Chain locker bulkhead

[AdSurrey]

I think I will cut the pipe down and remove the shelf, I've no use for it and think the two lockers combined should be dedicated to chain and rode. Right now the chain is sitting on the bow as I didn't get time to mess around putting it back in.

When I get back there I'll take proper pictures of the covers, I quite like what they did and definitely prefer having covers, keeps the few spiders I do get out

[honza]

I removed all innards from the bow behind the bulkhead, which is not structural. In my case there was a shelf and a partition. I have installed Lewmar 700 free fall windlass as close to the hatch as I could without obstructing its opening, which meant a new large hole under the windlass. Now it takes 30 ft. of chain and 600 ft. of NER 8 plait 1/2 rode. Works like a breeze. I was not sure, how much rode will fit, so I ordered 300 ft. first and now have it spliced to a few links of chain in the middle. Gives me a signal running in and out

[AdSurrey]

Sorry nebulatech didn't see your reply earlier. It might have done but when we pulled the chain out to measure etc it literally came loose and a short length of 4mm rope came out with it. Lucky that happen while moored up eh Currently it's tied around an old cleat that I found which wont allow it to leave the pipe. I'll look for a better anchor point although I'm not sure what to fix it to.

That's pretty much what I want to do Honza. The windlass will depend on cash at the time and may well up with a manual one for now.

Thanks guys, glad to know I can rip it out and not have to worry quite so much about getting the chain in there.

[nebulatech]

I haven't selected my ground tackle yet, but my current plan is to thru-bolt an eye to the backing block I installed for my bow eye (about 3" x 3" x 10"). I've disassembled that whole locker and there really isn't another good place I can think of. Well, there are some fiberglass tabs that the bulkhead mounts to. I suppose you could install a sufficiently robust brace there, something like 1" oak 8" tall with three bolts on each side...

[AdSurrey]

I'm back aboard now so will check it out tomorrow, hopefully there is something there already to secure to and just missed it.

[honza]

I am having the same problem. I have been looking for a pad eye, which would span the trailer U bolt with no luck. What I have now is a stop knot behind a piece of heavy plywood too big to pass thru the hole in the deck.

[DesertAlbin736]

First I'd wonder about having all chain rode. In theory that's great, but there's the issue of all that weight up in the bow not to mention the effort to haul it in. Second, with rope line I don't like to feed it into the locker right away when it's still wet & stinky but rather flake it & the chain out on deck, rinse it off & let it dry before feeding it into the anchor locker. I've debated whether to remove the upper shelf the last time I had the cabin apart to fix the water tank but didn't. Don't want to go through the hassle of pulling all that stuff apart again to get that upper shelf out. POs tied the end of the anchor rode a foot long piece of wood dowel.

[nebulatech]

I am having the same problem. I have been looking for a pad eye, which would span the trailer U bolt with no luck. What I have now is a stop knot behind a piece of heavy plywood too big to pass thru the hole in the deck.

I like it! My boat had a small triangular panel at the bottom of the locker, maybe 6"-8" each side. It was just 3/8" ply but it could be replaced with something more substantial and be the "stopper" at the end of the line.

[Endurance2018]

I will be installing this lewmar system this week. Including bow roller. Going all chain approximately 145 ft. I’ll keep you posted.

[nebulatech]

That's quite a hefty motor!

[hetek]

Just wondering...

Did Per Brohall ever intend for that to be an anchor rode locker? Yes, and no.

I believe it was Tribologist who posted an original design of the locker with a drain and all... and then it was crossed off in red pencil. Many have commented on that fact.

So, years later, owners began cutting holes in the deck, installing hawse pipes and windlasses and NOW it becomes an anchor locker. The question shouldn't be "Why are these two large access holes in my anchor locker", but rather "Who put an anchor... and a gazillion feet of chain... in my V-berth cubby?"

Me: It is a V-berth cubby. Snotty ground tackle goes in one of the cockpit lockers. Cleat off the bitter end at the bow when deploying and take a bite when paying out the rode. Nix the gazillion feet of chain. FInd a safe harbor if you think you'll ever need that much. And a sea anchor.

Now don't yell at me. My wife already did that this morning. Can you tell?

