28 TE Restoration

[Sisu22]

Looks good - I will keep an eye out for installers here in So Cal that can wrap mine. I think it makes more sense than painting at $7 or 9K

[Norseman]

Looks good - I will keep an eye out for installers here in So Cal that can wrap mine. I think it makes more sense than painting at $7 or 9K

Wow, that is cheap...
I got 2 quotes for painting 3 years ago here in Fort Lauderdale: $12k and $20k
(Hired a specialist to restore the gelcoat luster instead, $2k and the boat looks brand new. All good. )

[Pitou]

Looks good - I will keep an eye out for installers here in So Cal that can wrap mine. I think it makes more sense than painting at $7 or 9K

Wow, that is cheap...
I got 2 quotes for painting 3 years ago here in Fort Lauderdale: $12k and $20k
(Hired a specialist to restore the gelcoat luster instead, $2k and the boat looks brand new. All good. )

The white hulls restore nicely. The dark gel-coat hulls .. are a lot of "continual " hard work.

Are your paint quotes for below and above the rub rail / topside and house? Below the rubrail in New England for a 28 is $5,500 to $7k.

[MadMoney]

I agree with Norseman... $7-$9K is CHEAP for a paint job. Out here in Seattle, I got 3 quotes in the $16K-$18K range for just the hull (rub rail down to the water line).

Anthony Warren
1999 28' Albin Mad Money

[Norseman]

. Are your paint quotes for below and above the rub rail / topside and house? Below the rubrail in New England for a 28 is $5,500 to $7k.

I believe that was the whole boat, $12K @ Cable Marine, and $20 from a contractor that calls himself Patagonia Yacht Services or some such thing.
Probably another $2k for yard fees, boot stripe, cleanup, taxes, etc.

[Sisu22]

Yes, my quote was based on $300 / ft LCL below rub rail only.

[Kingarthur]

Well want to bump this thread as I have been busy with life. Wedding, kids, house, etc.

Looking to get this back going for this winter for a few projects. The platform is fuel efficient, comfortable, easy to handle and has a good balance of fish and cabin that we cant seem to come to a better resolution. We are still looking to pursue the restoration but need to get an idea of the important mechanical things out of the way first. We have over 2100 hours on the yanmar 6LP STE. As years have gone on we have seen the hull slow down. The current runs to the fishing grounds consist of 30-70 miles one way. 18kt-20kt cruise would be great to allow for the fishing time to be

A few things we are trying to track down now but our current numbers are looking at 3400RPM doing 14-15kts with 3/4 fuel, full water and two people on board. I have done some homework on here and looks like with our platform we are looking we should be about 18kts for the 6lp configuration. I have personally seen WOT at 19-20kts @ 3950 RPM in years past which seems a tad slow for just me on board with half fuel. We do not have AC or a generator on board so we should be a little lighter than others out there. We do have some thru hulls for sounders and such but those are flush to the hull. I dont believe we are bringing more gear but typically have a cooler full of 50lb of ice, beer/water, and standard fishing gear. Nothing too crazy.

A few things we need to verify first before changing anything is that the Tach is close. Verify this on the engine and if we can we need to do a series of runs in water deeper than the craft to verify the few data points we have. At that point start looking at other areas. The hull has not been brought down to original gel coat to be painted so 20 plus years of bottom paint can not be helping. The propellor needs to be removed and scanned to ensure it is still in compliance. Anything else that we should be looking at to reach our goal?

Either way, I know I have some members here that know the boat pretty well. If we could get the 18k-20kt easy cruise at 3400-3600RPM would you all consider repowering with a yanmar 6LP STE in the future or would you all go a different route if given the option? Spoke to Mac boring and they can still supply this engine (315HP version) but if looking at the higher cruise numbers and the significant investment that might go into this boat, would this be a smart move?

