Albin 25 badges

[tribologist]

I sent you a pm

[DesertAlbin736]

I tried looking on that site but I can’t find a way to translate it to English.

Besides asking Ulf, aka tribologist, MS Word has a translator function. Copy & paste the text into a Word doc & use the translator function.

I looked into the cost of supplies & equipment necessary to make a silicone mold for lost wax casting (see YouTube videos in earlier posts). $18 is a mere pittance compared to what's needed to make a lost wax mold & pour pot metal into said plaster mold. I was going to go over to the my boat & pull the remaining starboard side emblem off my boat to experiment with pouring solder into a wax impression but lo & behold it's been raining here all day, something it hasn't done since we got back from NY in late August. The lot where we park the boat is dirt, the kind of desert clay that turns into a muddy mess when it does rain. But if it does let up I'll try to get over there later today (we're 3 hours behind east coast time). Meantime I may experiment by dripping solder into a clay impression of a coin or something.

[tribologist]

There are a lot of companies in this business. If we would do a larger order i think it would quite reasonable. A batch is in the $300-600 range

https://autobadges.com/emblems-badges/c ... blems.html


https://www.chromeemblems.com/custom/ch ... to-emblems

[DesertAlbin736]

If we would do a larger order I think it would quite reasonable. A batch is in the $300-600 range.

That's not surprising. Looking at the process on some of the YouTube videos out there on reproducing obsolete/unavailable emblems for antique cars it's quite time consuming & labor intensive going from making a silicone mold of the piece, doing 'lost wax' cast where you make a plaster cast/female mold of the pieces & use that to pour whatever sort of metal you want via a small foundry then having it chrome plated. Besides the kiln to bake the ceramic mold, a scale to measure out two part silicone mix, a bell jar vacuum pump to remove bubbles from the liquid silicone and the equipment needed to melt & pour metal, no wonder it's so costly.

Update: The MacGvyer idea of melting solder into a clay impression is a no go. Surface tension keeps the melted solder from flowing out & filling in the impression. I tried pulling the remaining emblem off the side of the cabin, but had used epoxy to secure the mounting posts into the side of the cabin top so it's stuck pretty good. I had neglected to do the same with the other one which is why it worked itself loose & disappeared during the last DA'ing road trip home.

It's a pretty simple design, 1.2" high Ariel font block letters with a bar underneath that the letters attach to, 1.4 inches high including the underscore bar X 6 inches long overall. If I had 3D rendering software it would be pretty easy to come up with something that could 3D print in plastic which would then be easy to coat with chrome spray paint. Wouldn't need to be metal.

[DesertAlbin736]

Slight update:

A friend is working on making a 3D print in plastic. He uses a drawing program that he has to sketch in by hand. The font is mostly simple sans serif block letters. The closest comparable MS font I could find is Brahnschrift Semi bold Semi condensed. Even that has to be stretched some to fit actual dimensions. My boat isn't a 'de Luxe' so I haven't looked into that other piece. Once he has the file perfected it can be duplicated at will & for a nominal fee for supplies + postage I could have copies made & sent to anyone interested.

This photo straightened. Printed out to actual size is 35mm high by 150mm long. (1.4 X 5.9 inches)

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A plastic 3d print could have mounting posts glued or epoxied to it & be painted with mirror chrome spray paint.

chromepaint.jpg

A clay impression from actual emblem, not very suitable for mold making but gives actual dimensions

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[Dieselram94]

Update: it looks like in a couple months these badges will be available in Sweden through the clubs website. They have a few badges now but they are not in perfect condition with some scratching. Looks like this might be the best option by far.

[DesertAlbin736]

I've downloaded the free Design Spark Mechanical CAD app to make a 3d printable drawing. I think it's similar to the program tribologist uses. Bit of a steep learning curve to figure how to do stuff on it. I used to work with AutoCAD before I retired but this is different & I've been away from CAD work for 11 years now & am very rusty. Once I get a drawing file done my friend up in Flagstaff can do a 3D print in plastic which would work fine, just spray paint with chrome paint.

[tribologist]

There is a free Autodesk app. Fusion 360. That might feel more familiar?

[DesertAlbin736]

Badges? We don't got no stinking badges!

My friend in Flagstaff, AZ came up with this plastic 3D print, drawn up in Design Spark Mechanical CAD software. He sent me this photo yesterday, I haven't seen it in person yet until the next time he comes down to crew on a PHRF spin fleet club race next weekend. I have a copy of that software on my desktop PC but it's not real user friendly & has a steep learning curve trying to figure out how to make the drawing.

Should be close to actual size & font. He only did the Albin 25 part & not the deLuxe badge because my boat is not a deLuxe variant. I

Part0_2.jpg

In this case the outer edges of the letters & numbers aren't beveled as in the actual badges. That could probably be corrected in the drawing file for another print or carefully trimming this piece with a Dremel tool. Then paint it with chrome spray paint.

chromepaint.jpg

This photo is of the remaining one on my boat with tape measure alongside for scale. That one I epoxied to the side of the cabin trunk & is stuck fast & removing it would likely destroy it. The one on the other side came loose somewhere, fell off, and was lost. The top edge of the "5" had broken off once before & repaired by epoxying some copper wire on the back to glue the broken piece to.

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[Albinfisher]

Does anybody know when the badges were changed from the solid bronze to the plated deluxe style on the deluxe hull? I have a deluxe hull and was told it was 1975 but the number plate is missing and my boat has the solid bronze badges.

[DesertAlbin736]

Does anybody know when the badges were changed from the solid bronze to the plated deluxe style on the deluxe hull? I have a deluxe hull and was told it was 1975 but the number plate is missing and my boat has the solid bronze badges.

My 1971 A25 has the plated style that looks like die stamped thin metal. If you're talking about the cast bronze name plate like this that's a different animal.

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My friend brought the plastic 3D prints of the cabin trunk emblems down the other day. They're close to scale but came out a bit larger than the original. Here's the 3D print version next to the original chrome plated version (which shows signs of pitting from age). Actually I like this bigger size better than the original. My friend give me two copies so I could replace the original with the matching pair of 3D print versions. I need to take a Dremel tool & carve the groove between the letters/numbers and the underscore bar & round the bottom right corner of the '5' before spray painting with chrome mirror gloss paint. He got the font and the horizontal distance close but the letters are a bit too tall. The design software he uses isn't very user friendly, not just a matter of picking the right font from a list like in MS Word or other word processor software & typing it in but has to be input from scratch as coordinates. I really haven't had time lately to mess with it and learn to draw it myself. We're going out on the lake next weekend (10/23) & need to get the boat ready & have been busy in the meantime overhauling bilge pumps. This weekend is busy with other things & also need to restock the boat for overnighting now that weather has finally cooled off. Although tomorrow & Sunday is supposed to get back up to a dry heat 90 degrees. Such is life in the desert.

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