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Replacement sinks - 28TE
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- Gold Member
- Posts: 1908
- Joined: Thu Apr 23, 2009 8:41 pm
- Home Port: Lake Champlain
Re: Replacement sinks - 28TE
The mystery continues. No idea how Doug removed the old sink relatively unscathed (see photo in first post) without destroying the fiberglass.
I don't see how it's possible to slide a wire under the lip to cut the sealant. Will probably try heat. If it works, I envision a large mess.
I don't see how it's possible to slide a wire under the lip to cut the sealant. Will probably try heat. If it works, I envision a large mess.
Nancy
2005 Albin 35CB
Yanmar 6LYA-STP 370
Valentine
Former boats
1995 Albin 28TE, Cummins 6BTA5.9 250, 2012-2022
1978 Trojan F32, 1998-2012
1983 Grady White 241 Weekender, 1988-1997
1980 Wellcraft 192 Classic, 1983-1987
2005 Albin 35CB
Yanmar 6LYA-STP 370
Valentine
Former boats
1995 Albin 28TE, Cummins 6BTA5.9 250, 2012-2022
1978 Trojan F32, 1998-2012
1983 Grady White 241 Weekender, 1988-1997
1980 Wellcraft 192 Classic, 1983-1987
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- Gold Member
- Posts: 192
- Joined: Tue Feb 10, 2015 9:31 am
- Home Port: Two Harbors
- Location: Southern California
- Contact:
Re: Replacement sinks - 28TE
I removed my galley sink and had it polished. Taking it out required a little ingenuity but it was quick, easy and didn't hurt the sink or the counter. Here's how I did it:
1. Use a thin, flexible putty knife to separate the rim from the counter. I had to use a razor knife in one spot to get it started. I didn't force the rim, just wanted to weaken the bond of the silicone under it.
2. Remove the drain fitting.
3. Cut a piece of 2"x2" wood long enough to place across the sink plus two inches on either side. I don't remember the exact length but it was in the neighborhood of 16". Drill a 5/16" diameter hole thru the middle of it.
4. make two more pieces of wood 3/4"x3/4" x 4" long. I used scrap 3/4" poplar from home depot for these.
5. Cut a piece of 1/4 -20 All-thread rod to 18" length. slide a fender washer over one end and put a nut on it (I used a 1/4-20 wingnut).
6. Put the 3/4" pieces of wood on each side of the sink, then lay the 2x2 on top of them so it spans over the sink like a bridge and the hole in it is centered over the drain hole.
7. Slide the all-thread rod thru the hole in the 2x2, (wingnut and washer on top so it won't fall through the hole).
8. Cut another 2x2 to a length equal to the long side of the sink and drill a 5/16" hole through the middle of it.
9. Slide that piece onto the rod under the sink and add a fender washer and wingnut.
Now you have a way to put pressure on the sink by tightening the nuts. I just tightened the top one until the assembly was just snug. Then I put a couple spacers between the lower piece of wood and the sink so that when I tightened the nut further it wouldn't deform the drain area of the sink.
Now the fun part comes: Tighten the top nut until you have good pressure on the sink and have a beer. By the time you finish it the sink will have started to lift off the counter. Tighten the nut some more and have another beer while you wait for the sink to move some more. This was a three beer project for me and the sink came free with nary a dent, scratch or deformity. I took it down to my buddy's metal shop and had him polish it out...Looks like new now.
1. Use a thin, flexible putty knife to separate the rim from the counter. I had to use a razor knife in one spot to get it started. I didn't force the rim, just wanted to weaken the bond of the silicone under it.
2. Remove the drain fitting.
3. Cut a piece of 2"x2" wood long enough to place across the sink plus two inches on either side. I don't remember the exact length but it was in the neighborhood of 16". Drill a 5/16" diameter hole thru the middle of it.
4. make two more pieces of wood 3/4"x3/4" x 4" long. I used scrap 3/4" poplar from home depot for these.
5. Cut a piece of 1/4 -20 All-thread rod to 18" length. slide a fender washer over one end and put a nut on it (I used a 1/4-20 wingnut).
