Best bilge pump

[jerridsc]

Trying to find discussions on best bilge pump arrangement for A25. When I put “Bilge Pump” in search window, get every mention of them but the discussion I am looking for. Maybe just tell me the best arrangement or guide to finding exactly the discussion. Thanks.

[dkirsop]

Follow this link to various options for the A25

https://albinowners.net/aog/viewtopic.p ... box#p66013

[WillieC]

What a blast from the past rereading that thread.
Thanks, Mr. K.

The remote pump with electronic switch and bottom lying strum box has stood the test of time. There are further improvements that leave the bilge bone dry, but hey, it’s still a fifty year old boat.

[SalishAire]

I'll just add to AVOID submersible pumps (very very common) that have a tiny hard plastic impeller. ANY dog hair, human hair, pain chips, etc. etc. that gets into the impeller can quickly incapacitate that style of pump. UGLY EXAMPLE: A friend (this is first hand story) had a factory new boat (a rather new design still working out the manufacturing kinks) which had more water in the bilge than he expected BUT he was new to inboards and figured it must be from the shaft seal. One day, away from his home dock and no lift in sight, he noticed the waterline had crept down into the sea a bit (salt water here) and looked in the engine compartment. The engine was partially submerged (the factory ended up doing a warranty replacement of the whole engine). The source of the problem - someone in the factory had drilled a 1/8th inch hole too deep (penetrated the hull) AND the ditsy little bilge pump which had been keeping up swallowed a tiny gob of gunk and quit.

[DesertAlbin736]

FWIW we inherited a self priming belt driven PAR diaphagm bilge pump that has served us well. The bilge sump is narrow so there's not a lot of room for float switch or strum box. For a long time we only had a manual on/off switch on the 12V switch/fuse panel but last year I added an electronic bilge sensor switch wired through an auto/off/manual switch on the dash board. These pumps are quite expensive to buy new, up to $700, There's also a light duty version for around $300, and possibly some used ones on eBay. It has a fine mesh strainer in the suction side hose (red 5/8th water pump hose). The only thing is the strainer has to be checked & cleaned frequently. The float sensor switch is attached to an aluminum flat strap twisted 90 deg and attached to the wood deck frame with a 1/4-20 bolt & wing nut for easy removal for cleaning. A bit of if is visible at lower right in the pump picture. In the switch panel photo (click to rotate) the old bilge pump switch has since been repurposed as windshield wiper switch and re-labeled.

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[Dieselram94]

What model bilge switch is that?

[DesertAlbin736]

From Defender Marine:

Water Witch Submersible Electronic Bilge Pump Switch 101
Item # 887336

https://defender.com/en_us/water-witch- ... switch-101

Features:
The Water Witch Model 101 submersible electronic bilge pump switches offer an affordable, more reliable alternative to the ordinary mechanical float switch, not to mention the fact that installation of the 101 is a nearly effortless task
So get rid of that old, unreliable float switch and go with a switch you can trust, a product backed by 20 years of experience in the marine industry
The Water Witch® Model 101 submersible electronic bilge pump switches allow boat owners to forever rid themselves of the archaic outdated float switch
Instead of an unreliable and short-lived mechanical float switch these Water Witch electronic bilge switches have no moving parts and require no adjustments
This eliminates the chance of your battery dying or your pump burning out because of a jammed-on float switch
Temperature, humidity and electrical noise will not affect this switch, nor will it interfere with other electronics. This switch comes with a 5 year limited warranty and is in use by both the Canadian and U.S. Coast Guards
Mercury Free
Oils and Fuels will not activate switch
Simple Installation
Delay On: Avoids false pump cycles
Delay Off: Controls standing water level
Electronic Switch: No moving parts wear out or stick
Stainless steel metal parts
Exceeds both U.S. Coast Guard and U.L. standards
Specifications:
Power Required:
12V DC (Model 101)
24V DC (Model 101-24)
Power used: .004A
Delay on: 6 - 8 Seconds
Delay off: 14 - 16 Seconds
Max load:
12V: 15A (Model 101)
24V: 10A (Model 101-24)
Dimensions: 2.135" W x 1.35" H x 1" D
Note: A fuse and manual override switch are recommended with the installation of a Water Witch electronic bilge switch.

The dashboard switch is obviously West Marine, but it was one I'd had laying around for years and I don't think they make or sell that style anymore.

[Dieselram94]

So, looking over the wiring schematic for that switch I’m confused. It shows it as having no manual mode? I’m probably just not comprehending it on my end.

[DesertAlbin736]

Manual mode or no manual mode depends on the type of dash switch. Here's the wiring diagram from the instructions. With 2 way switch (left panel) Shows the Model 101 with all power going through the fused switch panel and the bilge sensor. Brown & red wires are positive side that close when activated by the sensor and open when the bilge level is pumped down. In this case there is no manual override. In the 3 way switch right panel the diagram for Model 101 is what I have. My dash panel switch has built in fuse, and "Off" is when the rocker switch is in mid position. You can see the 3 way wire connections under the lip of the cockpit sole opening. They are insulated with liquid electrical "tape" and set as high and out of the way out of the way as possible.

Bilge pump wiring.jpg

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Bilge pump wiring2.jpg

[LopezMike]

Extensive tests (made up just now by me!) show that a frightened crew with a five gallon bucket and up to their knees in water will out perform all other solutions.

Actually, I have multiple ways of clearing the bilge.
My primary pump is a belt driven electric pump that is controlled by a pressure sensitive switch. The only system I have used so far.
My next level of defense is a manual diaphragm pump. Jabsco. Don't remember the model but about six inch diameter.
Backing up that is a valve and hose arrangement that allows my engine coolant source to be switched from the raw water through hull to a bilge intake. This has the advantage of not requiring much attention while the skipper is dealing with the source of the leak but has the disadvantage that the engine raw water pump is not intended to digest bilge crud. I am fortunate to have a fairly clean bilge (the boat's, that is).
Mike

[WillieC]

I keep an axe handy to blow a hole in the hull so the water will just drain out.

[Dieselram94]

Manual mode or no manual mode depends on the type of dash switch. Here's the wiring diagram from the instructions. With 2 way switch (left panel) Shows the Model 101 with all power going through the fused switch panel and the bilge sensor. Brown & red wires are positive side that close when activated by the sensor and open when the bilge level is pumped down. In this case there is no manual override. In the 3 way switch right panel the diagram for Model 101 is what I have. My dash panel switch has built in fuse, and "Off" is when the rocker switch is in mid position. You can see the 3 way wire connections under the lip of the cockpit sole opening. They are insulated with liquid electrical "tape" and set as high and out of the way out of the way as possible.

Bilge pump wiring.jpg
20161220_152559.jpg
20211020_121141edit.jpg
Bilge pump wiring2.jpg

Thank you! Picking one up at the local Hamilton Marine. They have them on the shelf.