Lift Adjustment for 28TE Need Help

[JIMBO44]

This from Jimbo44, Port St Lucie Fl. Am happy new Albin owner of 28TE, 1994, Engine Box. Picked up Matter of Time in Daytona Beach, Fl last week, with Admiral on board sailed her 162.5 miles to home Inlet of Stuart, Fl then to St Lucie River and to home dock in Port St Lucie on said River. Very busy settling her in but will send pics and trip log next week.

I have a good existing 16K lift, plan on installing good 12 in. marine bunks, need help with placement and sizing of risers that will hold new bunks. Hull#AUL28154D4 applies. Beam is shown as 9.9', engine is Yanmar 170HP. Lateral support beams are currently 10' in length and correctly sized for 16K lift. Main reason for questions are hull impact; i.e. placement with regard to Center-of-Gravity and the 28 TE Hull. Help Pls want to get her out of the salt.

Regards to all.

JIMBO44

[DougSea]

Hey Jim,

Congratulations on the new boat!

She should have Sling markers that would show you the proper placement of the bunks. When we had our 28 and she was stored on the hard for the winter the forward blocking was about 2' back of the thruster and the rear was just forward of the skeg.

The hull form below the waterline should be the same for any engine box model so if you can find one you should be able to take measurements that would match yours.

[JIMBO44]

Doug,
thank you very much, went in the back yard looked at the sling marks and said "Yeah". You are correct of course, and the remaining question is the hull form, I am in warm Florida with no nearby Albin so perhaps i will just have to go in the water with a tape. Thank you for your support.

Jim

Matter of Time
1994 28TE, Yanmar 170

[RobS]

Here's something to get you started

[N4QC]

Jim:

Would you please clarify the term “lateral support beam”. Is this the I beam that runs fore to aft, or port to starboard?

There are many variables that go into the placement of the bunk boards on a lift. The drawing provided by RobS will give you some idea as to the placement of the bunk boards in relation to the hull - mainly center line values. For my 24 Getaway, I measured the distance between the stringers in the engine compartment and noted where the thru-hull fittings were and came up with a rough estimate as to the distance between the top of the bunk boards. The spacing at the bottom of the bunk boards is greater due to the angle of the risers.

The relationship of the center line of the boat to the lift was a function of how close to the side of the dock I wanted the boat. I took into consideration the guide poles, lift motor housing and the cable connecting assembly of the various lift beams.

It took a couple of adjustments to get it the way I wanted.

The sling marker that DougSea pointed out is a good reference point. You do not want the skeg to hit the aft I beam. I’ve established a reference point between the sling marker and a guide pole that tells me where to stop the loading of the boat on to the lift. Been meaning to place a bumper on the aft I beam to help protect the skeg in case of an over shoot…

Once you are happy that the lift is supporting your boat keep in mind that due to the profile of the keel that the lift may have to be lowered more than one would think in order to clear the aft I beam. Another mark on a guide pole for this situation comes in handy.

Hope this helps,

[JIMBO44]

To: Robs and N4QC, Your assistance will put us in business here, I am very grateful, by the way the terminilogy i was referring to "Lateral support beam" was to identify the Fore and Aft Beams, i just looked at them differently than you ( I am left-handed). The engineering drawing is priceless is exactly what is needed. Next question my dock guy asked was the dead rise at the bow, as the bunks can't be tapered he is trying to set an initial entry angle for fitting the boat. The transom drawing dimension looks to be the key.

When I was looking for another boat my old salt neighbor pointed me to Albin and shared the opinion the the AOG was the best group in boating, I believe him.
Best Regards,

Jimbo44

[RobS]

...and shared the opinion the the AOG was the best group in boating, I believe him.

Hands down, no doubt about it!

[JIMBO44]

Review of the Engineering Drawing indicates the Dear Rise at the Transom to be 11.5 degrees, Rob S. do you concur, this for bevel on bunks.

Jimbo44

[RobS]

Review of the Engineering Drawing indicates the Dear Rise at the Transom to be 11.5 degrees, Rob S. do you concur, this for bevel on bunks.

Jimbo44

No, that is 11 1/2 inches of height from the hull centerline at the transom up to the water line. Deadrise at the transom is 16 degrees. Probably mid 20's under the pilothouse area...

[JIMBO44]

Rob, Thank you, obviously my fingers got mixed up with the "dearrise" rather than "deadrise. I am putting on the lift tomorrow morning at high tide with a couple of good dock guys and will send news. I have about 3 feet of tidal change so that is why i am trying to use so much care. With the anticipated 3.2 ft needed to get off I will need to be at high tide or close to it to get on and off lift.

Regards and much thanks to all.

[DougSea]

So your lift doesn't go low enough to get off at low tide?

[JIMBO44]

Rob,That is right, cannot get off the lift at low tide due to draft of boat and available depth, lift hits bottom, answer would be dredging but that is a whole other issue. If I want to get out at low tide I have 110' of waterfront and 60 ft of dock and will have to come off at high tide and tie up at my own dock pier. Also at extreme low tide the mouth of our otherwise beautiful lagoon that leads to intracoastal has only 3.2' available at low tide. Lagoon itself has from 10-19' but not at the mouth. As it is I would not risk the prop/rudder at low tide.

[N4QC]

Jim:

I have a similar problem with my lift being able to hit bottom at low water. Be extra careful when lowering the lift as if you hit bottom you may end up spooling off the lift cables. I have marked a lift guide post with a stainless steel screw at the point that when the water level hits the screw it is no longer safe to continue lowering.

The contour of the slope of the bottom may be an aid to getting off the lift in skinny water. Keep in mind that the skeg is probably some five feet out from the dock. The lift beam is still the controlling variable. I use the following links to help determine if I need to get the boat off the lift earlier than needed and also to plan on getting the boat back on the lift. The tidesonline link plots actual verses projected. In my area it can be an extra .5 to .75 feet. Works both ways though… You should be able to find local reporting stations for your area…


http://tidesonline.nos.noaa.gov/plotcom ... rsburg,+FL

http://www.softseas.net/

As for the lagoon problem - more activity thru the area may help clear the way…

Have fun,

[halfmoon]

Perhaps someone with a trailer for a 28 could measure the trailer bunks and use that as the plan for your lift system.