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Anchor pulling machine...
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- Gold Member
- Posts: 222
- Joined: Sun Jul 07, 2013 11:23 am
- Home Port: Portland Oregon
Anchor pulling machine...
I am going to need to add an anchor puller (windlass, capstan, etc) to my 27fc and wonder about the following:
What has worked for any of you?
Do you pull everything onto the deck and then manually push it into the storage compartment?
How did you run the wiring, and what size wiring is needed?
Do you run through the batts. or can you run off the alternator?
How to operate...where goes the switches?
What if any mods. needed or do you wish you had done?
I pull 200' of 3 strand (1/2 or 5/8..not sure) and 35' of chain and 20 or 30 lb delta type anchor
Any other thoughts would be appreciated.
What has worked for any of you?
Do you pull everything onto the deck and then manually push it into the storage compartment?
How did you run the wiring, and what size wiring is needed?
Do you run through the batts. or can you run off the alternator?
How to operate...where goes the switches?
What if any mods. needed or do you wish you had done?
I pull 200' of 3 strand (1/2 or 5/8..not sure) and 35' of chain and 20 or 30 lb delta type anchor
Any other thoughts would be appreciated.
1989 Albin 27 FC w/ Isuzu 157 hp, Ford 6.0 Diesel, giant trailer
6th, and most favorite boat yet
Cruising: Columbia River Portland to Bar, San Juans, Gulf Islands,
Desolation Sound, Sunshine Coast, Broughton Islands
6th, and most favorite boat yet
Cruising: Columbia River Portland to Bar, San Juans, Gulf Islands,
Desolation Sound, Sunshine Coast, Broughton Islands
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- First Mate
- Posts: 221
- Joined: Fri Feb 22, 2013 5:12 pm
- Home Port: Biloxi MS
Re: Anchor pulling machine...
Most windlasses will directly feed the rode below as it comes up, but this can put a good deal of mud and water into your anchor well - Sometimes it's best to flake it on deck, clean it well and let it dry before you put it below
The wire size is dictated by the amp draw of the windlass motor and the length of the conductors. For example, my bow thruster which can draw more than 100 amps (it uses a 200 amp fuse) requires 3 gauge for a positive and negative wire each 15' long. 3 gauge isn't common, so I've upsized to 2 gauge for that run
The windlass will be directly hooked to the largest battery bank you have aboard, which will be receiving the output of the alternator if the engine is running. The windlass will NOT run on the output of the alternator alone. Make sure you have a fuse as near the positive battery terminal as possible
Because the motor draws so much current, it will be controlled by a solenoid which makes and breaks the high power connection. You will have a switch up on the bow near the windlass which controls the solenoid to start and stop the windlass. Usually you'll use a foot switch for control so you'll have both hands free for handling the anchor rode
I would add a raw water wash down pump so you'll have plenty of clean water to wash off the rode and chain as it comes in over the anchor roller. There are few messier jobs than cleaning mud off your anchor rode and if you don't get it clean while it's wet, it will be a crusty mess once it dries, ensuring your foredeck and anchor locker are a stinky place
If you want to deal with a 30 pound anchor and 200' of rode and chain, you should probably be looking at about a 1,000 watt windlass, minimum - Probably a $1K to $1200 project, if you can do it all yourself. I'd love to have a properly sized system on my 27, but so far it remains 6th or 8th on my list of $1K 'wants'
Don
The wire size is dictated by the amp draw of the windlass motor and the length of the conductors. For example, my bow thruster which can draw more than 100 amps (it uses a 200 amp fuse) requires 3 gauge for a positive and negative wire each 15' long. 3 gauge isn't common, so I've upsized to 2 gauge for that run
The windlass will be directly hooked to the largest battery bank you have aboard, which will be receiving the output of the alternator if the engine is running. The windlass will NOT run on the output of the alternator alone. Make sure you have a fuse as near the positive battery terminal as possible
Because the motor draws so much current, it will be controlled by a solenoid which makes and breaks the high power connection. You will have a switch up on the bow near the windlass which controls the solenoid to start and stop the windlass. Usually you'll use a foot switch for control so you'll have both hands free for handling the anchor rode
I would add a raw water wash down pump so you'll have plenty of clean water to wash off the rode and chain as it comes in over the anchor roller. There are few messier jobs than cleaning mud off your anchor rode and if you don't get it clean while it's wet, it will be a crusty mess once it dries, ensuring your foredeck and anchor locker are a stinky place
If you want to deal with a 30 pound anchor and 200' of rode and chain, you should probably be looking at about a 1,000 watt windlass, minimum - Probably a $1K to $1200 project, if you can do it all yourself. I'd love to have a properly sized system on my 27, but so far it remains 6th or 8th on my list of $1K 'wants'
Don
- tego
- Gold Member
- Posts: 454
- Joined: Thu May 09, 2013 2:22 pm
- Home Port: Cherokee Resort and Marina - Tellico River near Vonore, TN
- Location: Maryville, TN
Re: Anchor pulling machine...
