MD17C cylinder coolant drain valve install?

[NickScheuer]

Getting ready to install the coolant drain valves after removing them last fall for "Winterization". In the past I always replaced cooling water with antifreeze, but for last Winter I drained all coolant and removed the valves for cleaning. (Thanks again to NEBULATEC for giving me two valves.) Now I am ready to reinstall those valves and asking for advice as to whether the threads should be lubricated? Or just screwed in bare metal? The valves are brass and the engine block is cast iron of course. It would seem to me that a bit of oil or grease would help insure a nicer fit. Perhaps pipe thread goop is a possibility. Perhaps bare metal (iron/brass) is best? Any worthy counsel out there?

[WillieC]

I just use a dab of Permatex aviation form-a-gasket, mainly because I have it handy and it does a good job sealing without having to bust off the brass fitting.

I also made a handy device for opening and closing these same valves. I took a 1/2", 13 TPI common hex nut and hacksawed a groove in one face of the nut about half-way through. Make it wide enough so the pin in the valve fits the groove. By using a 3/4" socket or box/open wrench, you can supply some serious torque without bending the pin. The next improvement will be to epoxy this nut into a spare 3/4" socket. THEN I could retire in style.

Also, I hated draining the forward cylinder because I could never quite catch all the AF so it dripped on the starter and pooled in the pan and just generally stunk up the boat. I took a plastic whiffle ball bat, cut off the nob and whacked a hole in the fat end, on one side, large enough to fit over the valve with its pin. With a little boat yoga and luck, I can catch all the drainage in a can placed at the skinny end of the bat way back at the aft end of the engine where I have enough room to maneuver.

I'd post pictures, but I don't have the devices at hand. (Edit: Here are pics.) The Starfleet Commander didn't appreciate my bringing the pistons to my window on the world and I don't want to hear about my greasy, stinking, yellow, hacked-up whiffle ball bat on the kitchen counter.

Click on pics if using laptop to correct orientation.

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[NickScheuer]

Thanks WillieC; didn't know whether adding something to the valve threads would help or hinder removal at a later date. I've already made a valve-opening & closing tool similar to yours. The drain tube looks like a great idea. I've got lots of odds and ends of PVC pipe and can easily add an end cap to a short length of 2" DWV and cut a hole in the side.