Heavy engine box

[Chris G]

To all those who have a n Albin 25 de Luxe:

I have often wondered, if anyone has modified the heavy, awkward engine box?

Mine is in 2 parts. The main body and a wedge shaped cover on the top, to allowing you to get to the oil dipstick and do a quick visual of the engine etc. But when I have to remove the main body of the box, it involves removing flooring and doing a balancing act on the cross beams whilst lifting what feels as heavy as a dead walrus. I recently changed the oil and filter and thought that there must be a better way of gaining access than removing the whole box.

I have a Volvo Penta MD17 which fills the box pretty good, not leaving a lot of room for error when the box goes back on.

I have considered cutting the box and reinsulating, but thought I would see if you guys have some suggestions. Photo's would be very welcome.

It is not such a problem on the non-de Luxe, as the bulkhead between the engine and the forward cabin can be opened, as distinct from the de Luxe, that has a shelving unit behind the bulkhead. I have seen hinged motor boxes on the non Deluxe models.

Any advice is greatly appreciated

[WillieC]

We have the fully removable one piece cover that I suspect was a transitional design when they moved to the DeLuxe. Ours is a 1973 model. MD 17C engine.

We do a full engine check every time we run, maximum once per day. I can't image how that could be accomplished without a full slide back and out of the way. The box is basically in two halves broken at the floor line with a funky channel to hold the upper half aligned. There are no cutouts to check the oil or other hinged components. One piece held by gravity, though wedged in place by other components. Now maybe if we had a shiny new red engine that requires no maintenance, uses no oil, never slips a belt, we could get by with the newer cover.

It would take some work, minor carpenter skills, decent tools, but I suspect the newer covers could be modified to act like the one we have, but it would take some serious planning and may involve a bit of fiberglass work as well. I'll see if I can find a picture or two. I've only seen a few like ours and I have come to appreciate it over the years.

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You can get an idea of the track that the upper portion, not shown duh, slides on. We do have one inch thick rubber exercise mats that we move out of the way. Once the box is slid back about 3 inches, we have to grab the forward edge and lift it over the engine while the back slides on the existing floorboards. We do not have to do anything with the full bench seat since its structure sits on the floor shown in the upper part of the picture. Presto, full access. The lid is now sitting on the aft cabin roof since I am in the winter maintenance mode. The seat has been removed and is sitting on the starboard bench so I can really get into the projects. But for regular engine checks and light maintenance, the seat remains in place.

This transitional Mk 2 model does not have the hinged forward bulkhead found in the prehistoric models. I cut an access panel in that bulkhead that is inside the cupboard in the galley. It is visible to the left, assuming the picture is oriented correctly.

[hetek]

I have a ‘77 de Luxe. It also didn’t have any cockpit floor boards or framing when I bought so it may now be different from the original configuration, but if it gives you ideas, here goes…

First, I decided to make the floor all one level. I put the batteries under the floor, mounted on a platform ‘glassed to the hull.

I have the same motor box as you, but I have no problem opening the box with the flooring in place. Again, mine is not original. The side edges of the box are sandwiched between the floor plywood and a 1/2”x1/2” angle aluminum I fastened to the floor framing. The forward edge of the box is supported by some 2x2 Ipe I fastened to the bulkhead. The rear edge is hinged using take-apart hinges, so it can be removed entirely.

Here are some pictures. Hope you can see what I’m talking about. I don’t have the hinges installed yet but you can see the mounting holes where they go. Btw, don’t let the cardboard on the floor confuse you. Trying to keep my floors clean while I work on it.

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[WillieC]

I like having the whole upper section, clear to the floor level, easily removed to facilitate checking the pan under the engine for leaks, belt chunks, unidentified flying metal, etc. Much easier to clean up, as well. Jon, your cover gives a good view. Anything that looks amiss may require further removal to properly assess what's going on. I could live with that.

Hmm, cardboard on the floors...I should try that.

(Are you in the water yet?)

[Burton]

Ditto on the grief of these engine boxes. (Slow Motion, A25 Deluxe). This past summer we had a water leak on the engine due to me not getting a hose clamp tightened after an impeller change. There was no way I could reach it due to the small cover. We tied off to a lobster buoy, but were bouncing around so much in the waves that pulling the floorboards, engine cover, etc. just wasn't going to be an option as I'd be feeding the lobsters my breakfast trying to look down long enough to get all that done. It was the raw water side of things, so I just had to keep pumping out the bilge for about an hour until we could get tied up to a dock. We have to pull the seat, the floorboards, then the whole cover that weighs more than I can easily lift, in order to get full access.

I've thought of beefing up the arch overhead so I could use a pulley on it to lift the cover up. But that does not help when one wants to do a full inspection regularly. I did get all new engine compartment insulation done (from Defender, took two kits) and it sure helped with the noise.

By the way, after the experience of the leak, we purchased a bilge water alarm-- will install this winter.

I'd sure appreciate any help figuring out this situation, too. I also find the seat a bear to muscle around. (We have the original.)

[hetek]

My bottom picture shows my engine cover with the wedge shaped piece that Chris mentioned, removed.

The cover you see in the picture is large, but rather light. I can easily carry it with one hand. Just a 3/16” thick fiberglass shell. It spends its time on top of the aft cabin top when removed.

In contrast, the wedge shaped piece is surprisingly heavy. It’s double layered and cored with who knows what, but boy does it have some heft. That’s a two handed piece to deal with.