Coolchange, The Lewmar 700 series is more than enough for our size vessel. I would switch to 8 strand plaited rode though, because it occupies about half the space of 3 strand and doesn't hockle. It also works better in the gypsy. I run 200 feet of 1/2" 8 strand and 50 feet of 5/16 HT chain and have had no problems with kinking etc. I use the windlass to run up to the anchor and then put a turn of the rode around a hefty cleat (or your bollard if you still have it) and keeping tension on it, let the bobbing of the boat bring it out of the bottom- especially if you've been on the hook there for a couple of days, where the anchor is buried deep in the bottom. I use a 22 lb Bruce, and it can go pretty deep. I use a separate battery for the windlass, which is up under the "V" berth ( shorter lines for the heavy current draw). My regular 3-bank charger takes care of it, with 10 gauge leads to the battery from the charger. The boat seems to ride better with the extra weight up there too. Ben
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- Gold Member
- Posts: 222
- Joined: Sun Jul 07, 2013 11:23 am
- Home Port: Portland Oregon
Re: Anchor pulling machine...
thanks for the answers...any more?
I like the change of anchor line...I did that on a previous and it was a very worthwhile investment...and it would surely go into the "locker" a lot easier than the stiff 3 strand.
I like the change of anchor line...I did that on a previous and it was a very worthwhile investment...and it would surely go into the "locker" a lot easier than the stiff 3 strand.
1989 Albin 27 FC w/ Isuzu 157 hp, Ford 6.0 Diesel, giant trailer
6th, and most favorite boat yet
Cruising: Columbia River Portland to Bar, San Juans, Gulf Islands,
Desolation Sound, Sunshine Coast, Broughton Islands
6th, and most favorite boat yet
Cruising: Columbia River Portland to Bar, San Juans, Gulf Islands,
Desolation Sound, Sunshine Coast, Broughton Islands
- smacksman
- Gold Member
- Posts: 241
- Joined: Thu Feb 05, 2015 2:24 pm
- Home Port: Sold in New Orleans
- Location: UK
- Contact:
Re: Anchor pulling machine...
Free State has all 3/8" chain which I prefer as it gives you a small turning circle matching other yachts on chain in an anchorage. Length a lot more than the 40 foot max I have had to use. Three times depth works well and I usually anchor in under 10 feet in America.
She came with a deck wash which works well, even if a bit crude. A nice pump/strainer set up below the V berth running to a deck outlet then a bit of hose tied to the pulpit rail aimed at the bow roller so the water runs down the chain.
She has a Simpson Lawrence Anchorman manual windlass which is supposed to self stow. I found that it usually stowed ok but jammed when running out. There is NOTHING worse than jamming when running out! You spend time picking exactly the right spot to anchor - go forward to drop the hook - the chain gets a twist and it jams. The wind and/or current blows you off your chosen spot by the time you un-jam it, so you haul it in on deck and go back to the helm and start all over again. As I anchored almost every night I left the chain on deck, flaking it down as I hauled it in by hand. Much quicker and no great effort with such light tackle. Only in quite rough weather in the Gulf did the chain wander around on deck. On rare occasions I had to take a turn round the windlass and gently motor out the anchor.
Personally I would spend your money on something more important than an electric windlass or in fact ANY windlass. A nice big hawse pipe on deck and a samson post is fool proof.
Deckwash hose and chain on deck
She came with a deck wash which works well, even if a bit crude. A nice pump/strainer set up below the V berth running to a deck outlet then a bit of hose tied to the pulpit rail aimed at the bow roller so the water runs down the chain.
She has a Simpson Lawrence Anchorman manual windlass which is supposed to self stow. I found that it usually stowed ok but jammed when running out. There is NOTHING worse than jamming when running out! You spend time picking exactly the right spot to anchor - go forward to drop the hook - the chain gets a twist and it jams. The wind and/or current blows you off your chosen spot by the time you un-jam it, so you haul it in on deck and go back to the helm and start all over again. As I anchored almost every night I left the chain on deck, flaking it down as I hauled it in by hand. Much quicker and no great effort with such light tackle. Only in quite rough weather in the Gulf did the chain wander around on deck. On rare occasions I had to take a turn round the windlass and gently motor out the anchor.