6. Put the 3/4" pieces of wood on each side of the sink, then lay the 2x2 on top of them so it spans over the sink like a bridge and the hole in it is centered over the drain hole.
7. Slide the all-thread rod thru the hole in the 2x2, (wingnut and washer on top so it won't fall through the hole).
8. Cut another 2x2 to a length equal to the long side of the sink and drill a 5/16" hole through the middle of it.
9. Slide that piece onto the rod under the sink and add a fender washer and wingnut.
Now you have a way to put pressure on the sink by tightening the nuts. I just tightened the top one until the assembly was just snug. Then I put a couple spacers between the lower piece of wood and the sink so that when I tightened the nut further it wouldn't deform the drain area of the sink.
Now the fun part comes: Tighten the top nut until you have good pressure on the sink and have a beer. By the time you finish it the sink will have started to lift off the counter. Tighten the nut some more and have another beer while you wait for the sink to move some more. This was a three beer project for me and the sink came free with nary a dent, scratch or deformity. I took it down to my buddy's metal shop and had him polish it out...Looks like new now.
- Norseman
- Gold Member
- Posts: 1710
- Joined: Mon Jul 13, 2015 10:58 am
- Home Port: Palm Coast, Florida
- Location: Marina del Palma
- Contact:
Re: Replacement sinks - 28TE
Clever: Constant pressure will do it.. Looks like new now.
On overhead hatch frames on previous sailboats, I would bang a wedge in, have a beer.
Bang another wedge in, have another beer, etc.
It works.
2001 28TE, 6LP-STE, 1,337 hrs, 19X18 four-blade wheel.
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- Gold Member
- Posts: 1908
- Joined: Thu Apr 23, 2009 8:41 pm
- Home Port: Lake Champlain
Re: Replacement sinks - 28TE
Beer projects are right up our alley...if this works, Ben, we'll give you an A. Only thing we have trouble with is step 1.. no access for putty knife or anything else except a paint can opener.
Nancy
2005 Albin 35CB
Yanmar 6LYA-STP 370
Valentine
Former boats
1995 Albin 28TE, Cummins 6BTA5.9 250, 2012-2022
1978 Trojan F32, 1998-2012
1983 Grady White 241 Weekender, 1988-1997
1980 Wellcraft 192 Classic, 1983-1987
2005 Albin 35CB
Yanmar 6LYA-STP 370
Valentine
Former boats
1995 Albin 28TE, Cummins 6BTA5.9 250, 2012-2022
1978 Trojan F32, 1998-2012
1983 Grady White 241 Weekender, 1988-1997
1980 Wellcraft 192 Classic, 1983-1987
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- Gold Member
- Posts: 32
- Joined: Sun Mar 02, 2014 12:39 pm
- Home Port: Noyo Harbor Fort Bragg, CA
Re: Replacement sinks - 28TE
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Doug A.
96 28TE "Chinook"
Fort Bragg CA
96 28TE "Chinook"
Fort Bragg CA
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- Gold Member
- Posts: 32
- Joined: Sun Mar 02, 2014 12:39 pm
- Home Port: Noyo Harbor Fort Bragg, CA
Re: Replacement sinks - 28TE
See picture in above post, these are small flat pry bars I used. If you can tap gently to get either end of the bar under any part of the rim just let it sit a while then tap a little more. When one side starts to lift, keep the pressure on that side move your tools to a different place to put more upward pressure there. I did not mind bending the rim because I was replacing the sink (bowl very deeply scratched and stained by prior owner). I put small thin pieces of wood under bar to avoid scratching fiberglass. Like said above, be patient for the sealant to release.
Doug A.
96 28TE "Chinook"
Fort Bragg CA
96 28TE "Chinook"
Fort Bragg CA
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- Gold Member
- Posts: 1908
- Joined: Thu Apr 23, 2009 8:41 pm
- Home Port: Lake Champlain
Re: Replacement sinks - 28TE
Thanks, Doug. You gave me the push I needed to try a small pry bar. A tack puller also proved useful. Between your suggestions and Ben's, we got the job done.
