sonny IV
2006 35TE Convertible, Volvo D6-370's
Former owner - Sonny III, 1997 28TE with "The BEAST"
-
- Gold Member
- Posts: 50
- Joined: Fri Jan 11, 2013 7:13 pm
- Home Port: Ct
Re: Underwater Lights
I'll be adding Underwater lights this off-season. I'll probably go with the ones sold by Coastal Lights.
- Tree
- Gold Member
- Posts: 1615
- Joined: Fri Mar 22, 2013 12:28 pm
- Home Port: Portsmouth, UK
- Location: Bordon, UK
- Contact:
Re: Underwater Lights
I'm liking this!
Fisher Price 2
Hull Number AUL28489L900
Yanmar 6LP-STE
Built in Portsmouth RI, USA - Berthed in Portsmouth Hampshire, United Kingdom.
Hull Number AUL28489L900
Yanmar 6LP-STE
Built in Portsmouth RI, USA - Berthed in Portsmouth Hampshire, United Kingdom.
-
- Gold Member
- Posts: 1230
- Joined: Mon Dec 27, 2010 10:20 pm
- Home Port: Anacortes Marina, Anacortes, Wa
- Location: Trinidad, Ca.. & Tahoe Vista, Ca.
Re: Underwater Lights
Doug: You did a really fine job and we all appreciate your pictures and comments for anything we might consider.
Would be great to have them on Nibbles. Any cutting and drilling below water level worries me, but you have covered all the bases. Should be lots of enjoyment for next season.
whwells "Howard
2006 35te Sportfisher/Flybridge
2004 Osprey 22
Would be great to have them on Nibbles. Any cutting and drilling below water level worries me, but you have covered all the bases. Should be lots of enjoyment for next season.
whwells "Howard
2006 35te Sportfisher/Flybridge
2004 Osprey 22
- RobS
- Gold Member
- Posts: 4044
- Joined: Wed Oct 03, 2007 6:20 am
- Home Port: Center Moriches, NY
- Contact:
Re: Underwater Lights
Was the transom solid or cored?
Rob S.
"TENACIOUS"
1974 Chris Craft 36' Commander Tournament
Cummins 6BTA 330B's
(Former Owner)
"TOY-RIFIC" 2000 28TE, 6LP, Hull 408
Luck is the residue of good design.
"TENACIOUS"
1974 Chris Craft 36' Commander Tournament
Cummins 6BTA 330B's
(Former Owner)
"TOY-RIFIC" 2000 28TE, 6LP, Hull 408
Luck is the residue of good design.
- DougSea
- Gold Member
- Posts: 2762
- Joined: Tue Jun 13, 2006 9:45 am
- Home Port: Safe Harbor - Essex Island Marina, Essex, CT
- Location: Essex, Connecticut
Re: Underwater Lights
Solid. Which made things a lot easier!RobS wrote:Was the transom solid or cored?
I had my West System there if I'd needed it, but I was able to just drill the holes and go.
If you click on the top two photos you can see the structure of the transom through the large hole.
Doug
Sonny IV
2006 35TE Convertible, Volvo D6-370's
Former owner - Sonny III, 1997 28TE with "The BEAST"
Sonny IV
2006 35TE Convertible, Volvo D6-370's
Former owner - Sonny III, 1997 28TE with "The BEAST"