A27 remove handrail & paint

[Randall]

Will be refreshing cabin top paint. If I remove handrails must I also remove headliner? My wife calls my masking skills “shaky” at best. Here’s hoping for a no answer.

Randall
Albin 27FC. “Meridian”
Fort Myers, Fl.

[DCatSea]

Mine too. I'll be following this thread with bated breath. Really don't want to remove headliner either.
Your 27 looks very good. Can we get a full pic?

[motthediesel]

I don't know for sure, but I assume there are backing plates with nuts under the deck, and they can't be seen, so I guess they're hidden by the headliner?

Try rooting around here: http://motorcityboatwerks.weebly.com/albin-27fc.html

That guy must know.

[Randall]

Mine too. I'll be following this thread with bated breath. Really don't want to remove headliner either.
Your 27 looks very good. Can we get a full pic?

Here is a view from our dock in Florida.

[DCatSea]

VERY nice. I like the stainless rails. This I think means that the original wooden ones were changed some time; maybe the person who did it left you a clue.

[coolchange]

Mine was done by PO and he (probably by feel) found the exact spot(s) where the bolt/nuts were and cut ..probably with a sharp punch thing...and after the R and R used small matched color circles of same material but larger than the cutout the headliner is...pretty clean and unobtrusive. (Actually this was done for the bow hand grabs..I'll have to look and see if he did the railings too)

(EDIT: easy way to mask for me when I did the deck non-skid was to use stretchy masking (auto shop)and then with a sharp razor knife cut the tape away exactly at the ss fitting/deck..worked great. Just be sure to take the tape off while paint is still wetish) Still not rebedded.

[Ambler27FC]

I did the back rails last year. I cut holes in the headliner to access the nuts and will be patching the headliner. Feel much better knowing the core is epoxy sealed at the holes. Very curious to see where the front rail mounts are accessed - seem very close to the hull/deck joint.

[nebulatech]

easy way to mask for me when I did the deck non-skid was to use stretchy masking (auto shop)and then with a sharp razor knife cut the tape away exactly at the ss fitting/deck..worked great. Just be sure to take the tape off while paint is still wetish)

Just chiming in to agree. This is an excellent tip! I've done just this with chrome key holes on car doors. Automotive tape is a good tip too. It's made to be compatible with solvent-based urethanes and the like. Just make sure you press it down really well, running your finger back over it a second time after you put it on.

[Randall]

I’m of an age that looking down is easier than looking up. That and the idea of cutting a neat hole in the headliner are moving me to the automotive masking tape idea. Thanks for your suggestions.

Randall
Albin 27 FC “Meridian”
North Ft. Myers, Fl

[Bob Noodat]

I’m of an age that looking down is easier than looking up.

Just turn the multifocals upside down.

[WillieC]

Best thing I ever did was to get multifocals at top and bottom of lenses.
Extended my career about...ten minutes.

[sail149]

VERY nice. I like the stainless rails. This I think means that the original wooden ones were changed some time; maybe the person who did it left you a clue.

Since your wood hand rails were removed and the SS ones have wide bases and probably don't leak or feel loose like wood ones I would leave well alone.

If you had had wood hand rails on the deck , typically loose feeling by now they will probably be leaking a little and you would definatly have to remove the lining to access the nuts under. Or cut small holes and patch with something decorative. BUT unfortunately the nuts will not be accessible as they were covered in a resin mix during install and the nuts will not come off . But this did stop most leaks. You will have to remove the wood plugs in the rail and try to turn the screws that are buried 1-1/2".down.A couple might come undone , a couple will spin the nut below and one will have the head already butchered up the last will snap off , You will then spend an hour or 2 cutting ,twisting bending the screws until it finally comes off . You might try chipping or chiseling at the buried nut from below but it will probably be so stuck on the bolt will not turn . You will probably think of removing the liner for better access . If your liner is still well attached at the edges resist the urge to pull the staples and just cut tiny slits to access the nuts until you have the rail off. You might get some access via the hole for the overhead light.
So it's generally a total nightmare!
I would suggest after you have the rail off and if your lucky it's undamaged. Throw it in the trash and get some nice stainless steel ones that need no maintainance. What ever you reinstall, drill out the old or new holes and otherwise install the nuts with fender washers thru the liner or cut slits in liner to install.under liner. You might be able to install a wood cover strip by attaching it to the extra bolt coming thru the nut.
The problem with removing the liner is that it was installed in the deck before the deck was put on the hull so it is not removable.
I have photos I can post if anybody interested and not scared off by this horrible replacement job.
Oh as you are reaching under the liner wear thick gloves, you won't be able to do anything with the nuts but you might not get slivers of fiberglass in you hands or cuts from the other sharp screw points hidden by the liner!
Cheers Warren