Winter Wrap for Sea Quill

[dkirsop]

Three years ago I decided to put a little more effort in tarping my boat for winter. Previous experience with other boats had not been good when the tarp was simply placed over top and roped down. The tarp was usually good for a single season and lots of mildew and water under the cover. I decided a simple but economical tent was needed. It had to shed water and be well vented but not blow apart in high winds. It also had to shed the million or so fir tree needles that tend to blow around here too. I noticed a comment on another thread about tarping the boat and decided to share my method for what it is worth. My tarp is now in its 3rd season with lots of life remaining.

I start by placing blocks under the keel to take some of the weight off the trailer. Some weight is still required as I rely on the outer roller bunks to stabilize the boat against wind load. I lower the tongue to place the rear keel block first, and use shims to achieve a tight fit.

Aft Keel Block.jpg

Aft Keel Block

I then raise the tongue to higher than normal to place the forward keel block and shim it into position too. Then partly lower the tongue to place the weight evenly on the fore and aft blocks. This also takes some of the stress off the trailer wheel bearings.

Fore Keel Block.jpg

Forward Keel Block

The ridge beam needs to be at least 30' long and 12' off the ground. I use 2 - 16' 2x4s for the ridge beam and a 12' long 2x4 for the forward support column.

Bow Strut.jpg

Forward Support

The photo below shows the details for construction of forward support. Note that it is held in place by the weight of the trailer tongue which rests on a block attached to the support column. Deck screws are used for all assembly. This allows for partial disassembly when removing and storing the tarp in spring.

Bow Strut Detail.jpg

Forward Support Detail

The ridge beam is spliced at the mid-support which sits on the wheel house roof and is also tied to the mast. You can see it in the Forward Ridge Beam photo.

FWD Ridge Pole.jpg

Forward Ridge Beam

The aft support column is shorter and sits upon my swim grid. It is clamped to the swim grid using blocks of wood and screws. No fasteners penetrate the swim grid. The column is also tied back to the boat using the aft mooring cleats.

Aft Strut.jpg

Aft Support Detail

Aft Strut Clamp.jpg

Aft Clamp Detail

I use a 30' long tarp, the width is either 20' or 25' (can't remember). I use the grommets it came with to fasten it in place. The fore and aft ends are simply closed using short lengths of cord and reef knots at matching grommets along each side. Longer lengths of line are used along the bottom to fasten the tarp to the trailer frame. I leave these lines permanently attached to the tarp for use each season.

Cover.jpg

Tarp in Place

When working on the boat over winter I simply untie a corner and pull it back for access. The entire process of assembly takes about 3 hours once you have fabricated the supports. When not in use I fold and roll the tarp for storage in my garden shed. The various structural elements are simply leaned against a convenient tree and left there until needed for next winter.

[DesertAlbin736]

Interesting! We only get to see what the Gulf Islands are like in summer & don't think much about what it's like up there in winter. Are you able to run a power cord out to the boat & run a heater and/or dehumidifier to keep things from freezing and prevent mold & mildew?

I notice your swim platform is almost identical to ours. Wonder if that was a factory installed option when the boats were new? Our local boating season is just starting. In fact we're headed up to the lake today for an overnight stay. Looking for a high of 28* C, overnight low of 13*C, lots of sunshine.

Still looking forward to next summer's cruise to Desolation Sound, maybe meet up? Would certainly want to catch one of the BC Albineers gatherings if possible.

Speaking of tarps, have you ever seen this tarped A25 that we spotted docked at Maple Bay in 2014?

DSCN1554.JPG

Usually when we go to the Gulf Islands we clear customs in Sidney after launching from Bellingham. Next year we're likely to launch from Blaine due to change in available truck/trailer parking options, in which case we'd clear customs at Poet's Cove after an overnight stop at Sucia Island in the San Juans in order to maximize the time available to work our way up to Comox or Campbell River.

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[dkirsop]

I have a power cord and keep a heater fan in both cabins through winter. I also plug a battery maintainer into one of the 12V outlets to keep the batteries topped up. I use air to blow out the water lines and use non-toxic anti-freeze to keep the sanitary system frost protected. I also make sure the sanitary system is well flushed before pulling the boat for winter. I also flush the raw water system with Saltaway after pulling the boat, drain/clean the raw water filter and change the oil.

Yes, I have seen the boat you refer to when last in Genoa Bay, Maple Bay is just north of there. I hate to see boats mouldering at the dock under a tarp and hope someone will purchase and restore it.