[Sisu22]

I'm an amateur at this stuff, but for sure the tach needs to be checked as you say, and then I'd say the next thing to look at would be the prop. How old is it and has it been scanned recently?

It that motor only has 2,100 hours and has been well maintained and has a good block, compression, etc. I can't see justifying the cost of replacing it. Maybe go through the exchangers, coolers, pumps, alternator etc but if it makes RPM why not keep it?

[Tree]

I would stick with the current engine. I only replaced the head on mine due to some idiot so called cylinder head specialist destroying it and I’m just shy of 2500 hours now.

Your list of upgrades is a bit longer than mine was over the past three years but albeit most thing were the same.

I replaced all the electronics except the radome and AIS tx/rx unit.

2 x 12” axiom MFD and one 7” because it filled a gap lol

New windlass

Heating

Hull wrap in light grey

Engine refresh

New shaft and wheel. This gives me just short of 26 knots with quarter tank and just me aboard. Engine now revs out to 4000rpm on the yanmar tach.

Replaced all the hydraulic rams on engine box and deck hatches to stainless steel versions

Flexiteek deck about 7 years ago

New deck upholstery including new custom helm chairs

Solar panel and charger

Custom hand rails

Pantographic wipers


I can’t remember it all and I’m sure there is more. In total I’ve probably spent the thick end of £30,000 over the past seven years in upgrades. It was either that or replace the boat but I just can’t find anything I like unless I go much larger and marina space here is limited and very expensive!

[Kingarthur]

I'm an amateur at this stuff, but for sure the tach needs to be checked as you say, and then I'd say the next thing to look at would be the prop. How old is it and has it been scanned recently?

It that motor only has 2,100 hours and has been well maintained and has a good block, compression, etc. I can't see justifying the cost of replacing it. Maybe go through the exchangers, coolers, pumps, alternator etc but if it makes RPM why not keep it?

Sisu22,

Thanks for the response. Yes agree to check those items propeller has not been replaced or scanned since we had a strike in the Hudson River over 12 years ago. Could not even tell you what is on the boat now as father has misplaced the documentation for the propeller during a move.

Hope to do a short haul to confirm the propeller, check bottom and do a few runs with a phototach prior to the end of the season.

[Kingarthur]

I would stick with the current engine. I only replaced the head on mine due to some idiot so called cylinder head specialist destroying it and I’m just shy of 2500 hours now.

Your list of upgrades is a bit longer than mine was over the past three years but albeit most thing were the same.

I replaced all the electronics except the radome and AIS tx/rx unit.

2 x 12” axiom MFD and one 7” because it filled a gap lol

New windlass

Heating

Hull wrap in light grey

Engine refresh

New shaft and wheel. This gives me just short of 26 knots with quarter tank and just me aboard. Engine now revs out to 4000rpm on the yanmar tach.

Replaced all the hydraulic rams on engine box and deck hatches to stainless steel versions

Flexiteek deck about 7 years ago

New deck upholstery including new custom helm chairs

Solar panel and charger

Custom hand rails

Pantographic wipers


I can’t remember it all and I’m sure there is more. In total I’ve probably spent the thick end of £30,000 over the past seven years in upgrades. It was either that or replace the boat but I just can’t find anything I like unless I go much larger and marina space here is limited and very expensive!

Fischer price,

Thanks for the reply!

This would be a labor of love. I am curious on your WOT number of 26kts. Went and reread a few threads here. I believe fuel obviously makes a big difference also where it is located in the aft area of the boat. What do you run at with a 3/4 or full tank RPM and speed? We have longer runs to the fishing grounds so just trying to get some more fishing time.

I have also reached out to look at the transmission ratio switch. The Yanmar makes sense to run it as long as we can and Yanmar is still supporting the new sale of the engine. The ZF transmission can come with a 1.56 to 1 vs the current. This would still require cost and work but might help the east cruise numbers we desire work. I know the few boats that kept the transmission out of the pensular seem to have great numbers.