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Cooling system advice
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- Gold Member
- Posts: 645
- Joined: Fri Nov 08, 2013 10:15 pm
- Home Port: Pender Island, BC, Canada
Re: Cooling system advice
I think I found a coat hanger to have the right amount of flexion and stiffness for rodding out the exhaust elbow.
Hull No. 1013, 1971
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- Gold Member
- Posts: 2285
- Joined: Wed Nov 13, 2013 10:48 am
- Home Port: Hood Canal, WA
Re: Cooling system advice
Metric or SAE?
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- First Mate
- Posts: 135
- Joined: Mon Aug 13, 2018 11:19 pm
- Home Port: Traverse City, Mi
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- Gold Member
- Posts: 74
- Joined: Mon May 18, 2020 4:06 pm
- Home Port: Lopez Island, WA. USA San Juan Islands
- Location: Lopez Island, WA
Re: Cooling system advice
I have had very good results cleaning rust out of iron and steel fittings using a water bath and electricity. Just a plastic tub large enough to submerge the object, a source of low voltage direct current (a decent sized battery charger will often do) and some electrodes. You can do the job with hunks of re-bar but some carbon "gouging carbons" from your local welding supply last forever and leave a cleaner solution. Oh yeah. Some washing soda. Not cooking soda.
This is a process that is low risk. When the oxides and crud are dissolved, the process stops. No need to hover over the tub though it doesn't seem to hurt to stop and start the process out of curiosity. If you are concerned about damaging some difficult to replace part, sort out the process with an old pipe fitting, rusty tool or axe head.
Paint as soon as the part dries. Blow it off with air or heat the part.
Don'r use stainless steel for electrodes as it produces very toxic byproducts. Hexavalent Chromium. I have done a whole car frame with a bath made of old plywood and plastic sheet.
Look up Electrolytic Rust Removal on the web.
This is a process that is low risk. When the oxides and crud are dissolved, the process stops. No need to hover over the tub though it doesn't seem to hurt to stop and start the process out of curiosity. If you are concerned about damaging some difficult to replace part, sort out the process with an old pipe fitting, rusty tool or axe head.
Paint as soon as the part dries. Blow it off with air or heat the part.
Don'r use stainless steel for electrodes as it produces very toxic byproducts. Hexavalent Chromium. I have done a whole car frame with a bath made of old plywood and plastic sheet.
Look up Electrolytic Rust Removal on the web.
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- First Mate
- Posts: 135
- Joined: Mon Aug 13, 2018 11:19 pm
- Home Port: Traverse City, Mi
Re: Cooling system advice
I assume this would remove any lingering surface paint too? I'm at that tipping point for engine paint it seems, in poor enough condition to warrant redoing. The previous owner went with a caterpillar yellow when they did the rebuild on this one, so as I have the opportunity, likely to put paint back to correct, if anybody knows the color code for the original AD21 green that would be great..
JP
JP
LopezMike wrote: ↑Mon Oct 26, 2020 2:19 am I have had very good results cleaning rust out of iron and steel fittings using a water bath and electricity. Just a plastic tub large enough to submerge the object, a source of low voltage direct current (a decent sized battery charger will often do) and some electrodes. You can do the job with hunks of re-bar but some carbon "gouging carbons" from your local welding supply last forever and leave a cleaner solution. Oh yeah. Some washing soda. Not cooking soda.
This is a process that is low risk. When the oxides and crud are dissolved, the process stops. No need to hover over the tub though it doesn't seem to hurt to stop and start the process out of curiosity. If you are concerned about damaging some difficult to replace part, sort out the process with an old pipe fitting, rusty tool or axe head.
Paint as soon as the part dries. Blow it off with air or heat the part.
Don'r use stainless steel for electrodes as it produces very toxic byproducts. Hexavalent Chromium. I have done a whole car frame with a bath made of old plywood and plastic sheet.
Look up Electrolytic Rust Removal on the web.
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- Gold Member
- Posts: 645
- Joined: Fri Nov 08, 2013 10:15 pm
- Home Port: Pender Island, BC, Canada
Re: Cooling system advice
I previously purchased a small tin from Albin Motor but I think you will find "Hammermill Green" from Rustoleum a close match and less costly. Buy a small spray can and try it out to see how you like it.
The previous owner used a Valspar product - Code #327G358, SunCryl HS Enamel, Medium Green Metalic, GM/4966 1977. It was a pretty good match but I could not locate a local dealer.
The previous owner used a Valspar product - Code #327G358, SunCryl HS Enamel, Medium Green Metalic, GM/4966 1977. It was a pretty good match but I could not locate a local dealer.
Hull No. 1013, 1971
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- Gold Member
- Posts: 114
- Joined: Sun Dec 02, 2018 3:17 pm
- Home Port: Ellsworth, Maine
- Location: Mid-coast Maine
Re: Cooling system advice
I have removed rust using OSPHO (acid) for surface prep, and also used agricultural molasses as per YouTube videos. (I submerged a coal stove in a plastic garbage can for a few weeks, occasionally stirring the stinky mix— great results). I wonder if the molasses system might work at all on this sort of thing if it could be submerged for some weeks. I wonder if anyone has tried this for the scale we fight. When possible— and it is not in this case— there is nothing like heating the part red hot for removing any crud from cast iron or steel. With cast iron...slow heating and slow cooling is a must. The Electrolytic method posted earlier above sounds like the ticket. I’m sure going to try that next time!