Albin 27 re-power options

[REO]

Jig is under construction. Beta Marine sent a working drawing for the 50 with mechanical transmission and 22 inch wide mounts, so I now have all the dimensions. Wish I had a metric tape measure. Converting everything is a pain.
Closer inspection looks like I am going to have to modify the stringers. The Lehman motor mounts could swivel to accommodate the angle of the stringer. The Beta mounts are fixed. It also looks like I am also going to have to reposition the seawater strainer. It's also going to be a tight fit for the sea water wash down pump and the seawater/ freshwater hoses and pump for the Raratan Elegance toilet. I'm learning as I go. Sure glad I'm not in a hurry.
SkipD
Who did you work with at Beta Marine?

[SkipD]

The drawings I used had both the metric/english dimensions, don’t know how these might have changed with the models over the past few years. Image attached is the main drawing I used.
For support I worked in the pre-sales/sales process with Stanley. For installation I relied on local resources, Beta installation/operators manual and the Beta Marine forum.
Like any big project the design stage is perhaps the most frustrating but the most important, sounds like you’re making good progress.

[REO]

SkipD
Thanks for the drawing. I will finish my jig today and see if it fits. I hope that I will not have to cut the stringers down to get the shaft flange to line up, but that is what the jig is for, and I am happy to find it out before the engine is hanging over the stringers.
I plan to have one more discussion today with Farron at Beta Marine before finalizing the order. Here is what I am planning to order:
Beta 50 with mechanical transmission
High rise water injection elbow
water feed kit for stern tube
R&D flex coupling
Hot water tank connectors
remote header tank (maybe)
oil filter re-locator kit
120 amp alternator
control panel with temperature gauge (maybe)

[WillieC]

How much of anything is the prep? You are doing good, hard work right now with a vendor who depends on your success. Stay with it.

[SkipD]

List looks thorough. I have a very basic configuration (70 amp alternator, no hot water hookup) so it’s tough to comment . I do like the C instrument panel and the TMC 60. I used the original bronze stuffing box which has worked fine. Did repack it and replaced the hose. After some adjusting it keeps a steady low temp and minimal drip. One thing I added in the second season was a remote coolant overflow tank. Nice to easily see coolant levels and keep any overflow out of the oil pan.
Remembered on resources, there were 2 books that I used that provided good guidance or insights. One was “Replacing Your Boat’s Engine” by Mike Weston and the other “How to Install a New Diesel Engine” by Peter Cumberlidge. The Weston book was part of a series (interior, electrical, etc) that has good photos and checklists.

Hope this helps.

[REO]

Made a few changes and ordered the engine today. The remote oil filter kit was too pricey and I found that I can use the standard 17.5 inch mounts. But wait! I did a careful measurement and it looks like the standard oil pan is too deep. To fit it in I will have to move the engine way forward and get a longer shaft. Even then it is a squeeze. Is my boat different than others? The shaft is about 3/8" off center in the hull, which is just enough to throw things off. I'm concerned about a tight fit , but I wish I could fit the standard pan in. I'm going to ask Beta Marine to see how often the shallow pan is ordered for Beta 50's in Albin 27's.

[SkipD]

I have the shallow sump, might have barely gotten away with the full size, but no regrets. I installed a Python-Drive CV joint which pushed the engine forward and more forward meant less clearance for the sump.My shaft was also off center, cannot recall how much, but somewhere in the 1/4” to 1/2” area.

[REO]

That makes me feel a lot more comfortable about my install. The standard oil pan was going to be very close to the inside of the hull, if it cleared at all. The shallow sump will fit with no problem. I also like having a bit more room at the front of the engine for maintenance. I am going to have to do some modifications to the stringers to fit the narrower motor mounts. For now the next several days are bilge cleaning days.

[REO]

Bilge is clean and the jig is mounted. I had a very frustrating day trying to fit the new shaft flange. After several calls to Beta discussing possible burrs on the shaft, a possible metric off sized shaft and how much "tapping" was too much, we determined that the flange was manufactured just a bit too small. I'm going to have to have it honed to the correct size next week.
The engine will now fit about four inches from the front bulkhead, three and a half with a half inch of insulation. I think that's enough room to get the seawater impeller out without too much trouble?? Maybe not. Moving the engine back will require removing the rudder, pulling the shaft and having it shortened. The stringers get shorter and sit on the hull at a bit more of an angle as they move back. I don't think the shorter part of the stringer is appreciably weaker. I'm a bit undecided about doing what looks like a lot of work for a small benefit

[motthediesel]

I don’t know how much room you have under the boat, but I found that removing the rudder was easier than I feared. I did have trouble pulling the shaft though, a build-up of scale and grunge inside the stern tube caused the shaft to bind in the cutless bearing.

Would it be worth it to make front engine servicing easier? I don’t know, that’s your call.

[nebulatech]

I had a diesel mechanic tell me it was OK to cut the shaft with a hack saw because he "does it all the time." Maybe you don't have to pull the rudder and shaft? I seriously don't know.

[SkipD]

Measured the distance today from the Beta 50 to forward bulkhead and it was 5.5 inches. Note, I have the PythonDrive CV joint pushing the engine forward a good 8 inches.
Regarding the shaft, with the engine out, I pulled it out through the compartment. There is a mid-shaft bearing which rotated a bit allowing the necessary angle. Shaft is 79” length.

[REO]

Very interesting thoughts. I'm going to measure again, but I don't see how I could get the shaft out forward. My boat was modified to fit a generator room in the middle of the cockpit. That may have moved the aft bulkhead forward enough to make forward removal impossible.
The idea of cutting the shaft off an inch in place is also interesting. I'm not sure i have the energy to cut that much stainless steel, but it's under consideration. More than an inch would necessitate cutting a new slot for the square key.
I measured the clearance from the bulkhead to the impeller housing on my old engine, and it was about 3.5 inches. Maybe I'm worrying about something that isn't an issue, but 5.5 inches sure sounds convenient.
I cut the first stringer down to match the jig motor mounts. I am making the stringers 2 inch wider with solid oak extensions. Cutting one stringer took most of the day, and made a big mess. I'm going to rest and ruminate on the latest ideas for a few days. Thanks for all the input.

[nebulatech]

I was just thinking that a pipe cutter may work to score a line on the shaft. That would keep it even. (In or out of the boat)

[REO]

The stringer modifications are coming along. I found that I had to cut the stringers down by about an inch. I have fitted a two inch solid oak extension to the inside of both stringers to accommodate the standard motor mounts. I am finding it a bit difficult to get the stringers exactly the correct level at all four mounts. The jig titters. I have made some shims that will be glassed in on top of the stringers to stabilize the whole thing. The oak will be lag screwed and epoxy glued in place.

20210520_104402.jpg

Everything will then be leveled off and glassed in. The original stringers were encapsulated with about a quarter inch of fiberglass. I don't know what they used, but it was rock hard and made a colossal mess when I cut into it.
I have decided not to cut the shaft. I think the engine placement with the existing shaft is as far back as I want to get it. spoke to Stan at Beta, and he recommended that I cut an indentation in the forward bulkhead to create a bit more room to work on the impeller. I'm going to make it removable and sound insulate the removable panel. I'll post a picture when it is done.