A25 Window replacement question

[SalishAire]

We used 1/4 acrylic on the side windows. The boat came to us with a new roll of rubber seal that I believe has a 1/4 inch gap on both sides. My solution that seems to have worked well (after reading many previous posts - thanks to everyone who contributed ideas through the years!) was to make a template of cardboard then a finer one of 1/4 plywood. The acrylic is easy to cut but expensive so we chose to go oversize and trim when it wasn't quite right (indicated by it wanting angle inwards even thought we were able to get the seal installed). To make sure the outer edge didn't leak with the previously noted variations in fiberglass thickness we used clear silicone (I'm not a fan of silicone on boats but it seemed right in this case and also acted as a lubricant BUT it does make a mess!!). For the window side I am a great fan of very hydrophobic and rubber preserving silicone grease (found in tiny containers in the plumbing section of any hardware store for lubricating O rings) so I used it as a lubricant (use very sparingly). Once I finally figured out how to use the filler strip installation tool purchased off Amazon the job really went fairly smoothly and we are quite happy with the results.

[SIMONET]

Could a owner confirm me the thickness of the 3 front cabin windows on the Albin 25 ? Mine is #1734, built in 1974. KUNTZE AB in Sweden is ready to deliver strip and lock strip but I have to precise them width and height !
I have the U.S. MECCOM profiles but it is not enough for a choice in the european range. Thanks for these data.

[Burton]

Yes to the counsel above.

Well, we really dreaded this job, too! But the old fore and aft windows were splitting in pieces. We glued them up to get a little more life out of them. But when we finally tackled it, it progressed quite well.

There are other (older) postings on this that are good to read. We had no problem with varying thickness of the fiberglass. I think a big mistake many have initially made is to use the old windows as a pattern. (The new seal is thicker in profile as to the amount of rubber between the window edge and opening). We taped the acrylic in place (duct tape) instead of making a separate pattern, then using a spacer that was sized the same as the depth of the new rubber seal, using a sharpie drew onto the acrylic backing plastic, then cut the lines on the bandsaw. Perfect fit after smoothing the edges a bit. Oh—on the aft cabin we did some filing of the ‘glass opening first as it was a bit crooked from the factory. Yes, two sets of hands is better but I did the aft cabin alone. I can’t imagine having sealant to fuss with, this is too “hands on” an inch at a time.

[Deepseated]

Thread update;
Mecom doesn't sell this weatherstrip any longer, here is an alternative link to this two part weather strip; https://www.perfectfit.com/Upholstery-S ... atherstrip

[WillieC]

I am planning on keeping my original rubber as it appears to be in decent shape. There is a bit of gappage in the overall length of the original rubber that I can only attribute to the ever expanding universe. (The lightly used toilet ring beeswax is still working just fine preventing leaks from the gap. Shout out to Shannon!)

All I need is the locking strip which is shredding itself to pieces as we speak. If I weren't tripping on the protruding shreds and lacerating my ankles I wouldn't even know it was failing. And I will need the installation tool.

I might replace the front and aft facing plexiglass since they are very cloudy, though they do provide privacy, like a frosted bathroom window. Remind me of the correct replacement product for this, please. It seems all plexi isn't the same.)

Is there an exact replacement for the original locking strip (A25) or is this the reason for doing the full replacement rubber with its matching new lock strip?

(Just looking forward to winter projects as the season winds down...GAAACK! I'll be improving this ole boat until the day I keel over or sell it.)

[dkirsop]

Use the AS-789 locking strip as a direct replacement for the existing Albin window seals. Several members from the BC Albineers have done this and it is on my list for fall/spring maintenance. This strip will also work with newer window seal used in my window replacement mentioned at the start of this thread.

There are two options for material suitable for the fore and aft window replacements. They are acrylic and polycarbonate (Lexan). Polycarbonate is easier to bend but is also easier to scratch. The acrylic is stiffer and harder. If using acrylic a 3/16" thickness will be easier to work with.

Other than that my comments at the beginning of this thread remain true. This job will go much easier with two pair of hands.

[WillieC]

Thanks, Dave. Winter proyecto...yuk

So is the AS 789 the same as Y-526-60?

[dkirsop]

I am not familiar with the Y-526-60.

[jerridsc]

I have quite a lot of leftover locking strip after replacing all glass and plexi window sealing gaskets. Hardest part of my refit so far, doing it all solo. Can donate to someone’s cause.

[WillieC]

Sign me up!

PM me. I hope it works. If not try here again

Thanks!