Thumper 1975 25’ aft cabin mini pocket trawler

[Nancy]

I vote for a wired windlass remote, not wireless. Fewer things to go splash. Fewer batteries to be dead. Less technology connecting to the main unit (ever had bluetooth go weird on your phone? Same thing).

[Thumper74]

Well… my wish list is getting longer. But my NEEDS list is being added too….

Was surprised a bunch of wood is very reusable. Basically give it the one two three punch combo with a sander. Then, I haven’t made up my mind if I want it stained, varnished, polyurethaned, or use Contact Paper, or go to fabric store or hardware store and buy some kind of vinyl covering…. I’m pretty sure I don’t want to paint over the wood, but all things change with persuasion.
I have removed half of the v berth, labeled all pieces, put all brass and silver screws with each piece. The kitchen counter, and head remain in place. That is a jig saw puzzle for tomorrow. Sink and faucets will be kept, unless I can find replacements. The foot pedal pumps are operating. Although the fresh water will pump water out when you push down on the pedal. But as the pedal comes back to the up position water is still pumped out also. So further inspection maybe required???

The fresh water tank will be removed, thoroughly cleaned, inspected, and fittings replaced. New hoses with double stainless steel clamps. New through hull for salt water faucet with all new hardware. The valve that’s on there now is oh wow green…..

I have ordered Epoxy, filler, hardner, and butyl tape ( found a good price at local hvac and plumping supply company) to redo deck hardware locations. Which includes new counter-sink bits, some shiny drill bits. Still have to make the V-Berth water tight.

Once the counter jig saw puzzle comes out, and head, I will remove the padding and that wall covering. To bare fiberglass. I will use 1/2” black foam closed cell insulation. Also found a good deal on 3’wide sheets from previously mentioned above hvac supply house. Will use rubber cement to make sure it stays in place.

Also new berth lights. And lights around the kitchen sink area. Added plug in for those fancy phone chargers, speaker wires for the new radio. ( although the old radio still plays tunes) new lights in head.
Also there are curtain rods and curtain rod holders along the window on the starboard side only. The rods are made from very thin aluminum. I had visions of window tint to still allow light, but slow down some heat from coming in. Along with new curtains. It seems the front window was replaced with plexus glass material and bolted in with small bolts and nuts. No leaks. But I’ve been reading threads on window replacement and rubber replacements. So that is still uncertain. The port and starboard window is in good shape.


So as this weeks projects…….wires were removed back to basics. ( of course there might be a few that go in, under, around, and through places that haven’t been fully explored.) Everything that wasn’t nailed down came out of the boat. I have piles. Keep pile. Trash pile. And a either way pile. Of course anything in any pile may be placed into another pile, just to be sorted again. The V-Berth was dismantled to begin the cleaning and drying in process, along with painting and insulating.

I did find all sail equipment except for the spreader bars, ( half way up the mast?? ) and the screen covering. The eisen glass needs replaced due to being brittle and some how the canvas material shrank and will not line up the twist lock keepers. So finding a upholstery shop will be taking place during one of the next times at home. New cushions and coverings will be thought about at that time also. Along with wall covering.

Sheesh a boat will keep you busy.

[DesertAlbin736]

• Salt water thru hull for sink: I think I'd replace that bad boy!

• Fresh water tank removal: Be very careful. That shape tank is nearly irreplaceable short of somehow making a copy. Not likely to find a comparable off the shelf tank. You'll see what I mean when you get it out. You must remove just about everything in the front end of the cabin forward of the settees including the side shelves and the partition that creates the anchor locker space. The tank must be lifted straight up & out and the plywood panel at the back of the tank (shown in your photo) is glassed to the sides of the hull & is not removable short of surgery.

• You're lucky to have inherited sliding side windows in the wheelhouse. Expensive mod!

• On your galley water foot pumps, it's probably double acting & pumps on the down & up stroke. Our PO (or one previous to them) removed the saltwater tap & both foot pumps & added an electric RV pump for the fresh water. Not a pressurized on demand system but instead to operate the pump they installed a foot operated on/off button micro switch in the opening where the foot pump was. They had placed the 12V pump just ahead of the galley cabinet to suck the water from the tank which sometimes caused problems when the tank level was getting low & would lose prime, so I relocated it to just behind & below the tank so there's always a "gravity head" on the suction side. It's really handy, hands free & no pumping a pedal up & down.

