Inverter Charger

[Jkraft]

Thinking about putting an inverter/ charger on. I currently have 2 4D AGam batteries. I’m not really interested in adding a third battery and not interested in solar.

My calculations is as follows: Each Battery is 200 Amp. I plan on leaving my engine battery isolated. This means my inviter is being provided by a single 200 amp battery. When allowing 100 amps usage in order to leave 50% reserve power I come up with the following

Items to be left on All Night:
Fan- 73 Watts - 7 Amps
Phone Chargers- 20 Watts - 2 Amps
DC Powered Refrigerator- 4 Amps (when compressor is running)
Total Continuous Usage Items- 13 Amps. 100 Amp Battery Capacity / 13 Amps= 7.5 Hr Run Time

Intermittent Items to Be Used
TV- 50 Watts- 5 Amps
Lamp- 10 Watts- 1 Amp
Total intermittent Items to Be Used: 6 Amps. 100 Amp Battery Capacity/ 6 Amps= 16.5 Hr Run TIme
I would estimate that these two may get used a max of 2 Hrs Each

Intermittent High Draw Items To Be Used
Keurig - 1500 Watts - 138 Amps
Microwave- 800 Watts- 74 Amps
Total High Power Items to Be Used- 212 Amps. 100 Amp Battery Capacity/ 212 Amps = 45 Minutes
I would estimate using these for a max of 5 Minutes Each

Also the refrigerator is usually off at night because I won’t like hearing the compressor run.

So, based on this- Think it will work? This would be used in one night intervals only when at anchor.

[Pitou]

Looking at your requirements, the only things that I see you need AC power for are the Microwave and the Keurig, unless you really want to run an AC powered fan, but DC powered fans will be more efficient. Most small televisions actually run off of DC power and utilize AC power converted to DC.

In my 28, I had installed a Xantrex 1800 Pro Sine inverter in the head sink cabinet, this close to the House battery and had the fuse and switch installed in the step very close by requiring a very, very short run from inverter to fuse to switch. It worked great for the microwave and coffee pot. Everything else was powered by DC. For your application this would be a very satisfactory setup and enabling you to keep or upgrade your battery charger. You will also need a 3 - way: switch to select: Shore, Inverter, Off

The other option and as you suggest is to utilize a combination charger / inverter and wire the the inverter into your panel where the current charger is switched on your AC panel. In this case you will most likely not need the 3-way switch.

Either way and with the AC panel having only one leg the inverter will be providing AC power availability to your entire panel, but not adequate power for the hot water tank or the air conditioner. I'd advise that you consult a good marine electrician for your boat's application.

There's nothing like that first $3,000 cup of coffee!

[Jkraft]

Thanks Kevin! I would be hiring someone to install. Just brainstorming and planning at the moment. I have been spending more nights on the hook recently and often wirh I had AC power. I know I won’t have Air. I can warm the hot water heater with the engine if I need to so that’s no big deal, just takes a while. I can probably get coffee delivered to me for $3k!

[catalina_mike]

I would do a single inverter outlet for the microwave and series in one outlet for the coffeepot. Size the inverter for the highest load. Even if you were on shore power or running a Honda gen no switch changes would be required. Kevin is correct that DC devices are more efficient because of the energy lost during converting to AC. I did find a single k-cup that would run on our RV 1000 watt inverter. However the microwave will be a greater load then that.

[Jkraft]

I would do a single inverter outlet for the microwave and series in one outlet for the coffeepot. Size the inverter for the highest load. Even if you were on shore power or running a Honda gen no switch changes would be required. Kevin is correct that DC devices are more efficient because of the energy lost during converting to AC. I did find a single k-cup that would run on our RV 1000 watt inverter. However the microwave will be a greater load then that.

Thanks Mike, my keurig is also a single cup

[Jkraft]

I have done some more research on this and spoken with a few people. I think what would make the most sense is to use my current (2) 4 D AGM batteries as my "house" batteries and to add a group 31 battery as my engine start battery.

The Charger/ Inverter I am looking at is the mastervolt Powercombi 12/2000-100. This is a 2000 watt inverter & a 100 watt charger. This would be paired with the power combi master control panel.

[catalina_mike]

Just manage your load in the 110 breaker panel to not draw more than the 2000 watts. My 99 28TE had a 8D for house and a 31 for the engine. I used a promariner to charge both off the engine. Worked well but didn't use a inverter.

[Pitou]

I have done some more research on this and spoken with a few people. I think what would make the most sense is to use my current (2) 4 D AGM batteries as my "house" batteries and to add a group 31 battery as my engine start battery.

The Charger/ Inverter I am looking at is the mastervolt Powercombi 12/2000-100. This is a 2000 watt inverter & a 100 watt charger. This would be paired with the power combi master control panel.

The two - 4 D's will give you a nice robust house bank and the PowerCombi at 100 amp charging would seem well sized for this bank, but strong for the single Group 31 starting battery.

With a general rule of thumb of sizing battery chargers at 25% of amp hour capacity, have you considered the PowerCombi for the house bank and a separate 40 to 50 amp charger for the Group 31 start bank?

[Jkraft]

I have done some more research on this and spoken with a few people. I think what would make the most sense is to use my current (2) 4 D AGM batteries as my "house" batteries and to add a group 31 battery as my engine start battery.

The Charger/ Inverter I am looking at is the mastervolt Powercombi 12/2000-100. This is a 2000 watt inverter & a 100 watt charger. This would be paired with the power combi master control panel.

The two - 4 D's will give you a nice robust house bank and the PowerCombi at 100 amp charging would seem well sized for this bank, but strong for the single Group 31 starting battery.

With a general rule of thumb of sizing battery chargers at 25% of amp hour capacity, have you considered the PowerCombi for the house bank and a separate 40 to 50 amp charger for the Group 31 start bank?

That is actually a great idea. I could potentially use my existing charger for the group 31 and just add the powercombi for the 2 4D's. Thank you for the tip!