First we tried Ben's lifting apparatus. The sink wasn't going anywhere unless we got the sealant at least partially cut or released.
The paint can lid remover was able to get purchase about midway on the left side. Some googling turned up a bunch of suggestions for softening the sealant. (Heat didn't faze it.) Started with brake cleaner. Squirted it in where we'd been able to lift the lip on the left side and around the rim until the damn can quit squirting. Seriously? We could feel some give on the left side and switched to a small pry bar and also switched to lamp oil. Little by little, the sealant began to release. Remounted the lifting apparatus and tightened it up. Wow, it was so amazingly satisfying when the two long sides and the end opposite the faucet lifted out. Had to work some more on the end near the faucet. Finally got it out.
Only the tiniest amount of clearance on the left side:
Mangled it pretty well:
25YO caulking and debris
Put the apparatus back on after the fact to take a few photos for posterity, although in these photos, the wood is 90 degrees from where it was during the operation. Dropped the new sink in to admire it - sure is pretty! Will post a photo when complete.
First we tried Ben's lifting apparatus. The sink wasn't going anywhere unless we got the sealant at least partially cut or released.
The paint can lid remover was able to get purchase about midway on the left side. Some googling turned up a bunch of suggestions for softening the sealant. (Heat didn't faze it.) Started with brake cleaner. Squirted it in where we'd been able to lift the lip on the left side and around the rim until the damn can quit squirting. Seriously? We could feel some give on the left side and switched to a small pry bar and also switched to lamp oil. Little by little, the sealant began to release. Remounted the lifting apparatus and tightened it up. Wow, it was so amazingly satisfying when the two long sides and the end opposite the faucet lifted out. Had to work some more on the end near the faucet. Finally got it out.
Only the tiniest amount of clearance on the left side:
Mangled it pretty well:
25YO caulking and debris
Put the apparatus back on after the fact to take a few photos for posterity, although in these photos, the wood is 90 degrees from where it was during the operation. Dropped the new sink in to admire it - sure is pretty! Will post a photo when complete.
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post. To view images, please register for a free account.
Nancy
2005 Albin 35CB
Yanmar 6LYA-STP 370
Valentine
Former boats
1995 Albin 28TE, Cummins 6BTA5.9 250, 2012-2022
1978 Trojan F32, 1998-2012
1983 Grady White 241 Weekender, 1988-1997
1980 Wellcraft 192 Classic, 1983-1987
2005 Albin 35CB
Yanmar 6LYA-STP 370
Valentine
Former boats
1995 Albin 28TE, Cummins 6BTA5.9 250, 2012-2022
1978 Trojan F32, 1998-2012
1983 Grady White 241 Weekender, 1988-1997
1980 Wellcraft 192 Classic, 1983-1987
-
- Gold Member
- Posts: 192
- Joined: Tue Feb 10, 2015 9:31 am
- Home Port: Two Harbors
- Location: Southern California
- Contact:
Re: Replacement sinks - 28TE
Now I see the difficulty you faced in removing your sink. It's set in a recess. On my '05 the sink is set on the flat countertop, making it much easier to remove. If you haven't already installed your new sink, I recommend having it polished. It stays cleaner and looks better. I don't recall exactly how much I paid, but it was less than $100.
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- Gold Member
- Posts: 1908
- Joined: Thu Apr 23, 2009 8:41 pm
- Home Port: Lake Champlain
Re: Replacement sinks - 28TE
Ben, your sink isn't recessed? You haven't lived until you've removed a recessed sink. We installed it today, and it looks pretty darn shiny as is. I loaded it with tools as it didn't sit entirely flat on its own. Tomorrow, we'll see how the silicone has cured.
