Reinforcing A-25 bow over helm?

[NickScheuer]

The first A-25 I looked at was a real "project" with one of those welcoming projects being an almost complete fracture of the bow over the helm about 6" from the port side. I ended up buying the second Albin we looked at, but it too had enough of a fracture in the same location to slightly disrupt its curvature. The shop who completely refinished the deck and house exterior fixed the crack in the bow. However, I still worry about the bow's strength and am about to add an oak reinforcement beam under the original fiberglass, the depth of the beam is limited in order to not detract too much from headroom needed to move about in the cockpit. This will be the last project I do before decommissioning the boat later this month or early next..

I've notice in various photos here that nobody else appears to have reinforced the bow on their boats. Of course those who have added hard tops over the cockpit may have strengthened the bow as part of their modification.

[nebulatech]

Hi Nick,

I'm not understanding where you are talking about between "helm" and "bow." Are you talking about the forward portion of the wheelhouse?

If you are looking to strengthen the wheelhouse roof, you might consider angled steel or aluminum as it is much stronger for a given thickness. If its fully encapsulated in resin, it.should not oxidize. However, I think wood could be made very attractive, especially sapele, which should be strong enough. I secretly dream of lining my wheelhouse with high gloss sapele.

When I removed the old MD17C from my boat, I rigged a brace over the opening in the wheelhouse roof to lift the motor from. I sistered 3 2x4's and screwed them to two 2x6's which spanned port to starboard across the wheelhouse. With this arrangement, I was able to lift probably 400lbs. The roof did bow a little, less than 1", with no sounds of cracking.

I share this to give an idea of the strength an undamaged coach roof has. I'm not aware of how damaged your roof was, how it was repaired, or what loads you plan for the roof.

I

[Bob Noodat]

Maybe for bow read arch? But if so isn't the wheelhouse just screwed in place? How much of a part in the boat's structural integrity could it have?

[DesertAlbin736]

Aft end of the wheelhouse roof we're talking about I presume? Bow as in "beau" or "bow tie", not bow as in front end of boat. My guess is that arch was not intended to be especially weight bearing like someone standing on it.

AlbinPortsmouthVAedit.jpg

[NickScheuer]

Yes, arch at the rear of the pilothouse, not "bow" as in bow and stern. It just seems weak by looking at it, and actually was fractured on two boats I looked at.

[Dieselram94]

Mine is fractured as well. Previous owner used to use it to support snow loads. It’s just cracked and not noticeable but is on my list of repairs to be made. I’m eager to see how this is repaired.

[Plum76]

Mine isn’t cracked, but it isn’t exactly confidence inspiring either. I’ve been thinking reinforcement would be good if I had a reason to get into work for that area.

The roof rack above (mounted on the sides of the pilot house) doesn’t flex much, nor is there movement in the pilot house when loaded. Suspect the flex in the rear section is just due to age, at 50 years old..

JP

[ssrig]

Mine is I would say sagging and stressed from I presume a load on top that also bent the hoops for my canvas. One idea that I am kicking around is to "mold" some 1" stainless pipe along the rear of the wing(bow) and directing it down to the solid cockpit coaming. The reason for using the stainless pipe is too make a new hoop too, it definitely has the strength for it and it can be bent with a pipe bender at home.

[tribologist]

Here is how it is made. its only 2.5mm on the bottom where the tensile strength is.

It should be quite easy to fix. make sure to sand in a 1:10 taper all the way down to the foam where you have cracks. Once you fix the cracks you can lay up a few extra layers to make it strong enough to sit on. If you have cracks on the top you need to get through the gelcoat wherever you need to repair. No fiberglass on paint either... Spend some time looking at boatworkstoday videos on youtube. Andy is the Bob Ross of Fiberglass...

[tribologist]

1996_14_74_7a-c.jpg

Here is how it is made. its only 2.5mm on the bottom where the tensile strength is.

It should be quite easy to fix. make sure to sand in a 1:10 taper all the way down to the foam where you have cracks. Once you fix the cracks you can lay up a few extra layers to make it strong enough to sit on. If you have cracks on the top you need to get through the gelcoat wherever you need to repair. No fiberglass on paint either... Spend some time looking at boatworkstoday videos on youtube. Andy is the Bob Ross of Fiberglass...

[NickScheuer]

DSCF2662.JPG

The wood reinforcement is 3/4" Red Oak saturated with WEST System epoxy, then varnished. I might have used thicker Oak, except that I intend to add a hard top over the cockpit which will incorporate another layer of 3/4" Oak fastened to the aft surfaces of the fiberglass arch and wood reinforcement.

[markdbecker]

That looks nice..... I have the same problem. There is a large crack in the bow. The PO made a hasty repair that is not the best looking. I plan to do a fiberglass repair next spring. Now that i see the wood reinforcement you did I think I will do that to. How did you attach the Oak to the fiberglass arch.....

[NickScheuer]

The aft surface of the wood reinforcement lies almost flush with the aft edge of the original arch. The lower edge of the wood is shaped with a nice curve, while the upper edge (lying against the fiberglass) is shaped with irregularities in curvature in order to closely match the fiberglass. With the wood clamped temporarily in place I drilled vertical holes through the fiberglass arch down into the wood. Then I applied WEST system epoxy mixed with thickening fibers and clamped the wood in place again, this time securing it with seven long stainless steel square drive (Roberts in Canada) screws. I faired the screw heads for a smooth contour on top of the beaded shape for a good water seal with the canvass cockpit cover. The end result is that the fiberglass and wood arch is much stiffer than before.

Both my earlier Edey & Duff 21' Dovekie and 28' Shearwater had fiberglass arches over the cockpit for the purpose of transporting the spars while trailering. Both of those arches were much stronger (stiffer) than the Albin-25 arch, despite not appearing substantially thicker in section. I understand the E&D arches were fiberglass-sheathed hardwood.

[DesertAlbin736]

tribologist, thanks for posting the design drawing. I'll add that to my collection of plan drawings. In our case I would hope my hardtop of 3/4" thick f/g layup with diviny cell foam core & chopped strand mat helps add strength.

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