Windlass for A27

[Mark Deeser]

Hope this is correct board for this post, am fishing for ideas. Due to geriatic issues would like electric windlass for my A27, thinking 30 feet of chain, 150 feet rode, maybe 35 lbs anchor. I have looked at WM, an the reviews on their windlasses are so dismal they make me want to run for cover. Does anyone have any idea if it would be possible, and practical to make your own windlass? Thinking maybe car starter motor, protected from elements, coupled to a manual windlass. Problems I see initally is how to allow for free fall of rode, and would starter motor have a duty cycle that would allow enough time to raise anchor? Mayhapps an old motor from a tread mill would be a better option. Any ideas would be appreciated. Thanks, Mark.

[Don from Mystic]

The windlasses I am familiar with have small (perhaps a third or less the size/weight of a car starter) perm magnet motors that turn very fast. I think tread mill motors use around 90vdc. I have a "Good" brand on my 27, it was an old one that I bought used for cheap. Used Ford starter solenoids for switching and direction. Amazing how ruggedly windlasses are made. I took it down and needed to replace only one bearing - readily available. I have fashioned or worked on my share of machinery throughout my life- some pretty complex, but a windlass wouldn't be on the list. The must be a ton for sale in Fla, look around for a used one-

[Mark Deeser]

Thanks Don, I am truly mechanically declined, used may be best way for me to go. Do you have any experience with a manual windlass? Thanks, Mark

[Don from Mystic]

Also consider where the rode exits the windlass in relation to its footprint. I had to extend my bow pulpit back a tad to accommodate mine. With the small rope locker be sure you have the space to store what you envision needing.....
I have no experience with a manual windlass. Your other option may be a float and ring anchor retrieval. I'm sure a google will show it if you are not familiar with the technique

[Mark Deeser]

Thanks once again Don, I do not move around so well anymore, just looking for ways to make systems more manageably. Hoping to be able to do Great Loop, and a trip to the island off of Florida coast. Anything I can do to make this possible is for me. Thanks, Mark.

[Don from Mystic]

I wish you the best and can relate. A power windless was a necessity for me- wish I had bought one years ago. Another thing- they are quite fussy about rope type relative to pulling/jams. Defender has good sales if you decide to go new-

[Jay Knoll]

Mark

I would go with a powered windlass. We had a Simpson Lawrence on our sailboat and it was literally a pain in the back to use. I was always hunched over, to crank the anchor rode.

I think that making one is throwing good money after bad, these manufacturers have spent years developing their products, with lots of engineering support and customer feedback. Why not avail yourself of that knowledge?

Think about mostly chain, the principal downside is that you'll need a washdown system to get the crude off as you pull in the rode. With chain you can anchor with less scope and not worry about chafe on the rode. Make sure you match the gypsy on the windlass to the chain you'll be using. You'll need an snubber, but that isn't a big deal to make. With our draft we can anchor in some pretty skinny water with plenty of safety.

Then throw a small danforth type anchor in the locker with 20' or so of chain and 200' of rode and you're good to go for situations where you need two anchors.

[tego]

Mark, I've used a manual windlass for about 20 years. Both on a sail boat and on a large trawler. I like the KISS rule but unfortunately the old bod said it's time for a powered unit. I got the Simpson-Lawrence 700 and it's great. Being an inland cruiser now, it's easy to snag crud on the bottom. I had to make a new teak anchor platform for the bow, but the whole package has been a big step up. I don't think it would be smart to try to make your own windlass. If cost is an issue, Power Winch makes a unit that's decent, for the cost of one or two manufactured gears for a homebrew rig. Ben

[Marcy K]

Only thing to consider if doing this is weight of chain, 35 lb anchor and windlass on bow. We had 30' of chain and a 22 lb Lewmar plow on our 27 and it held in everything that BI could throw at us. Not sure you need to go to a 35 lb.

Marcy K
A 34 Paumanok 1986
Cataumet MA

[don123]

If you anchor using 30 to 45 feet of either 1/4 or 5/16th chain (depending on the amount of over-kill you're comfortable with) then you can usually motor up to the anchor and put the chain directly on the gypsy, so your windlass won't have to deal with that pesky rope to chain splice

I've singlehanded on a 34' sailboat for years and never felt the need for a windlass of any type. I motor up to the anchor and tie off the rode as I get directly over the anchor and then fall back in reverse and let the weight of the boat break out the anchor. Once it's free, I can haul it in manually without too much trouble

A close friend has a Simpson Lawrence Sea Tiger 555 two speed manual windlass and he anchors with an all chain rode. The 555 will pull any anchor out using low gear, but it is very time consuming. I think you'd spend $2500 or more though to get the same pulling power in an electric unit

Don

[Mark Deeser]

Thanks everyone, this is the great thing about this web site, good people with good advice. I will digest this information, hard to beat a good nights sleep when on the hook. Thanks, Mark.

[JT48348]

Mark: check your local online classifieds. They come for sale every once in a while. In my area there are manual and electric ones occasionally. I started looking when you brought up the topic. Don has good tastes. I started looking for a Seatiger manual windlass based on him mentioning the model. Days later, I scored a Seatiger 555 for pennies. Parts are still available. Should be a good winter project.

[Jay Knoll]

yeah, I had that one on my sailboat, it pulls like a mule on steroids but you'll end up looking like Quasimoto after you use it for awhile, the handle is short and you have to hunch over to operate it. I thought of fabricating a longer handle, but then you've got a big arc to swing it to get the pawl to click. It will be great if you're not using it a lot but for every day you're going to want an electric one. If I recall you're tall like me so you'll see what I mean when you use it. Frankly on our light boats it is probably overkill but it will certainly do the job if your back can handle it.

[JT48348]

Hmm came with no handle. You have a suggestion on how long it should be? I can explore fabricating one

[Jay Knoll]

See those two round fitting at the top of the picture on either side of the windlass? That is where the handle goes, one side is high speed, lower power, the other side low speed, lots of power. The handle was a bar that fit in those slots, it had a roll pin thru it to stop the bar from sliding thru the fitting, if I recall correctly it stuck out about 1/2" from the bottom of the fitting. I think it was about 24" long