Nancy
2005 Albin 35CB
Yanmar 6LYA-STP 370
Valentine
Former boats
1995 Albin 28TE, Cummins 6BTA5.9 250, 2012-2022
1978 Trojan F32, 1998-2012
1983 Grady White 241 Weekender, 1988-1997
1980 Wellcraft 192 Classic, 1983-1987
2005 Albin 35CB
Yanmar 6LYA-STP 370
Valentine
Former boats
1995 Albin 28TE, Cummins 6BTA5.9 250, 2012-2022
1978 Trojan F32, 1998-2012
1983 Grady White 241 Weekender, 1988-1997
1980 Wellcraft 192 Classic, 1983-1987
- Norseman
- Gold Member
- Posts: 1710
- Joined: Mon Jul 13, 2015 10:58 am
- Home Port: Palm Coast, Florida
- Location: Marina del Palma
- Contact:
Re: Replacement sinks - 28TE
Nancy wrote: ↑Sun Jun 07, 2020 8:39 pm Ben, your sink isn't recessed? You haven't lived until you've removed a recessed sink. We installed it today, and it looks pretty darn shiny as is. I loaded it with tools as it didn't sit entirely flat on its own. Tomorrow, we'll see how the silicone has cured.
Pictures, need pictures..
2001 28TE, 6LP-STE, 1,337 hrs, 19X18 four-blade wheel.
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- Gold Member
- Posts: 1908
- Joined: Thu Apr 23, 2009 8:41 pm
- Home Port: Lake Champlain
Re: Replacement sinks - 28TE
Ta da! Very happy with the way this turned out. Totally worth the hassle.
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Nancy
2005 Albin 35CB
Yanmar 6LYA-STP 370
Valentine
Former boats
1995 Albin 28TE, Cummins 6BTA5.9 250, 2012-2022
1978 Trojan F32, 1998-2012
1983 Grady White 241 Weekender, 1988-1997
1980 Wellcraft 192 Classic, 1983-1987
2005 Albin 35CB
Yanmar 6LYA-STP 370
Valentine
Former boats
1995 Albin 28TE, Cummins 6BTA5.9 250, 2012-2022
1978 Trojan F32, 1998-2012
1983 Grady White 241 Weekender, 1988-1997
1980 Wellcraft 192 Classic, 1983-1987
- Norseman
- Gold Member
- Posts: 1710
- Joined: Mon Jul 13, 2015 10:58 am
- Home Port: Palm Coast, Florida
- Location: Marina del Palma
- Contact:
Re: Replacement sinks - 28TE
Nicely done Ms. Nancy..
2001 28TE, 6LP-STE, 1,337 hrs, 19X18 four-blade wheel.
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- Swabby
- Posts: 4
- Joined: Mon Feb 17, 2020 4:36 am
- Home Port: Annapolis,MD
Re: Replacement sinks - 28TE
Nancy is that the original drain fitting or a newer replacement? If possible could you upload a photo of how you reduced from the drain fitting to the hose line leading to the thru-hull? Next project on my hit list, thanks in advance. Robert
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- Gold Member
- Posts: 1908
- Joined: Thu Apr 23, 2009 8:41 pm
- Home Port: Lake Champlain
Re: Replacement sinks - 28TE
Robert, I replaced the entire strainer assembly using the unit posted by Norseman on the first page of this thread.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002U ... UTF8&psc=1
The tail flange is the magic piece.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002U ... UTF8&psc=1
The tail flange is the magic piece.
Nancy
2005 Albin 35CB
Yanmar 6LYA-STP 370
Valentine
Former boats
1995 Albin 28TE, Cummins 6BTA5.9 250, 2012-2022
1978 Trojan F32, 1998-2012
1983 Grady White 241 Weekender, 1988-1997
1980 Wellcraft 192 Classic, 1983-1987
2005 Albin 35CB
Yanmar 6LYA-STP 370
Valentine
Former boats
1995 Albin 28TE, Cummins 6BTA5.9 250, 2012-2022
1978 Trojan F32, 1998-2012
1983 Grady White 241 Weekender, 1988-1997
1980 Wellcraft 192 Classic, 1983-1987
-
- Swabby
- Posts: 4
- Joined: Mon Feb 17, 2020 4:36 am
- Home Port: Annapolis,MD
Re: Replacement sinks - 28TE
Thanks Nancy I had seen that previously, was hoping that maybe you had the "magic reducer" fitting from sink drain to hose. I'll see what I can cobble together hopefully from HD, if not, will purchase the entire new strainer assembly.