• Replacing the interior hull liner material: Our PO had done an interior restoration & used white naughahyde imitation leather material with leather grain finish & it's held up well.

• On replacing canvas: Sailrite.com is a good source for material & supplies if you can beg, borrow, or steal a good walking foot sewing machine.

20191017_165518.jpg

20191017_165531.jpg

Bow water tank.jpg

Albin wardrobe.jpg

I have my own project coming up in the next few weeks. It's still hot out here, 95 ambient highs & 105 inside the closed up cockpit. So La Dolce Vita is laid on on the trailer for the summer, & every few weeks or a month or so I bring the boat over to the house, hook up my hose & bucket rig to the raw water system & run the engine for a few minutes until it's warmed up. This time I noted some traces of diesel in the bilge when I went to pump it out & left a sheen on the side walk. Could see some sign of diesel wetting the bottom under the tank which seeped into the bilge. So now it's time to empty & remove the tank for overhaul. That's something I haven't done in the 8+ years we've had the boat, so it's due. The tank was 3/4 full on the gage, which is about 16 gallons. I hooked up a siphon tube & drained fuel into my two 5 gallon jerry cans with about 5 or 6 gallons left in the tank (by calculation based on number of engine hours run since last fill up x 0.4 gph). Now I'll wait until I use up some of the fuel in my diesel pickup & transfer the fuel in that tank to empty the jerry cans and then drain the remainder of fuel in the boat tank & pull the tank. Luckily like everything in the A25 is fully accessible. Hardest part will be removing the fill hose.

[WillieC]

DA purdy much covered it. I’ll read it again tomorrow and see if I have anything hung to add. Ah yes! You will be amazed at how much of the wood you can salvage with, glue, clamps and tape, light sanding, a little stain of your own blending and polyurethane finish. That said, the next owner will prolly take a chainsaw to my handiwork

I must say you are making serious progress. All in good time. We should start a pool here on who’s going to be in the water first: you or Hetek. (Sorry, John. Just had to poke you!)

[Thumper74]

Well todays project is the “”NASTY”” one. A project that has me scratching the top of my head, as I figure out “”THE”” Head. As stated above, everything has to come out for new paint, insulation etc etc. So today is the day. Come to find out, it is a porta potty. Well with a twist. Or should I say a blender. It has the macerate on one side and another chamber on the other side. From my understanding it’s like a blender. Just dont try to make any docktails with it.

Here are some pictures, for comments, ideas, words of wisdom, how to’s, and what not to do’s….

How does a thru hull keep water from coming back into the boat?? My sink drains to the ocean via a thru hull. I thought if left open ocean water will flow back through??

The head has a hand pump connected directly to the porta potty tank. Then to a Y. From the Y to the macerator, which also drains to the ocean when your past the four mile mark and all that legal mumbo jumbo. On the third leg of the Y it attaches to the deck. Assuming for a pump out??

Ok I thought Y fittings are illegal now??
Why isn’t there a anti-siphon protection??
Purpose of the vent hose?? ( which is now a garden hose lol)….

Look at the pictures and feed me some knowledge nuggets.

[dkirsop]

The vent hose is to allow air to enter or exit the holding tank. By allowing air to escape during use it prevents pressure from building up in the tank as the water level rises. By allowing air to enter the tank when using a pump out facility it prevents the tank from collapsing.

The hose needs to be a sanitary hose to prevent odors from escaping into the cabin. A garden hose is not up to the job.

[Nancy]

What are those two gate valves???!! Scary!

[Thumper74]

What are those two gate valves???!! Scary!

Scary…. Most definitely. One was attached to sink drain. Other is discharging holding tank to ocean.

Very scary. I am not about to reuse any thru hull, gate valve, seacock, hose, or anything of the such. Im in too deep to half way do stuff. While i have everything uncovered and in the open, I will replace. Along with new bottom paint.

[Thumper74]

The heart beat of the “”ole”” boat. Soooo, guess in the next few trips back to home, I can have this thing thumping away in the carport.

