27 FC trailer build

[Coonneck]

Ok the adventure begins. I’m starting a trailer build for my 27 FC. I need all the help I can get so please chime in any time. A few specs. 77 inches wide at the center of the I beams. 3 6000lb axels. No breaks PO took them off but a break axel is on order.
First question. I have seen a few trailers with the keel board slanted up to match the curvature of the hull and some simply a flat board or flat rollers. Any reason to curve it or not? Question #2 some trailers are notched at the rear so that the rudder and support are left without support. I don’t really want to cut the trailer so how do I work around this? #3 how to work around the bunks if I want to be able to use a hoist to load and unload? Any and all help will be appreciated.

[coolchange]

somewhere in the library or docs..not sure what its called there is a drawing with dimensions of the hull of a 27 fc...it is a weird bottom..I'm not sure of others but mine is a "float on" in that I back till the truck tires are at waters edge and just pull the boat forward all the way to the post and maybe one crank to snug it up. (I was lucky and found a Loadmaster triple that came from under a 28TE and only needed minor adjustments[

[tego]

The Loadmaster website has some excellent pictures of 27FC trailers. You can note the numerous vertical supports that support the vessel and allow two spaces for the travel lift straps to go under the bottom fore and aft. Just make sure your travel lift straps are under the proper lift points for our boat. Do you have a diagram for that or are your lift points marked on your boat? Ben

[Coonneck]

Yes Ben they were marked by the previous owner. I have looked at the Loadmaster trailers and they are built for war. My main objective is to be able to get the boat off the coast when the weather threatens. At most I’ll have 40 miles to move it to my property but in most cases it will be a 5 mile move to a friends property. I want to be safe but I’m not going overboard. If I see me doing road trips I’ll add to the bunk supports and add another break axel.

[real550A]

I'll be following this post, when I get back to Florida, my first task will be to obtain and fit a trailer for my 27FC. It's on blocks, 5 miles from water, and I don't anticipate having to trailer it any farther than that, in and out.
Is a 10k trailer enough for the task, or do I need to look for 12k?

[tribologist]

Consider adding spacers from square tubing to drop the rear beam if you need to follow the curvature. Avoid welding as much as you possibly can. The yield strength of welded 6061 is about 20ksi.vs 40ksi for -T6 condition.

[motthediesel]

I just (finally!) launched our boat Sunday morning, so that gave me a chance to get a shot of the modified trailer in all it's (maybe) glory.



You can't really tell from that angle, but I chose to form the center bunk to conform to the curvature of the keel. I think that spreads the load over more of the cross members that way.

I would recommend to anyone fitting a trailer to one of these boats to get the trailer under it first, then fit the bunks in place. These are quite shapely hulls, unlike most modern V hulls that have very straight buttock lines. It's not that difficult to do, this is a video of transferring a boat from trailer to blocks, but just reverse the procedure and you'll be fine.

https://youtu.be/w2uP2g2VHec

I don't really think the double bunks aft are necessary, but I did it in my case to equalize the loading on my frame "outriggers". Your trailer is of a more appropriate width and you won't need those.

Search for my "trailer fitting" thread here, you may (or may not) get some good ideas from my project.

Good luck, and if you think I can be of any help to you, please feel free to contact me directly.

Tom

[tego]

Tom, Looks great! That's the way these boats should be supported. Ben

[ssrig]

That’s an impressive looking trailer there mott!