Outboard Powered

[REO]

I am trying to decide between a re-power with a Beta diesel or outboard for my Albin 27. I wanted to go electric since I have a new Panda 6.5 kw generator, but after several discussions with a major supplier I am convinced that the electric option only works for short distance marina to marina runs and harbor cruises. My generator can not keep up with the current draw for any distance. Running a generator to recharge the batteries after anchoring is not attractive.
The outboard option is interesting. Ranger tugs switched to outboard power. and many semi-displacement cruisers also seem to be making that change. I wonder if they change the hull design or just power over hull speed?
A few questions:
How did you change the fuel tank from diesel to gas? I have a 100 gallon tank that is not easily drained.
Did you cap the prop shaft hole?
Did you remove the rudder and cap that hole, or is a rudder locked in straight forward position desirable?
Was the steering and throttle system hard to fabricate?
The outboard switch looks attractive, but when I compare the easy switch with the $14,000 Beta with the tricky switch with a quality 50 hp 4 stroke outboard I'm not sure which is better. I suspect that the cost may be about the same for either.

[jerridsc]

When I received my A25, the tank had been removed and scrupulously cleaned by PO, easy to do with it outside the boat. Not sure how hard it would be to clean in place. Removed prop and shaft, covered hole with well bedded PVC blank. Also removed rudder. Glassed rudder through hull opening, inside and out. All in with motor, control box, cables and new helm (see previous reply for more info) I’m at @3000.00. If cost is your only issue, no way would you have to spend $14,000 to convert. There are many other issues to consider in your decision. Battery charging being just one, which may add to cost too.

[nebulatech]

I am trying to decide between a re-power with a Beta diesel or outboard for my Albin 27. I wanted to go electric since I have a new Panda 6.5 kw generator, but after several discussions with a major supplier I am convinced that the electric option only works for short distance marina to marina runs and harbor cruises. My generator can not keep up with the current draw for any distance. Running a generator to recharge the batteries after anchoring is not attractive.

REO, I was planning to do an electric conversion with my A25. I went as far as getting the reduction gear and batteries. Covid-19 put a hold on my plans as the supplier was out of stock and things were on backorder. I don't like spending money on backordered stuff:
https://www.thunderstruck-ev.com/electr ... -motor-ev/


My original plan was to have two banks of 4 12v batteries (two 48v arrays) with an A/B switch. When bank A was depleted, it was time to come home. This would suffice for short range harbor trips. For cruising, I had planned to swap one of the banks for a NextGen 3.5kw generator, which would just barely fit under the helm. This would put out around 65amps @ 48vdc, which would be enough to make 5-6 knots with a 10kw 48 volt motor (estimate accounting for inefficiencies in conversion). I decided to do some reading up on the generator. The NextGen got decent reviews, except nearly everyone who had one stated that it was intended for topping off batteries at day's end, but not intended to run 8-10 hours/day. A real shame, because at 0.2 gph fuel consumption, it could run for 100 hours (laboratory environment) with the A25's 20 gallon tank. That's a very respectable range.

Your Panda 6.5kw should be able to put out over 100 amps @ 48 volts, which is about the max constant current you would want going to a 10kw motor (according to the guys at Thunderstruck). It is my understanding that a 48 volt system could push an A27 at hull speed. There are several sailboats here in Charleston that have done the electric conversion. The biggest problem they report with electrical propulsion is corrosion, mostly with the motor and controller. These were Thunderstruck units. I think the Elco motors and controllers are completely sealed, but they are as expensive as a new diesel.

The disheartening reviews of the NextGen had me seriously rethinking my program. About this time, jerridsc posted his favorable review with his 25hp outboard. An inboard diesel is out of my budget (my wife would kill me), so the outboard looked like an attractive option. I currently have a new 25hp Suzuki in a crate in my garage. I'm committed to the outboard approach. However, at this time I do not plan to remove my rudder or shaft. I'm still also committed to the electric option and plan to install an electric motor as well for testing/short range backup. There are some interesting developments in battery technology and I believe that in the next 5 years, an electric option will be more feasible. We'll have to see how much steering control I have at low speeds with the rudder, but most small sailboats use outboard auxiliaries, so I think we'll be OK.

Regarding cost of the outboard conversion for an A27, the list price for a Suzuki 50hp is around $8k, not counting controls, cables, tank cleaning and conversion, outboard bracket etc. That motor weighs about 230lbs, which is not too terrible. One thing to always consider when doing an outboard conversion is the redistribution of weight. Removing the inboard throws off the balance of the boat, and adding weight beyond the transom can have a significant effect on performance and safety. Newer boats designed for an outboard have added displacement aft. There have been cases of converted boats with open aft cockpits getting swamped and sinking from a breaking following sea. I don't think swamping is a problem for an A27 with a 50hp outboard. I'm thinking more along the lines of twin 250's at 600+ lbs each, but performance and safety are important considerations. The Suzuki DF50 alternator puts out 19 amps, so you would have to run your generator more often. You would need to carry both gas and diesel. Of course, there ARE diesel outboards...

[REO]

You bring up lots of interesting issues. I have struggled with most of them over the past several months. Sorry for the slow response. In the end I am leaning heavily toward a new Kubota diesel. We are building the boat for long distance cruising, and that seems the most reliable and conservative approach, since the boat is already proven to work well with this setup.
The issue for me is how to do the swap. Nobody near here is likely to want to do the job, so I guess I will tackle it myself. I've done lots of stuff, but the heavy grunt work and getting it out past the center post will not be fun for me.

[DesertAlbin736]

The issue for me is how to do the swap. Nobody near here is likely to want to do the job, so I guess I will tackle it myself. I've done lots of stuff, but the heavy grunt work and getting it out past the center post will not be fun for me.

Just be careful & work safely. WillieC has done an engine swap himself on an A25 & maybe could provide some tips & advice.

[Dieselram94]

The kubota is a very reliable and efficient engine. I can’t see any battery technology ever being competitive as far as cost vs range. Also important to consider resale value, I’m guessing that a conventional diesel inboard is way easier to sell than a electric conversion. Electric is nice as it’s almost silent, but the range just isn’t there.

As a side note, does anyone have any idea how much weight the 25 can take for a outboard on a bracket? Is the fiberglass rugged enough without reinforcement?

[Ambler27FC]

REO, I just repowered with a Beta, and after 160 hrs am very happy. It is a safe bet. Simple engine, I think an honest and supportive company, and very good maintenance features. A Good direction for long distance cruising.

If you walk that path, consider the extended exhaust riser as required (by my measurements). My engine was closer to the aft engine compartment than some, and I had to have the riser cut and re-welded at 90 deg for clearance.

The only challenging part of the job is getting the engines in and out of the cockpit, like you say. Requires a forklift or crane. I had trouble finding a shop, but found someone to do a rough install at a reasonable rate and then went back and fine tuned everything. I created a removable path into the fuel compartment that really helped with the engine/shaft alignment - you want to get that right.