I also just have a single pedestal mount seat at the helm with the pedestal bolted to the forward end of the starboard cockpit bench. I don’t have an original bench seat.

No water this year I’m afraid Willie C. Too much going on at the Hetek homestead. I’m rebuilding the running gear on the trailer (brakes, wiring, coupler, winch and new tires all around) while the Albin is under her winter cover. Next spring, though… She’s going in!

[Chris G]

Thanks for the comments so far..Very useful.

I may have a fairly simple solution for removing the bench seat. I'll post some photo's next time I am at the harbour.

[WillieC]

Burton, yours is exactly the nightmare scenario I'd imagine. A few years back we blew out an impeller during a test of how long we thought it might run without water. Not long. We've actually done that test more than once, but we're getting better at remembering to open the seacock.

Anyhoo, there was light wind moving us ashore but I thought I had plenty of time to fix before we became seal food. With our engine cover, it was no problem. The Starfleet Commander got a little anxious but we still had plenty of water under the boat when we cranked. Another five minutes of run time would have put us right in the ferry lane between Vashon and Southworth. Pay attention! So glad I installed a high temp alarm on the exhaust elbow. I hope we don't wear it out.

[Burton]

Yes, I did the same experiment on the impeller. But it is so much fun to replace it. It only requires 30 minutes to contort into a sort of origami swan shape to get to it on the Yanmar 3JH3E. But I’m getting ahead of myself…. Remove bench seat, turn it upside down and set over aft cabin. Remove all floorboards, setting them on dock. Remove small top engine cover, carry onto dock. Undo engine box hold down clips. Balance on crossmembers and rotate beast of box out finally after several failed attempts. Stop engine project momentarily and schedule appointment with chiropractor. Realize one tool you need is still in aft cabin. Get on hands and knees with no floorboards in place, open lower aft cabin door which can still barely open due to aforementioned inverted bench seat, get tool, but be sure to need to crawl in there a couple more times, too. Oh—hope no one arrives at float dock who needs the space all our stuff is taking. Reverse process when done with engine. Listen to Admiral when I get home, “Honey, you are walking funny again….need to see the chiropractor…”.

I much appreciate the pics and descriptions contributed—hadn’t thought of these solutions. Cutting this beast at floorboard level and doing the slides or hinges WILL be a future project. Not sure on the bench seat to solo seat switch. The Admiral likes to join me sometimes and see how I’m doing with the chartplotter and our destination. Now don’t go asking just why she’s checking on me….

[WillieC]

That's the spirit! Another catastrophizer, just like me!

Who knew when we bought our boat that the funky unattached engine cover would be a major must have. Though, I must say I am envious of those who just jump on board their boats and take off. I don't know if I could ever do that, more so with a bigazz boat. I like knowing exactly what is going on in the engine box, much of which informs me of what is going on in the engine itself. We've run 16 hour days with nary a hitch, but visual confirmation is reassuring. OK, the blowby catch bottle has a bit more oil, the weeping copper washer on the fuel lift pump is annoying as all get out, and well looky there! More seawater in the engine pan! Huh? More investigation required. But if you only check once a month, you have no clue what precipitated the slurry in the pan.

I look forward to your modification on your cover, Burton.

[Burton]

Just thinking of this adaptation gives me some peace of mind for the future!

[SalishAire]

We have the Delux 2 part engine cover but with a twist. Somewhere along the line a door was cut under the lower shelf of the bookcase just to stbd of the forward cabin entry. Once the cover is removed from the engine the belts, impellers, water pumps etc are very easy to access from the forward cabin.

[hetek]

Very interesting, SalishAire. Seems the bulkhead door would help me with access to my diesel.

My Vetus sits low and most check items are below floorboard level. A bulkhead door might do the trick. My only concern would be fumes and/or smells permeating the door and stinking up the forward cabin. Something with a decent gasket or seal would be in order.

Speaking of access… My first marina job was as a yard worker and would help the mechanic when needed. We were tasked to get the fuel and oil filter specs for a sailboat with an inboard diesel.

After an extended head scratching session to gain access to the engine under the companionway we were about to give up. We just could not see any way possible to gain access to do even the simplest fluid checks. Everything was screwed down tight. Something was wrong here.

Then I recalled something I saw in my dad’s sailboat magazine. We went to the forward cabin and under the V berth was the diesel, in all its easy access glory.

The marina owner asked us what took so long.

[Chris G]

Well, I've decided to cut the box at floor level. What tool would you recommend to cut it neatly? Jigsaw? What type of blade?
Anyway, here's my rough and ready solution to the bench problem. I'm sure someone could 'fine tune' it a bit. I appreciate any comments. At least I don't have to lift and remove it or find a place to put it when working on the engine.
The bench is bolted to the rail attached to the hull with 2 wing nuts. Left wing nut and bolt removed. Right wing nut slackened. Large leg removed. Bench can now be pivoted over the starboard seat.
Attached to the underside of the bench are 2 short hinged legs that fold down and support the bench on the starboard seat.
When the bench is returned to the helm position, the short legs are folded up and held in place by an L-shaped bracket.
Hope that all makes sense.

[WillieC]

That sure looks slick. I did not think of that option, we have the same seat though not in such fine condition.

I think if I were trying to cut the fiberglass, I'd score the line reel gud with a carbide cutter like you'd use on formica, careful careful. Then masking tape the surface right up to the score line on both sides, giving yourself a good foot for the jigsaw base so it doesn't scratch everything up. Easy does it until you know how it is working. You will make a mess, use decent PPE.