Personally I would spend your money on something more important than an electric windlass or in fact ANY windlass. A nice big hawse pipe on deck and a samson post is fool proof.
Deckwash hose and chain on deck
1983 Albin 27fc 'Free State' with Lehman 4D61- now sold.
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- First Mate
- Posts: 221
- Joined: Fri Feb 22, 2013 5:12 pm
- Home Port: Biloxi MS
Re: Anchor pulling machine...
I'll second that. A 'proper' electric windlass and all that goes with it could set you back $1K or more. I'd rather have a very good GPS (Garmin 741S or equivalent) an autopilot, a Radar, a bow thruster, a high tech propeller, a tricked out head with a good shower . . . . the list goes on and on. I sailed my 34' sailboat all over the place for many years, anchoring out nearly all the time and never considered spending the $$$ for something to haul the anchor aboard - I did it manually and I was single-handing much of the time. It's not that big a deal once you find out how to do it correctlysmacksman wrote:Personally I would spend your money on something more important than an electric windlass or in fact ANY windlass. A nice big hawse pipe on deck and a samson post is fool proof.
If you feel you must have a windlass, I would budget for a good one - I's rather have none than something not up to the task
Don
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- Gold Member
- Posts: 486
- Joined: Sat Sep 06, 2014 1:11 pm
- Home Port: Port of Call Yatch Club
- Location: Astor FL on St John River
Re: Anchor pulling machine...
Coolchange, a check on advanced search will yield a lot of information, happy hunting. Thanks, Mark.
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- Gold Member
- Posts: 222
- Joined: Sun Jul 07, 2013 11:23 am
- Home Port: Portland Oregon
Re: Anchor pulling machine...
appreciating the info and advice...I have spent the past 30 years hauling my own tackle but at 70 with a shoulder that should have been replaced 10 years ago..a leg that lost an argument with an Oldsmobile in 1964, a wrist that won't bend, feet that have a hard time feeling stuff....and anchoring mostly in 30 feet or more (3-5 scope and 8-16 foot tides gets to be a pretty long line)...I want one! (and I already have all but the thruster...so far I can still park it in wind and current without too much drama)
1989 Albin 27 FC w/ Isuzu 157 hp, Ford 6.0 Diesel, giant trailer
6th, and most favorite boat yet
Cruising: Columbia River Portland to Bar, San Juans, Gulf Islands,
Desolation Sound, Sunshine Coast, Broughton Islands
6th, and most favorite boat yet
Cruising: Columbia River Portland to Bar, San Juans, Gulf Islands,
Desolation Sound, Sunshine Coast, Broughton Islands
- smacksman
- Gold Member
- Posts: 241
- Joined: Thu Feb 05, 2015 2:24 pm
- Home Port: Sold in New Orleans
- Location: UK
- Contact:
Re: Anchor pulling machine...
Haha! Sounds like me with 'bits dropping off' all the time.
As others have said above regarding batteries and big, fat cables, solenoids, fuses, etc. I would add the following from my experience.
Go for all chain and chain that is matched to the gypsy on whatever windlass you buy. If you have chain+rope then you will still have to tail on the rope by hand till you meet the chain. You would also have to feed some of the rope below deck through the hawse pipe.
Fit a deck wash and chain scrubbing brush which help to reduce the muck on deck.
Fit a hawse pipe that is about two sizes bigger than the one sized for your chain.
A Sea Tiger windlass worked well for me and an Italian one was ok too but I can't remember the name.
Position the foot switch where you can easily see the chain coming up
As others have said above regarding batteries and big, fat cables, solenoids, fuses, etc. I would add the following from my experience.
Go for all chain and chain that is matched to the gypsy on whatever windlass you buy. If you have chain+rope then you will still have to tail on the rope by hand till you meet the chain. You would also have to feed some of the rope below deck through the hawse pipe.
Fit a deck wash and chain scrubbing brush which help to reduce the muck on deck.
Fit a hawse pipe that is about two sizes bigger than the one sized for your chain.
A Sea Tiger windlass worked well for me and an Italian one was ok too but I can't remember the name.
Position the foot switch where you can easily see the chain coming up
1983 Albin 27fc 'Free State' with Lehman 4D61- now sold.