Checking shaft alignment 6LP (rear facing)

[JAYcub]

Hello AOG members. I recently purchased my first Albin, her name is Sea Turtle and she is a 2001 28TE with the Yanmar 6LPA (motor box) 3k hours. I purchased it out of an estate sale, so I was not able to talk with the prior owner and the son had little helpful information about the history of the boat. I would have loved to talk to Sea Turtle's old owner since he bought it in 2007 and it looks like he put a lot of the hours on it. I see no log of maintenance he kept with his paperwork. So, I have been spending a bit of time getting my hands/eyes on all systems to try and learn as much as I can about her overall condition.

So far, I spent a couple days cleaning the bilge and replacing all raw water hoses as they were showing their age and visually. I also found a small fuel leak on one of the return lines that was addressed easily. House and starting battery replaced. I found a couple minor coolant leaks around the hot water heater and bus heater that I need to address (I will replace all those hoses in the near future). I have new timing belt parts in the mail that I will be addressing this winter as well.

One big item I discovered (why I am writing to you today) is the FWD/PORT motor mount is oddly not bolted/secured correctly...very concerning. There seems to be a bit of rust on both the FWD mounting brackets which I suspect is because of prior raw water leaks (evident by some corrosion and seawater stains around the hoses above this). I have ordered 4 new motor mounts to replace each - the rear mounts look perfect and there is no rust on those brackets so I will begin replacing the forward 2 first. Likely address the other 2 later. When I do this, I will be pulling the rusted brackets and mounts one at a time while securing a piece of wood under the transmission. I want to sandblast and repaint both brackets as long as I don't see any cracks in the welds etc. seems reasonable to think I can preserve these and reuse when I reinstall the new mounts.

What I am unsure about is the correct procedure to check shaft alignment once I reinstall the new mounts...since this Yanmar sits in the Albin backwards (front of engine faces the stern) and the prop shaft goes through the ZF transmission where there is a coupler that bolts to the shaft. I am assuming that the shaft where it penetrates the transmission is free floating inside the transmission and then it only connects to the coupler after it comes out the back of the transmission? Can I just check alignment with the usual feeler gauges between the coupling flanges? Just not sure if there are additional steps needed with this "reversed" configuration when checking for motor/shaft alignment. Additionally, I am very sure the boat was operated for a while with the one bad mount and so I am also worried about the shaft being possibly bent as a result of misalignment. Does anybody have good suggestions on how to check the straightness of the shaft while it is in place?

I have a couple weeks until my new mounts will arrive in the mail, so I am doing my homework on how I should go about addressing checking alignment and other damage caused by this bad mount.

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[JAYcub]

Well, from looking around online and asking AI (a new resource I don’t fully trust but am playing around with) - what I understand it sounds like there is not a difference between the technique used to measure shaft alignment from a forward facing or astern facing motor.

I purchased new motor mounts made by Novibrations (looks like Novibrations purchased Barry Controls - and are making the OE mounts or nearly identical). I pulled the rusted bracket in the picture that was “floating” and the old motor mount. I sand blasted the bracket down to bare clean steal and repainted. Reinstalled both and have moved on to the starboard forward mount. It’s a whole process since I’m trying to only remove one mount at a time. Pleased with the outcome.

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[JAYcub]

I have not checked the shaft alignment yet. I will be checking the shaft for roll out and measuring shaft alignment once my mounts are all completed - but in the meantime I discovered the cutless bearing has taken a bit of abuse from what I believe must be because of this motor mount situation.

See video https://youtu.be/SNbuPz8vPfM?si=4KoGHD9Cku-HFfDq

I’ll be pulling the prop and shaft soon to replace the cutless. I am curious if anyone has ever pulled their shaft out the forward side? It looks like it would work on my albin with the 6LPA - this would allow me to leave my rudder installed.

[JAYcub]

The saga continues. I measured the shaft runout and there was a bit of a bend up by transmission. See video:

https://youtube.com/shorts/gVnYPJwcrr0? ... _ZALSnl_Es

Looks like I’ll be replacing the shaft if I can’t straighten it.

[Norseman]

Simce you have a 6LPA in a 2001, the engine may be newer than the boat?
Curious if the data plate gives the year of manufacture..
(My 2001 had the 6LP)

[JAYcub]

I’m sorry the motor is in fact a 6LP STE. Thank you for pointing that out.

I am curious do you know what the ‘A’ designator represents? What is a 6LP vs 6LPA?

[JAYcub]

Saga continues, I pulled the shaft after a pretty tough battle with getting the shaft coupler to release. After getting the shaft out I set it up on some bearing rollers to check it again and start working on straightening the shaft. I found that the shaft was not as bent as when it was connected to the transmission. Looking back I should have known better - I should have disconnected the shaft before measuring runout. I am still getting about .0045”

Attempting to get within .002” with some heat.

[Norseman]

I’m sorry the motor is in fact a 6LP STE. Thank you for pointing that out.

I am curious do you know what the ‘A’ designator represents? What is a 6LP vs 6LPA?

The A means Made In the US (A= America)

Also the LP was rated at 300 hp vs 315 for LPA, but same engine, no difference.

[carolmarie]

Norseman is right on. Also, the “E” designation is for Export if you haven’t already guessed.