• Welcome to https://albinowners.net, the new home of Albin Owners Group!
• You will need to log in here, and you may want to bookmark this site. If you don't remember your password, use the I forgot my password link to reset it.
• All content has been transferred from our previous site.
Contact Us if you have any questions or notice a problem. If you're not receiving our email, include a phone number where we can text you.

replacing the oil cooler

Engines, Electric, Plumbing, etc.

Moderator: Jeremyvmd

Post Reply
motthediesel
Gold Member
Gold Member
Posts: 331
Joined: Wed Sep 11, 2019 12:10 am
Home Port: Thousand Islands NY

replacing the oil cooler

Post by motthediesel »

When we sea-trialed our A27FC, one of the things I noticed was that it was leaving a visible oil sheen in the water. The engine (Lehman/Peugeot) ran great, and had good oil pressure, so I wasn't too concerned. I intended to have the injectors cleaned/rebuilt/calibrated anyway, and I was thinking that wear in those parts might account for the oil from the exhaust.

I became concerned later though when I saw that the engine had lost a quart of oil in about 3 hrs of run time. There was no blue smoke showing ever, just a bit of black on start-up, so it couldn't be burning it, where was it going? I also noticed some grey and gooey emulsified oil in the breather cap when I added oil -- water in the crankcase?

It was when I started winterizing though that I spotted what might be the culprit. The oil cooler was a nasty looking thing that showed signs of braising repairs on both ends. When I drained the water passages, no oil came out (I caught the water in a pan and examined it) but it still was highly suspect to me. I decided to remove it and pressure test the oil chamber. That turned out not to be necessary though, because when I removed the oil hoses and drained that side, it was half oil and half water that came out.

Fortunately, that is a pretty generic part, and as long as the ports are correct (in this case, 1" water hose and 3/8" NPT oil line) you're good.

Image

So for a little over $100 we're back in business. We just need a little Ford/Lehman red paint on there first. I wonder how much the PO paid to have it braised? Not money well spent I'd say.

Tom
User avatar
catalina_mike
Gold Member
Gold Member
Posts: 721
Joined: Mon Mar 09, 2015 11:20 am
Home Port: Dana Point

Re: replacing the oil cooler

Post by catalina_mike »

I would really look for corrosion in other water systems. Check the zincs! The braising was more than likely pin holes... Great solution using a off the shelf cooler!
Silverton 2007 36C
Sold - Albin 1999 28TE
SSI Instructor 13937
SDI / TDI Instructor 18172
USCG 100 Ton near coastal
motthediesel
Gold Member
Gold Member
Posts: 331
Joined: Wed Sep 11, 2019 12:10 am
Home Port: Thousand Islands NY

Re: replacing the oil cooler

Post by motthediesel »

I suspect that the cooler was leaking seawater at the cap seams, as that's where the braising was applied. It could be that they put too much heat to it and melted the silver solder on the internal tube bundle, causing the oil leak, but it's hard to say for sure.

I plan to replace the zinks as a matter of course, but the boat has spent the last 7 years in fresh water, so they're probably not too bad.

Tom
Panhdjoe
Gold Member
Gold Member
Posts: 238
Joined: Fri Feb 12, 2010 8:53 pm
Home Port: Osprey Marina, Myrtle Beach SC
Location: Columbia SC

Re: replacing the oil cooler

Post by Panhdjoe »

If you are keeping the boat in fresh water like I do check out the advantages of Aluminium anodes. I have gone with them, and my diver fully endorses them.
1983 36 classic
1995 192 Grady White w/ 150 Yamaha
2003 Boss 8'6" Dingy w/6 hp Suzuki
Post Reply

Return to “Albin Maintenance”