04 flushdeck, helm pedestal

[fisherofman]

Ahoy there, That's some greeting from a newbie. Anyway, I have just closed on my new Albin 28 flushdeck, well it's new to me. I've been looking for this boat for 3 years. Talk about being excited!!!
However my new boat is in VA, 300 miles away. Now I plan on getting some extensive cooling system maintenance done before I have it trailered to my homeport in North East, Md. I do have a question about the helm pedestal. The engine hatch needs to be opened further than the pedestal allows because it contacts the wheel and dash. Now the seat can be lifted off and set aside. What is needed is to remove the 4 inch "pipe" that supports the seat? There are 2 small set screws at the base of the "pipe" and it seems like the pipe should just lift out to be removed. We have applied wd-40 and smacked it with a soft face heavy hammer. Is there something we are missing. Will it twist out if forced? Will I break something if force twisting? Do I need to unbolt the base from underneath the hatch?
I want to allow the hatch to open completely so the engine tech has plenty of room to work. Any thoughts? I am planning to make a trip down in a few weeks to try to remedy that. Thanks. I do have some other minor work that needs attention that I can probably so myself. But I may be asking for more advice in the near future. thanks again. JP

[Carl]

IMG_4488.jpeg

If it looks like this Todd base, you will need to lift up on the lid, it’s spring loaded, and then unscrew the post. It may be somewhat corroded, so some wiggling while trying to spin it will help. That spring loaded lid locks into the notches, in the base.

[fisherofman]

Yes, that's it. Thank you. It must be extra corroded. We tried that but not hard enough.
I will use a strap wrench and cheater pipe. I was just afraid that if it wasn't corroded I might break something.
Thanks again. I am going to work on it next week. I'll try to let you know how I make out.

[Carl]

FYI, when I have mechanics do a valve adjustment, or timing belt replacement I will remove the hatch completely prior to their arrival. This only requires the removal of the hinge screws and disconnecting the lift cylinder. This will save you some labor and allow for great access for him. Just be sure to add sealant when replacing the hinge screws.

[fisherofman]

Thanks Carl, Good advice. I'm just having heat exchanger, oil, trans coolers and after cooler R&R and cleaned out at this time.
Do you think that will be more helpful than just being able to open the hatch further? I'm not real familiar with those components and their location. Thanks again. JP

[Albin28McKinney]

Some information for you flush deck owners that have the helm Todd pedestal. Mine stripped out and Todd no longer sells a tall seat pedestal. They do have a tall what they call a table pedestal but the bottom of the pedestal that goes into the deck piece is made of plastic instead of aluminum. I called Todd and they confirmed there is too much leverage for a tall seat pedestal even though mine lasted for 18 years. They do sell a short adjustable seat pedestal with the metal piece that screws into the base in the deck but it is too short. I purchased this short pedestal and just loosened the 3 set screws on my old stripped out piece and the new metal one and put my old tall pedestal into the new metal base. I replaced the in deck base as well. I then drilled and tapped for the 3 set screws and life is great.

[fisherofman]

Ok that's a good remedy. Hopefully I am not there yet. But we shall see as I try to free up the corroded base.
Thanks again.

[Carl]

IMG_0447.jpeg

This was my solution after failure of my Todd post base as well. Quick pins in the hinge mounts allow for easy removal for full access. Can still raise it up enough to check oil without removal. Provides additional 3 drawers of storage.