Let me know when you reach Poets Cove - I'll welcome you to Pender Island.

[kerrye]

Kind of off topic but I notice you have a zinc on the prop nut. Do you know exactly what zinc that is as I've been looking for one.

[dkirsop]

It's referred to as a Type B prop nut and anode. They vary by shaft size. My boat has a 25mm shaft. They are quite common here on the west coast. Once you have purchased the nut you only replace the anode.

[kerrye]

Does the nut have a cotter pin to hold it in place? The ones I've seen online don't appeal to have one.

[DesertAlbin736]

Metric threads on the prop nut? Not quite sure what we've got on our boat, since it had been repowered with Yanmar & right hand turning prop, replacing original Volvo & left hand prop. May be original shaft, maybe not?

Sent while at anchor on Lake Pleasant

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[WillieC]

You need to take it apart to figure it out. I assumed I had a metric nut on my 30mm shaft with 1:10 metric taper, with a non-metric, non-SAE keyway.

And we all know what happens when you assume something.

It is a standard SAE thread, my prop guy pulled one off the rack and Viola!

My set up doesn't permit the use of the bullet style zinc, the end of the shaft is too close to the rudder. I could have cut more off the north end of the shaft, but then I would have lost the coupler keyway completely. More Money. So I stuck with using collar-type anodes in front of the prop. These are cheaper and may have more zinc to lose.

All that said, one prop shop said that the bullet style are 'better', but I didn't pursue that reasoning further. Kerrye, pull the nut and take it to your prop shop. They should be able to set you up. Oh wait, your boat is two thousand miles away. Hmm.

[dkirsop]

Update on my tarp dimensions. It is 30' x 20', two ply heavy duty. With respect to the anode I will be posting a thread in a couple of weeks regarding cathodic protection and it will answer most questions. The reply from Willie C is correct with regards to nut and threads.

[WillieC]

Too simple when someone else expends all the brain cells.
Thanks, dkirsop!

winter cover frame.JPG

Notice the world turned on its side as the storm clouds come scudding in after several glorious PNW Rainless in December days.

[Dieselram94]

Update on my tarp dimensions. It is 30' x 20', two ply heavy duty. With respect to the anode I will be posting a thread in a couple of weeks regarding cathodic protection and it will answer most questions. The reply from Willie C is correct with regards to nut and threads.

Looking forward to that!

[DesertAlbin736]

Winter wrap for La Dolce Vita. Our lows are still in the 40s F. Forecast for tomorrow is 70/47 sunny. We'll be out on the water.

[kerrye]

In a related matter: Shrink wrap can be reused repeatedly if removed from the boat thoughtfully. Even though I keep my A25 in a barn I pull the shrink wrap i had on it when it was outside over it to protect it from dust and dirt. We keep our F-24 outside and I recently reinstalled the shrink wrap which has already been on the boat for two years. That plastic is tough.

[DesertAlbin736]

We keep our F-24 outside ...

You have an F-24? As in Corsair trimaran like this?

corsair24tri.jpg

And you're in Denver? Any interest in un-shrinkwrapping that puppy & trailering down here to Lake Pleasant & race in the AYC Leukemia Cup Regatta to be held the weekend of February 9th? You could kick some a$$ with that boat! Do you have a spinnaker? What's your PHRF rating?

It's about 800 miles from Denver to here. Two 400 mile driving days with an overnight stay in ABQ. You could even keep it here in mast up storage at the lake ($4.25/foot/month) for the rest of the winter & not have to bother with shrink wrapping. Then fly down from time to time & sail. There's even an option to store over on the west side of the lake at Scorpion Bay where for $15 in & $15 out have them launch & retrieve for you so no need to have your own tow vehicle here.

denver to lp.jpg

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https://www.leukemiacup.org/events/ariz ... ay-regatta



We were just out on the lake overnight last week with highs in the 60s & low around 50. By early February it'll be back up in mid 70s, perfect sailing weather. We get some 10 knot plus downslope breezes coming off the nearby mountains most mornings & you could really fly with that boat.

[DesertAlbin736]

Even though I keep my A25 in a barn..

Boy, don't I wish I had that option! Previous owners up in American Falls, ID that we bought our boat from (previously named "Nowell's Ark") had a barn they kept the boat in. So our boat was literally a "barn find". We don't have the problems with snow & freezing temperatures, but the desert sun & heat is relentless.