Exhaust renovation- no more Elastomuffle

[Plum76]

Do you guys have a recommendation for a 2" check valve for the wet exhaust? I'm replacing hose and thinking that it would be a good idea to install a check valve, I do not have anything preventing backflow of water at this point, aside from whatever incidental protection is provided by the elastomuffler..

I'm in the process of replacing hoses throughout, as some I do not have any idea on the age, and making those changes is super affordable and seems to provide good peace-of-mind..

Jason

[tribologist]

That centek you see in the picture is $126 at defender.

https://www.defender.com/product.jsp?na ... id=1656822

[tribologist]

And make sure to get ABA Scanvik hoseclamps and a 7mm flex driver for the one in the transom. That way you can leave the back panel in

[Plum76]

I've been sourcing these from the local goodyear hose place, they seem quite high quality and I've been using them where dual clamps are not fitting due to short hose connections (on the barb end).

https://goodyearrubberproducts.com/top- ... Clamps.asp

Jason

And make sure to get ABA Scanvik hoseclamps and a 7mm flex driver for the one in the transom. That way you can leave the back panel in

[tribologist]

Jason, that's terrible! 5/16... Its a swedish boat. You need Swedish made ABA for 7mm wrench!

LOL I like those! looks pretty good.

[Plum76]

Well, the new check valve is in the mail, figured I’d inspect the elastomuffle while changing hoses, could be that deleting mine is on the menu as well?



Guess I’ll look for a replacement, but not seeing them readily available anymore..

Jason

[tribologist]

Trash it and never look back…. If anything its quieter now with no baloon pounding on hull.

[ppaalo]

I also changed the Elastomuffle after reading some horror stories here and there. While at it, replaced shaft seal, cutless and raw water intake valve.

I went with the VETUS NLPH50 waterlock/muffler, fits perfectly.

alb_1.png

all of these were replaced

alb2.png

new muffler and ball valve

alb3.png

new shaft seal. Notice old shaft seal had an extra "fastener" in the hull, seeing that on Tribologist's boat also now gets me worried I will start having issues with shaft vibrations and then shaft alignment..

alb4.png

brand new cutless from Albin motor in Sweden

[WillieC]

Nice upgrades and repairs. Yes you will want to check your alignment.

I have always thought that the 30mm shaft spans too far from the coupling to the cutlass. Apparently there was originally an inner bearing at the upper end of the stern tube. I fashioned one out of an all rubber Beneteau cutlass and shoved it in the tube with a couple daubs of epoxy to hold it in place. I have almost forgotten about it. Then i did the shaft alignment. When we got the boat there was at least 1/4" runout/wobble of the shaft at the PSS seal. As Inspector Clouseau says, "Not anymore!"

[Burton]

Re. Straight pipe. The “football” on Slow Motion was suspect as well as the exhaust hose and outlet. All replaced now with just a straight pipe. It is louder than we like, but as we never had it in the water prior to the change to know if there is any difference. Next is new sound deadening in the engine box. Perhaps a muffler in the future, but the specs I’ve seen on the water lock type —can’t work due to not having enough height difference between outlet and exhaust.

[tribologist]

I also changed the Elastomuffle after reading some horror stories here and there. While at it, replaced shaft seal, cutless and raw water intake valve.

I went with the VETUS NLPH50 waterlock/muffler, fits perfectly.

alb_1.png
all of these were replaced

alb2.png
new muffler and ball valve

alb3.png
new shaft seal. Notice old shaft seal had an extra "fastener" in the hull, seeing that on Tribologist's boat also now gets me worried I will start having issues with shaft vibrations and then shaft alignment..

alb4.png
brand new cutless from Albin motor in Sweden

Love how that vetus look! Its no more expensive than the checkvalve I am using. https://www.defender.com/product.jsp?pa ... id=2026305


I did the numbers on mine. The resonance is at the engine RPM of around 2300-2700. the shaft critical is at about that speed too but since there is a 2.03 : 1 reduction the shaft is at about half the critical speed. Hovever! The engine is vibrating at the 1/rev of the engine rpm and that's why the shaft vibrates and not that it hit a critical speed. The Blackjack seal you have installed should provide as good damping as my extra bearing. It's a lot harder to damp out the first critical speed since that is self amplifying like a jumping rope. I have a PSS Dripless seal. They provide no damping whatsoever. I'm seriously thinking of remanufacture a original design seal with an oil lubed bearing and two radial lip seals and get rid of the extra bearing I have on mine.

[Dieselram94]

I also changed the Elastomuffle after reading some horror stories here and there. While at it, replaced shaft seal, cutless and raw water intake valve.

I went with the VETUS NLPH50 waterlock/muffler, fits perfectly.

alb_1.png
all of these were replaced

alb2.png
new muffler and ball valve

alb3.png
new shaft seal. Notice old shaft seal had an extra "fastener" in the hull, seeing that on Tribologist's boat also now gets me worried I will start having issues with shaft vibrations and then shaft alignment..

alb4.png
brand new cutless from Albin motor in Sweden

Love how that vetus look! Its no more expensive than the checkvalve I am using. https://www.defender.com/product.jsp?pa ... id=2026305


I did the numbers on mine. The resonance is at the engine RPM of around 2300-2700. the shaft critical is at about that speed too but since there is a 2.03 : 1 reduction the shaft is at about half the critical speed. Hovever! The engine is vibrating at the 1/rev of the engine rpm and that's why the shaft vibrates and not that it hit a critical speed. The Blackjack seal you have installed should provide as good damping as my extra bearing. It's a lot harder to damp out the first critical speed since that is self amplifying like a jumping rope. I have a PSS Dripless seal. They provide no damping whatsoever. I'm seriously thinking of remanufacture a original design seal with an oil lubed bearing and two radial lip seals and get rid of the extra bearing I have on mine.

Is that extra bearing you have something you installed? I’m thinking of doing this same thing to mine. Currently my motor is perfectly aligned but when I got it it was way off center and almost rubbing on the stern tube. I don’t think the motor ever was aligned since install as I had to elongate the holes on the motor mount ears on the motor to gain enough adjustment to center everything up. I’m concerned it will migrate out of alignment as it had several loose mount bolts when I got it. It’s a Perkins 4.108 with a 1.25” shaft

[tribologist]

The bearing was installed when i got it but was loose. I also had a cracked engine mount. Run much nicer now. I love to go back to the stock shaft seal/support bearing. Very nice design i think.

[A251975]

The Vetus catalog -page 70- has the original style self aligning shaft seal used on our Albins. 30mm is #ZWB30A.

[Plum76]

I have my engine cover in my garage getting it ready for new insulation, ordered some FATMAT materials, both the thin reflective weighted damper type materials and some replacement foam, figured doubling up wont hurt, and it is still ending up thinner than the original foam that was in there. Between that and ditching the clapped out elastomuffler, hoping for significant reduction in cabin noise. It's not so loud we need earplugs, but it would be nice to have less engine noise to talk over..

Jason

Re. Straight pipe. The “football” on Slow Motion was suspect as well as the exhaust hose and outlet. All replaced now with just a straight pipe. It is louder than we like, but as we never had it in the water prior to the change to know if there is any difference. Next is new sound deadening in the engine box. Perhaps a muffler in the future, but the specs I’ve seen on the water lock type —can’t work due to not having enough height difference between outlet and exhaust.