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Bottom Preparation

Albin's "power cruisers"
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Fortunate
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Home Port: Robinhood Marina, Georgetown, ME
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Bottom Preparation

Post by Fortunate »

After 24 years, the bottom paint build up on Fortunate is getting bad. I am thinking of stripping the existing paint and starting fresh with a new coating system.

Any thoughts on the best way to strip bottom paint and what system is prefered after stripping? I have talked to a few people about soda or walnut blasting. The soda seems to be very corrosive, not sure on the walnut shells. Has anyone tried either method?
Kim Suhr
"Fortunate"
27 Family Cruiser
Robinhood Cove, Georgetown, ME
rt11002003
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Post by rt11002003 »

Kim,

Any pressure blasting will erode the surface where the materials hit. In all likelihood removing the bottom paint by blasting will also damage the gelcoat, ie. erode it. In my area, bottom paint is removed by scraping and sanding.

To the best of my knowledge soda, walnut shell and bead blasting are used to remove both the bottom paint and the gelcoat when preparing to repair extensive blistering. Perhaps a really talented person could remove paint without hurting the gelcoat.

If the gelcoat is damaged (eroded or otherwise) a good barrier coat such as Interlux is applied (multiple coats), the surface sanded until it is fair and then bottom paint applied.

By the way we used to clean jet engine compressors by dumping walnut shells into the inlet duct with engine running. We also had problems with high pressure fuel eroding parts in the fuel controls.

Gene
Gene Currently Albin "less"
Veebyes2
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Post by Veebyes2 »

Anyone tried soda blasting? I don't mind doing the annual water blasting & repainting myself. Taking it right back to gel coat is best done with a credit card. :lol: I don't have the equipment or skills to do that without risk of serious damage.
1996 A32 'S' Type
Bermuda

1986 A27AC 1986-2000
34' 5th wheel trailer
VP9KL (IRLP node #7995)
tranmkp
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I soda blasted my hull

Post by tranmkp »

It did a good job, but it was not perfect - some paint stayed - you will still need to sand down to the gelcoat - apply the hibuild sealer/epoxy, then the bottom of your choice. I have had good results with VC ofshore and Petite Vivid -

Of note - if you can swing it have the bottom sprayed - then have your prop scanned -

The results will be staggering - trust me.

Vivid is ablative and VC offshore - is a hard teflon - very thin - easy to spay and recoat.
rt11002003
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Post by rt11002003 »

The current issue of "PassageMaker" has an article on using soda.

Gene
Gene Currently Albin "less"
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Fortunate
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Post by Fortunate »

What exactly will prop scanning do for my little Albin and how much does is cost?

Did you find the soda blasting to be corrosive to any of the surrounding metal items, ie, stands, appurtances, etc?
Kim Suhr
"Fortunate"
27 Family Cruiser
Robinhood Cove, Georgetown, ME
tranmkp
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Post by tranmkp »

Its a system out there that some shops use - its another way of blue printing your prop. It cost a couple of hundred bucks to do mine. The old prop and tons of barns on it - I cleaned it off, tested it and it felt great, the next week I pulled it and sent it to the shop and also paid a little more and had it polished. I have a new driveline (stock, no aquadrive or miracle shaft setup, although it would really be nice) the difference with just the clean prop vrs the reconditioned on was ( Im thinking KY jelly here) very slippery, I dont think I go anymore top speed but the boat did seem to really respond to throttle. If you have the correct pitch for you engine gearbox setup and you r shaft is aligned, bottom really clean - thats about all you can do for these little albins. Like one guy told me, it you put in a smaller engine 27-35hp and change the prop and not worry about 12knts and be happy with 7 or 8 knts you would see a big difference in fuel consumption.

My yard used soda to minimise antifouling sanding... more of a envior req.

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PropScan® will allow our technicians to tune your propeller to the highest standards, adhering to ISO 484/2 tolerances. We will now be able to accurately measure pitch on your propellers to within .004". which means that your propeller will be repaired to a Class 1 or a Class S tolerance. Adhering to these tolerances means that your propellers, when repaired using PropScan® technology, will have less possibility of vibration, and increased efficiency.

Along with the assurances of a more accurately repaired propeller, you will receive easy to understand reports detailing your propellers measurements before, and after the repair. In addition to this report, your propellers exact dimensions will be stored in our computerized database, in the event that your propellers need repair work in the future, they can be repaired to the original specs.

How does Prop Scan® work?

As the Prop Scan probe runs over the propeller blade, sensors collect data, sending it to the computer. The computer runs the Prop Scan Reporting System, which processes the information and displays propeller inaccuracies. Prop Scan is so precise it can measure propeller pitch to within ±0.004". Prop Scan can determine inaccuracies in pitch, camber and elevations that are undetectable to the naked eye.

Prop Scan gives us the power to remove these inconsistencies, increasing the performance and comfort of your vessel.

What do I get when my prop is repaired with Prop Scan®?

All customers are given a before and after computer generated report that compares the propeller to the optimum enhanced design using the ISO 484 international standards. Additionally, the Prop Scan computer system keeps a record of all repairs. This allows the us to reproduce a propeller of the same specification every time.
pred36

Bottom Preparation

Post by pred36 »

Just had the bottom soda blaster on our 1980 classic. The soda blasting isnot as agressive as the sand blasting. We are in the process of sanding off the balance of the old barrier coat now. I would recommend sand blasting only if you want to minimize your sanding. Both can be done enviromentally friendly by tenting the bottom well.
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