slow trolling

[special k]

as a prospective 28te owner i have another question. i am a very active fisherman and much of my inshore fishing involves trolling slowly for stripers.
i am seeking a boat with the 315 yanmar engine box. how slow can i expect to be able to troll this boat? i'd like to get down to 2knots +/-.
can this be achieved without a trolling valve? which brings up another question.....

what is a trolling valve, how does it work, and how is one installed?

all info appreciated, thanks!

[Carl]

special k, Do a search on this subject, as it has been discussed many times. I had one installed on my boat at time of purchase by ZF. Without it you will not be able to get down to the 2 knots. The first thing I was told was: "Do not turn your idle down". Without it depending on tide and current, mine idles at about 4 to 6 knots. With the valve you can get down below 2. Be sure to check out the disscusions about the various cables as well.
The valve changes the pressures in the transmission, and allows the clutch discs to slip. While engaged, depending on the manufacturer, you CAN NOT exceed 1000 rpm. Doing so will fry the trans. I usually run mine around 900 rpm to get rid of the vibrations at dead idle. After about every hour I re-engage and rev the motor up to get things moving around again, and then back to trolling. Good luck with your search.

[Russell]

A trick I learned from charter captains is to tie a child's sock by a lanyard near the throttle. When you engage the trolling valve put the sock on the throttle to remind you not to move it. I use mine for stripers too and it is ideal.

[furball]

I troll at about 3-3.4 knts without a trolling valve. The rpm drops to 685-715 when I simply engage the trans. I occasionally run the rpm's to 725 and every 1/2 hr or so run the rpm's up to get oil pressure up and clear the carbon from the motor. I think there are both manual and electronic trolling valves available. The benefit of the electronic version is you don't have to worry about burning up the trans if you run up the rpm's. Down side is, it's twice the price. It's somewhere on my list of things to do..
Good luck,
John

[special k]

more questions.....is the trolling valve that is appropriate for the albin a pricey item?
sounds like it is not a do-it-yourself project. with all the details i would do to a boat to make it "my own" i don't relish the idea more $$$$.
btw... who would i contact for such a project? my local diesel boat mechanic?
i probably sound ignorant coming from outboard power.

[furball]

Nothing official but i've heard prices from 2K to 4500. I don't think the manual system is to difficult to install. A couple of hydraulic hoses and valve body. Control panel at helm and routing the control cables which I think may be the hardest part. I haven't done it so hopefully some who has can be more specific. Check with a local Yanmar dealer about the install. If they won't, they know who will.
John

[jcollins]

200.00 solution. Not as cool, but they work.

http://www.tackletour.com/reviewparatechbb48.html

[RicM]

That's big bucks for a sea anchor. I paid about $60 for mine and it works great to get you down to about 2 knots. I was worried about lugging the engine, but the tech heads at boatdiesel.com said not to worry.

[Pitou]

I did install a ZF trolling valve a couple of seasons back for the very purpose of slow trolling the tube 'n worm for stripers and the slow tuna troll. As I recall the new mechanical valve was under a $1000 and various accessories to complete the job were another $200 +/-. The electronic valve would have required new electronic shift controls which would have boosted the cost significantly.

I performed this task as a DIY and it took about a day all together so a good boat mechanic could certainly get it done in less time. Here is a link to a previous discussion. viewtopic.php?f=5&t=489

[jointventure]

I had a trolling valve installed on a ZF280 transmission by a ZF factory certified dealer/repair station. The installation included a Amott valve which is basically a thermostat that allows the tranny oil to heat up quickly from a cold start therefore allowing the plates to "slip" more efficiently. That installation was about 2K. The operation of the valve requires a verneir control cable for precise control of the speed, the cable I bought from Panish Controls for under 500 and installed myself. The valve head contains a plug for a pressure port and a electrical sensor switch which makes contact when the activating arm is engaged.I bought and installed a pressure guage with a matching sender which allows me to monitor tranny oil pressure both in and out of troll. I also installed a large (1 inch) red indicator light next to the control cable head that lights when in troll mode.
I run the engine rpm's to 850-900 before gradually dialing the valve and monitoring the knots thru the GPS - requires somewhat constant attention to maintain speed as the boat direction changes,current,wind,sea conditions vary. A simple press of the control head down instantainiously disengages the valve
All told ,less my labor, the total package was under 3K