Going through all the through hulls on my boat (purchased last spring) before launch. The head discharge and intake were both frozen open. I got them both moving now with Liquid wrench and some time. The discharge seacock is a almost there but it wont close 100%. The stops on the handle prevent the full closure.
Now I never use the discharge although its nice to have in a pinch. The intake is also unused as the head is fresh water. I just want them to close fully and then leave them that way except for periodic cycling so they stay working.
So the question is why are the stops preventing the full close and full open? Is it bent? I’d rather not go through all the trouble of removing them. If i did i would probably just eliminate them completely. I never plan to add a Geny or AC so no use for them.
Also. If i did just remove them and glass up the holes. Couldn’t i then get rid of all the hoses Y valves and just have the head empty into the holding tank? Has anyone replaced the tank with a bit larger capacity? Seems there will be alot more room once all the over board discharge is eliminated.
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Head discharge seacock closes 90%
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- Norseman
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Re: Head discharge seacock closes 90%
All seacocks should close 100% and 90 degrees.
Not sure if you mean holding tank discharge, or head discharge, some of these boats had the option. (My 2001 28TE have both)
I would not remove the seacocks and glass over.
Cheaper and better to remove and replace the sea cocks if needed, also good for resale value.
Perfectly safe to cruise with seacocks in the closed position.
Not sure if you mean holding tank discharge, or head discharge, some of these boats had the option. (My 2001 28TE have both)
I would not remove the seacocks and glass over.
Cheaper and better to remove and replace the sea cocks if needed, also good for resale value.
Perfectly safe to cruise with seacocks in the closed position.
2001 28TE, 6LP-STE, 1,337 hrs, 19X18 four-blade wheel.
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Re: Head discharge seacock closes 90%
Yes. Its the heads holding tank discharge seacock that only closes 90%. If i could get it to close completely I wouldn’t replace it. I am wondering why it doesn’t close all the way. The valve handle hits the stops At 90 degrees but the ball is open a bit. Mine is a 2002 28 TE. It has two Y valves. One under the heads sink and one under the helm chair. I never discharge out so i was thinking of eliminating everything besides the tank and the deck pump out.
- Pitou
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Re: Head discharge seacock closes 90%
My holding tank overboard discharge valve was the same way in not fully closing and only discovered when I was replacing all head hoses. As I use it to discharge, I chose to replace with a new mushroom thru hull , tail piece and valve. The project was actually pretty easy and routine. After the ball valve was removed and inspected there was no explanation as to why it would not fully close.
Dag is correct, replacement will be better for resale.
You probably understand your Y - valves, but if not .. the one under the head sink diverts to either the holding tank or directly to your overboard discharge. The Y - valve under the helm seat chooses the outflow from the tank to either pump out or to the macerator pump and then overboard.
Hear are a couple of pictures of my discharge valve replacement (31 TE):
Dag is correct, replacement will be better for resale.
You probably understand your Y - valves, but if not .. the one under the head sink diverts to either the holding tank or directly to your overboard discharge. The Y - valve under the helm seat chooses the outflow from the tank to either pump out or to the macerator pump and then overboard.
Hear are a couple of pictures of my discharge valve replacement (31 TE):
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kevinS
>><<>>;>
Former Boats:
- 2006 31TE / Hull# 221
Cummins QSC 8.3 / 500 hp
December '13 - April '23
- 2002 / 28TE / Hull# 614
Cummins 6BTA 370 hp / Alaskan Bulkhead
April '04 ~ May '13
>><<>>;>
Former Boats:
- 2006 31TE / Hull# 221
Cummins QSC 8.3 / 500 hp
December '13 - April '23
- 2002 / 28TE / Hull# 614
Cummins 6BTA 370 hp / Alaskan Bulkhead
April '04 ~ May '13
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- Home Port: Connecticut
Re: Head discharge seacock closes 90%
Ok. I was able to remove both seacocks today. The 1-1/2” overboard discharge and the 3/4” sea water head supply. It was pretty easy once i heated up the valve with a 100 watt bulb ( trick an old guy showed me once) just lean the bulb against the bronze for a few hours. It softens the bedding compound just enough. Safer than a torch. Anyway they are both out and now i can replace them. The through hull fitting stayed firm in the hull when i turned the seacock out of its male threads. Of course i held back with another wrench. So I won’t change that. My guess is they used 5200 on the through hull and 4200 or similar on the seacock flange.
Thanks Pitou for the explanation and the photos. I didn’t know for sure how it was plumbed but now its clear. On my boat. The macerator power leads are disconnected and feeding the fresh water head that was installed later. So my choices are. Direct discharge via the y valve under the sink or flush into the holding tank then pump out at the gas dock. I have never discharged overboard but its a nice option when the tiny holding tank is full. Especially when its just pee. I have the Y-valve zipped tied so hopefully that will be enough for the CG.
Thanks Pitou for the explanation and the photos. I didn’t know for sure how it was plumbed but now its clear. On my boat. The macerator power leads are disconnected and feeding the fresh water head that was installed later. So my choices are. Direct discharge via the y valve under the sink or flush into the holding tank then pump out at the gas dock. I have never discharged overboard but its a nice option when the tiny holding tank is full. Especially when its just pee. I have the Y-valve zipped tied so hopefully that will be enough for the CG.