Hatching Of The Wren: my A25 restoration thread

[tribologist]

I saw some minor voids where expected like in the corners etc. I did not sand far into the gelcoat so i will never know and thats good!

[DesertAlbin736]

Fun fun! I did, or more accurately, had my topsides repainted (partially hired, partially with me lending a helping hand) in 2019. Used Interlux 1 part deck paint. Labor intensive because of of the POs had done a sloppy job of rolling/brushing some time in distant past & left ugly brush marks. That was done almost two years ago to the day .

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This April more small projects recently completed, replacing the aged VHF whip antenna that had fraying coax cable & looseness where the f/g attaches to the metal base where it screws into the mount.. It could have been and probably was up to or even over 20 years old. Then yesterday I pulled my three now 5.5 years old AGM batteries & had them load tested at an auto parts store. As suspected they tested BAD. Ouch, $642 out the door for a new set of three Group 27 Duracell AGMs.

Also completed my latest canvas sewing project, a cover for our Gig Harbor dinghy, designed to be able to be installed & removed while the dinghy is hanging on the davits. On this year's planned ultimate "DA'ing" trip to the east coast we're sure to run into some heavy rains along the way.

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The design was a modified version of a Sunfish Sailboat cover project on Sailrite's how-to videos

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[Dieselram94]

That cover looks awesome!!!

[WillieC]

Yes, indeed! Very nice work.

[nebulatech]

I'm now prepping the deck for painting. I'm going to do the foredeck first back to the wheelhouse, next the bilge area, and lastly the wheelhouse, aft coach roof, aft deck. I'm spraying with a 2 quart pressure pot. I plan to buff out the overspray where one painted section meets the next. I saw a Youtube video where a fellow used Alexseal and a product called "soft sand" to do his nonskid. I'm thinking about giving it a try:
http://www.softsandrubber.com/softsand/

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8J_z2MjE-0g

I've had terrible luck with nonskid using the mix-in-the-paint method, so I was going to try this soft sand and broadcast it on the foredeck hatch. Does anyone have any pointers?

I also plan to rework the deck drains. I'm going to actually glass up the through deck holes, and cut channels out that will go in the new sapele rubrail. I'll take some good pictures throughout the process.

I know this thread is titled "hatching of the wren," but in this picture, she seems to be going back into her shell. Actually my wife and neighbors, separately, made comparisons to Noah's Ark. I plan to drop off my deck paint color sample on Monday and pick up the primer. Hope to have something good to show you all next week.

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[Dieselram94]

Looking forward to seeing your latest progress!

[nebulatech]

A couple of questions are at the end of this post - seeking opinions please!

Not much of an update, but I wanted to share my experience removing the windows on the coachroof. I spent about 30 minutes prying out the dry rotted locking strip on the forward window. I then found out that my trusty 5 in 1 scraper could just cut the gasket material without bothering with the locking ring. The two side windows took about 10 minutes combined. Here's a picture of the technique for reference:

20210510_162117.jpg

I also wanted to share the removal of the metal "Albin 25" and "deluxe" lettering. I was very nervous that I would break it. I used my trusty 5 in 1 and carefully worked them loose. The larger piece has 3 ring shanked pins, and the smaller has two pins. Plus a bunch of dried up goop:

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Here's a pic of the boat. Later today I will be cutting the new drains and doing some fiberglass repair:

20210510_172056.jpg

As an afterthought, here's the sapele mahogany for the rubrail and anchor platform. The bottom pieces are 3" thick and will be sawed to 1/8" strips to be layed up in layers for the bow rail:

20210511_083558.jpg

QUESTIONS:

• Replacing the windows, I have access to several pieces of 1/4" plexi, 1 foot x 8 foot. I'm considering replacing the glass with plexi for safety. Thoughts?
  I'm considering adding some window tint to the windows. Anyone have some experience they want to share?
  Regarding the small name plates, does anyone have ideas for refinishing? I planned to soak them in solvent to remove the old adhesive. My thoughts include painting them ,sending them off for re-chroming, possibly electroplating, or some way to DIY for either of the last two. DIY not because I'm cheap (I AM!), but because I like to learn new stuff.

Thanks to all for your interest and any thoughts you'd like to share!

[jerridsc]

Since your going the outboard route, I thought you might be interested in seeing what I came up with. Your attention to detail and quality are exemplary. First photo is a plywood mock up. 2nd and 3rd the result.

[tribologist]

• Replacing the windows, I have access to several pieces of 1/4" plexi, 1 foot x 8 foot. I'm considering replacing the glass with plexi for safety. Thoughts?
  I'm considering adding some window tint to the windows. Anyone have some experience they want to share?
  Regarding the small name plates, does anyone have ideas for refinishing? I planned to soak them in solvent to remove the old adhesive. My thoughts include painting them ,sending them off for re-chroming, possibly electroplating, or some way to DIY for either of the last two. DIY not because I'm cheap (I AM!), but because I like to learn new stuff.

Thanks to all for your interest and any thoughts you'd like to share!

There are quite a few A25 on the "Albin 25 ägare" on faceboook that has tinted windows. They look very good!