Ahh... my sanctuary... AOG!

I feel better now.

[AdSurrey]

Lol!

I'm struggling as here on AOG as well as at the club there are good arguments for and against all chain. Hetek also has a valid point as there are mountings on my bow and on some other A25's to hold the anchor, I currently have mine cleated on the bow roller as I have the Jib roller and lines get in the way if I try to leave it all on deck.

As you can see for mine the plastic pipe is glassed in, I've no idea if it's all original or not, I am a little worried if I cut it out that it will weaken the deck on the bow or the chain itself will do damage to the opening if it's removed.

Pulling in 100ft + of chain is a bitch to say the least but I am trying to save for a liveaboard so there will be no spending on a windlass unless a bargain comes up so I'll have to get used to it or swap to a rope rode.

What I am considering doing is remove the pipe below the bow brace and cut a substantial hole in the shelf below rather than to remove it completely so to keep some structural benefits there. That probably won't be for a week or three as we have mooring maintenance to do and I'm digging the hole to sink the mooring I dragged earlier in the year from one of the storms we had. That will be an experience lol

[nebulatech]

Good luck with that mooring! I'd love to hear more details about how you're digging the hole. Is it underwater? Please share some photos of the process so we can live the adventure vicariously with you!

I don't have anything to add to the all chain versus chain + rode debate. Just a few observations regarding the hawse pipe:

1.) The middle shelf in the "chain locker" on my boat wasn't fixed, just resting in place by the taper of the hull, no supports. I don't think it is structural. At least it isn't on my boat. In any case, it is above the waterline, and there are other ways to add structural strength.

2.) I may be mistaken, but the hawse pipe your boat came with seems to be too far forward. Several sources agree (including a windlass installation guide I was looking over earlier) that there should be a 12" minimum free drop from the end of the hawse pipe to the top of your chain/rode to prevent fouling of the line. I believe there is some minimum recommended lateral clearance as well. Essentially, you want the rode to fall in the middle of the locker, plenty of free fall, to prevent it from fouling.

3.) I believe the bow brace and the pipe itself are retrofits. I haven't seen them in any other A25 pictures. Mine is a 1979, and neither exist on my boat. You could safely trim it a few inches below the deck, and possibly consider adding a backing block. If you find that your rode fouls, you might even be able to add a 45 degree elbow to the end of the pipe to carry the rode aft toward the center of the locker. I've no idea if it will be a problem for you, just thinking aloud.

4.) The bow brace is a nice bonus. Having just connected my new water inlet line to the deck fitting, I've been considering how best to protect it from chain, as I intend to use the space for a chain locker. (I was planning to use some old fire hose I have, but it was too small.) That bow brace affords you the opportunity to fasten a panel to protect your hose. In one of your photos one can clearly see the fitting between the fill hose and the water tank. My boat had a small wood panel above the fitting (mentioned above) which I will be remaking. That water tank is replaceable only at incredible expense, so protecting the fitting is vital.

[honza]

Talking about gigging hole for mooring. Many years back, I used to have a big and very heavy piece of an I beam (part of a highway bridge) for a mooring for my Searunner 25. It got pulled out of place by ice most of winters. At that time Hamilton Marine sold inexpensive indian made mushroom anchors. I do not remember the weight, but I was able to load it single handed into my van every fall. During every season it dug itself into the silty bottom pretty good. When the season was over, I tied it on a short scope to the bow and waited for the tide to come in to lift it. It made very strong mooring and thorough seasonal inspection was kind of automatic. But it may depend on the swing room you have available. Few more feet of chain can make a huge difference.

As for the locker, the brace looks structural as a bow support to me. It does not do much for the pipe. But I have no clue, why is it there. Repair of the bow after an accident? Is it well done job, the way it is glassed in?

[Panhdjoe]

I would like to add IMHO there is no way I would have all that chain weight in the very front of a 25. Nor would I even consider for a minuet an all chain rode without a windlass. A Fortress 16 aluminum anchor about 15ft. of 1/4 in. chain with 150ft. of 1/2 in. 3 strand would be how I would go. That setup would be fairly easy to pull in by hand and a darn good anchor.