Now if I could just find a place to get the old motor that’s in the boat rebuilt. Rumor has it, it sucked up sand and mud. Overheated. PO used bucket to scoop water on to head to cool. Well that cracked the head. Head is missing. And cylinder sleeve. I have a box of rings gaskets and few other assorted parts, new valves new rockers. I have the book for the ole “”G”” motor. Man it’s detailed. I have a line out for a SABB office somewhere in Florida. But I haven’t gotten to the motor section of my project yet, so not really much thought has been put into the old motor that’s already in place.

[WillieC]

I can’t quite see how the effluent gets from the turlet to the holding tank.

[Thumper74]

I can’t quite see how the effluent gets from the turlet to the holding tank.

Lol. I’m in agreement with you. I’m no plumber. But I do know hot is on the left, cold on the right, poop flows “”DOWN”” hill, you get paid on Fridays, and don’t chew on your fingernails.

That’s all I really know about plumbing. So I’m on the thread digging and reading. Listening to others.

Based on the laws of physics and gravity, I don’t see it going up the pipe to the macerator. Which is still brand new. Found some papers on it. Apparently a owner in between the pilot and me, or maybe a inheritance of the will person added it a few years ago. It is not from the pilot owner era. Porta potty might be. But macerator no.

[WillieC]

A line diagram might be helpful. Not that I could do one other than a real pencil and paper diagram...Like this:

IMG-6129.jpg

Maybe Thumper got halfway there and they ran out of gas?

[Thumper74]

A line diagram might be helpful. Not that I could do one other than a real pencil and paper diagram...Like this:

IMG-6129.jpg

Maybe Thumper got halfway there and they ran out of gas?

Well all of us on this forum will have me on straight course. You guys have helped a lot. I saved the drawing. Thank you. I can hopefully get it put back together to make it legal land sea going.

I’d hate to get on the water and and the coasties come aboard and start collecting revenue. Something about the discharge must be locked to keep from discharging at any time. Big fine. I’m just a poor man in Mississippi……

One section at a time. One day soon I’ll make a albin gathering. You’ll hear me thumping up the coast line and y’all will just smile. Remembering all these posts and how we all helped to get thumper back on the water.

[Thumper74]

Oh boy the plot thickens. Here’s something to make you ponder.

It seems ole thumper was down in seabrook tx. I found receipts for a whole rebuild from the crank up to head. Sleeve, piston, valves, gasket set, rocker arms, push rods, thermostat, etc… dated from 1988. A Mike Firestone ordered the parts had them air shipped. Cost $2,763.

So apparently ole thumper quit thumping along time ago. And the pilot used the sails. Which the sails are worn and show signs of use.

So from 1988, until records show the pilot taking ownership in 1994…. 6yrs. The pilot had family in Oklahoma. Oklahoma isn’t too far from Texas. Texas does have Air Force bases. But the pilots registered address was South Carolina.

Anyways I can almost rebuild the motor that’s in the boat. If I can find a replacement head. And probably a few more items.

[DesertAlbin736]

Ahh the head! Rube Goldberg would be proud of that setup! Easiest thing to do would be to scrap the whole rig & go with a composting head. The only place it's legal to discharge overboard, macerated or not, is out beyond the 3 mile limit in the ocean, or in your case Gulf of Mexico. Otherwise pump out at a marina dock. Depends on what your boating plans are. Day trips & occasional overnights to lakes like Okattibbee Lake you can get away with a porta potty. If you're trailering back & forth you from home you can dump the porta potty tank in the toilet at home. You could also do like WillieC has and add a holding tank connected to the porta potty. A lot of marinas don't like boaters dumping porta potties in bathroom toilets but others have a dedicated porta potty dump stations on the dock just porta potties. Longer cruises is another matter.

Here's what we have. Our boat came with a Groco HF marine head, 9 gallon holding tank, pumpout fitting, & Y valve. I upgraded to a 20 gallon holding tank which now takes up the space where batteries normally go, and batteries were relocated to starboard bench storage locker. The 20 gallon tank has a useful capacity of about 15 or so gallons since the hose inlets/outlets take up 2 inches each at bottom & top of the tank and won't drain the last inch or so of the bottom.

This was not a cheap project. The 20 gallon holding tank alone was $325, plus a lot of other expenses involved in relocating & upgrading batteries.

DSCN3423.JPG

Battery Well 1.jpg

DSCN3409 (1280x960).jpg

DSCN3419 (1280x960).jpg

20200114_175059.jpg