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Windlass Replacment

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Jkraft
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Home Port: Chestertown, MD

Windlass Replacment

Post by Jkraft »

Hi all, my windlass has bit the dust. It may be fixable, but at 20 years old I can't see repairing this old undersized, underwired Simpson Lawrence. My options are a new Lewmar or a new GOOD Windlass. I already have the wireless remote and both options will work.

I am going to run new wires up to the new windlass, & replace what I assume to be the original chain and line as well.

My local electronics guy is recommending the Lewmar Pro Fish as he is installed multiple on 28 Albins and says he never has problems with them. He is a great guy and I do usually follow his opinion and he is yet to steer me wrong.

The GOOD windlass company will come down to MD from NJ to install and of course are recommending their product. The down side is that they are all the way up in NJ if I have a problem.

Any opinions are greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
USCG 100 Ton Master

Current boat:
"New Classic"
2006 31TE / Hull# 221
Cummins QSC 8.3 / 500 hp

Previous boats:
2002 28 TE with 315 Yanmar “Hair Of The Dog”
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Norseman
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Re: Windlass Replacment

Post by Norseman »

Cool: I got the ProFish 700.
They also come in the 1000 version.

(The 700 is strong as bull, never had a need for the 1000)
2001 28TE, 6LP-STE, 1,337 hrs, 19X18 four-blade wheel.
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GSSeattle
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Home Port: Anacortes Marina (Anacortes, WA)
Location: Seattle

Re: Windlass Replacment

Post by GSSeattle »

Replaced mine with the same model that was on it when I bought it (assuming it was about 20 yrs old when it froze on the previous owner) - Lofrans Dorado. Not the cheapest, but I've been happy with it. Surprisingly small footprint for the power.
Greg

2000 Albin 28 TE "Turtle Express"
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Tree
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Home Port: Portsmouth, UK
Location: Bordon, UK
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Re: Windlass Replacment

Post by Tree »

I have the opposite. I have the Good and getting parts from Tom this side of the Atlantic is only ever an issue with British customs - otherwise it takes three days to get stuff here when I’ve needed it.

That said - when the windlass motor does die again (usually the brush end cap burns out replaced two in 8 years and one full motor) I’ll be replacing with a Lewmar profish 1000.

My only reason is lewmar are local to me - they’re also a customer of mine and I can have replacement parts the same day.

The Good is a very powerful compact unit and the design had stood the test of time but for me, it is now the only part of the boat I need to import when it fails and that’s starting to become inconvenient.
Fisher Price 2
Hull Number AUL28489L900
Yanmar 6LP-STE
Built in Portsmouth RI, USA - Berthed in Portsmouth Hampshire, United Kingdom.
Jkraft
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Re: Windlass Replacment

Post by Jkraft »

Thanks guys! Great Info
USCG 100 Ton Master

Current boat:
"New Classic"
2006 31TE / Hull# 221
Cummins QSC 8.3 / 500 hp

Previous boats:
2002 28 TE with 315 Yanmar “Hair Of The Dog”
Nancy
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Home Port: Lake Champlain

Re: Windlass Replacment

Post by Nancy »

Last year, we replaced the original Simpson Lawrence 500 with a Lewmar Pro-Fish 700 horizontal windlass and Lewmar wired handheld remote. I love this system!

Heads up - you might want to reinforce your bow pulpit. See page 3 of this thread - viewtopic.php?f=5&t=11870&hilit=windlass
Nancy
2005 Albin 35CB
Yanmar 6LYA-STP 370
Valentine

Former boats
1995 Albin 28TE, Cummins 6BTA5.9 250, 2012-2022
1978 Trojan F32, 1998-2012
1983 Grady White 241 Weekender, 1988-1997
1980 Wellcraft 192 Classic, 1983-1987
Ben423
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Re: Windlass Replacment

Post by Ben423 »

I went with the Lewmar Pro 1000. It is power-up and power-down, while the Pro Fish is designed to free-fall. Either 1000 series windlass is a bit stronger than necessary for the A28, but I use a 22lb Rocna and lots of chain, and usually anchor in fairly deep water so I like the extra juice that the 1000 provides.
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Pitou
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Re: Windlass Replacment

Post by Pitou »

I"ll echo the kudos for the Lewmar 700 and 1000 series windlass. If you have the typical boat length of chain the Pro Fish is fine, but if you have or are planning to have a significant length of chain and you engage the Free Fall feature of the Pro Fish your rode will fly out and you won't want to try and stop it until you get to the rope section of your rode.

I have the Pro Fish 1000 with 120 ft. of chain and only once tried to stop the rode before all of the chain had come out .. never again. Things got pretty violent up at the pulpit ... I now operate the windlass as if it did not have the Pro Fish feature.
kevinS
>><<>>;>

Former Boats:

- 2006 31TE / Hull# 221
Cummins QSC 8.3 / 500 hp
December '13 - April '23

- 2002 / 28TE / Hull# 614
Cummins 6BTA 370 hp / Alaskan Bulkhead
April '04 ~ May '13
JMBoone
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Re: Windlass Replacment

Post by JMBoone »

You could go this route, not the cheapest but the best IMO
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Nancy
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Re: Windlass Replacment

Post by Nancy »

Ben423 wrote: Tue Sep 21, 2021 12:11 am I went with the Lewmar Pro 1000. It is power-up and power-down, while the Pro Fish is designed to free-fall. Either 1000 series windlass is a bit stronger than necessary for the A28, but I use a 22lb Rocna and lots of chain, and usually anchor in fairly deep water so I like the extra juice that the 1000 provides.
Our Pro-Fish 700 can free-fall, but it can also be powered down, and that's the default mode. I'd have to read the manual to even figure out how to do free-fall. I'd never want it except in an emergency.

We also have a 22lb Rocna, and so far, the 700 has been working like a champ. More is more, though. :)
Nancy
2005 Albin 35CB
Yanmar 6LYA-STP 370
Valentine

Former boats
1995 Albin 28TE, Cummins 6BTA5.9 250, 2012-2022
1978 Trojan F32, 1998-2012
1983 Grady White 241 Weekender, 1988-1997
1980 Wellcraft 192 Classic, 1983-1987
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