I think it would be questionable to replace the front windshield with a 1/4 plexi. Maybe with 5/16 . If you plunge it through a wave or fall against it or something its easy to buckle/crack it. Plexi is not that stiff. The curve help a lot but unless your glass is very bad I would just re-install it. One less thing... Lexan is even more flexible. I think you can bring the window to a tint place before installing. Its so cheap having it done so its questionable to DIY. Its like the screen protectors on the phone... Every time I do it I get dust under. If the guy at Best buy mess it up they re-do it...

By the way, do buy the insertion tool, the good one that is cast. It makes it trivial to install the locking strip.

[tribologist]

Tonade rutor is tinted windows

[Dieselram94]

Since your going the outboard route, I thought you might be interested in seeing what I came up with. Your attention to detail and quality are exemplary. First photo is a plywood mock up. 2nd and 3rd the result.

Is your swim deck strips of starboard? I like that, looks very clean.

[Dieselram94]

A couple of questions are at the end of this post - seeking opinions please!

Not much of an update, but I wanted to share my experience removing the windows on the coachroof. I spent about 30 minutes prying out the dry rotted locking strip on the forward window. I then found out that my trusty 5 in 1 scraper could just cut the gasket material without bothering with the locking ring. The two side windows took about 10 minutes combined. Here's a picture of the technique for reference:

20210510_162117.jpg


I also wanted to share the removal of the metal "Albin 25" and "deluxe" lettering. I was very nervous that I would break it. I used my trusty 5 in 1 and carefully worked them loose. The larger piece has 3 ring shanked pins, and the smaller has two pins. Plus a bunch of dried up goop:

20210510_145119.jpg
20210510_145127.jpg
20210510_145217.jpg

Here's a pic of the boat. Later today I will be cutting the new drains and doing some fiberglass repair:

20210510_172056.jpg

As an afterthought, here's the sapele mahogany for the rubrail and anchor platform. The bottom pieces are 3" thick and will be sawed to 1/8" strips to be layed up in layers for the bow rail:

20210511_083558.jpg

QUESTIONS:

• Replacing the windows, I have access to several pieces of 1/4" plexi, 1 foot x 8 foot. I'm considering replacing the glass with plexi for safety. Thoughts?
  I'm considering adding some window tint to the windows. Anyone have some experience they want to share?
  Regarding the small name plates, does anyone have ideas for refinishing? I planned to soak them in solvent to remove the old adhesive. My thoughts include painting them ,sending them off for re-chroming, possibly electroplating, or some way to DIY for either of the last two. DIY not because I'm cheap (I AM!), but because I like to learn new stuff.

Thanks to all for your interest and any thoughts you'd like to share!

I would stick with the glass. It’s lasted this long and I believe it’s safety glass anyways. It also does t scratch/scuff or age like plexi does. I wish the front and back windows were glass as well. But if it was mine it would definitely get tint.
I don’t have much input on the finish for the badges though. I’d be tempted to send them out to be replated. Can’t wait to see the rub rail!

[jerridsc]

The actual swim platform is built of treated 2x6, lap (or scarf) jointed , guerrilla glued and stainless screwed. Well supported above and below to the strongest areas of the boats transom. The pvc on top is just a cladding for a more finished look.

[dkirsop]

Re: Glass
It is automotive safety glass. Look carefully and you will find the manufacturers name etched near a corner of each window. The manufacturer is a French company, still in business, that supplies glass for many auto companies. I recommend you keep the glass as it provides significant structural strength to the cabin roofs.

[nebulatech]

Sorry, I wanted to sit at my computer to reply to everyone, and I haven't had a chance to sit down and do it until now.

Lots of good support for keeping the glass. I guess I will do that! My calipers show the front glass to be 3/16" (or the metric equivalent), and the same with the side glass widndows, so I was planning to do 1/4 because I can get it for free (I cut all of the plexi for my kids' school's COVID-related stuff last fall, and there's plenty of fall-off). Tribologist, are you saying the front coachroof plexi should be thicker than 1/4, or were you talking about the windshield? I plan to make a 3 section windshield, with the middle pane tilting aft in at the top for airflow. The windshield glass will be thicker than 1/4" and probably glass.

Thanks for the tip about going to the local tint shop. There's one on the highway a few miles from the house. I'll pay them a visit.

Jerridsc, I like your setup. I wish I could weld aluminum, or even find someone to do it cheap. Around here, the people who can TIG 6061 want top dollar, and boats aren't a novelty enough to make them do it cheap just to help out. I'm interested in the size of the fasteners you're using to hold the aluminum plate to your swim platform. I've been feeling antsy about using 4 1/2" bolts. I'm also interested in how you supported your platform on the inside of the transom. Mine's all stripped out at the moment, but yours is probably put together. Any chance you have some photos of when you did the install?

One last question for Jerridsc, did you end up using the internal 20 gallon tank for gas and installing a bilge blower? I haven't started searching for one yet, but it never hurts to plan ahead. Well, it hurts the wallet....

Thanks again all!

Rainy day today, but yesterday I filled all the holes with thickened resin. Tomorrow I hope to be sanding, primer on Friday.