Skeg replacement. A27

[Randall]

I’m replacing the skeg on my 1986 Albin FC. If memory serves me my Choise is white oak, stainless, aluminum, and composite. I’m leaning toward stainless due to ease of material access and machinability.
Would appreciate any advise. Thanks Randall

1986 Albin FC. “Meridian”
North Fort Myers, Fl.

[nebulatech]

On the A25, the factory stock is stainless. So there's at least the opinion of the builder

I know the A27 is a little different. The A25 has some highly unavailable custom junction between the lower skeg and the rudder, but the parts going into this bit are stainless.

[Mainer]

Randall,
My friend replaced his A27 skeg with stainless and was very happy with it. That boat is now owned by Dave Evans who is a member here.
Dick Jones
PS - Saw your boat is for sale and I would guess prospective buyers might be impressed with stainless as well.

[sailonset]

Indeed. It was one of the features of the now, March Hare, that impressed me. Here's a pic they sent when I asked about the skeg. Even has a zinc!

IMG_0142.JPG

Dick, I owe you and Dick an email!
dge

[srcody617]

I'm about to do this SKEG replacement on my newly acquired A27 FC hull #484. I do not have the old piece, but the previous owner had prepared a beautiful piece of white oak, and I will use it.
There are 3 bolts securing it to the underside of the keel, and I thought to get the alignment in the new wood precise, I'd machine 3 bolts such that there'd be a centered protrusion standing proud on the head of each bolt. This I did on some old, short bolts. My next move is to align the wood in position, and raise it firmly to get the locations of the bolts. They will prick dents in the wood, like a center punch. I expect precision to about 0.010. Then, on a drill press, I'll drill the holes just a few thousandths larger than the new bolts. I will countersink the bolts and fill them flush with thickened epoxy.
The lower rudder bearing (stainless steel assembly) will fit onto the after wood end and align the rudder post. I'm forced to remove the rudder completely, as it has a vertical 1/8" jagged split in the fibreglass at the leading edge. I guess it was caused by water infiltration while on the hard, freezing. It seems like filling it with low-viscosity epoxy and clamping it while horizontal will eliminate the voids and prevent further damage.
To complicate this even further, the crank arm linkage at the steering connection inside, on the rudder shaft, has rusted terribly, and will have to be replaced.
I will use an off the shelf flanged collar, and a flat 3/8 stainless plate, water-jet cut to the same length as the old arm.
ALL THIS TEXT TO SEE WHAT THE EXPERIENCE OF OTHERS HAS BEEN, AND TO INVITE COMMENT.
I AM SURE THAT OTHERS HAVE BEEN THIS WAY BEFORE ME!!
I'm wondering how I should finish the submerged wood--penetrating epoxy all over, I am thinking. I'm planning to route the edges to fair the piece--1/2" radius maybe. Of course, anti fouling paint.
having downsized from a 31-ft blue water sailboat, I am the first to appreciate a smooth unbroken keel.
Cruising on midcoast Maine, one cannot avoid snagging lobster pot warps, and this skeg does the job. I've seen photos of A27s without the skeg. It would seem that the rudder shaft could get easily bent.

[Randall]

Thanks for your reply. As my old skeg was wood and it lasted 34 years in southerly waters, I am using wood again wrapped with 3 layers of fiberglas, bottom painted with a zinc. I've had boats in Florida waters for 12 years and according to my diver there was more barnacle and worm growth last year than he has seen in 20 years. Good luck on your skeg replacement.

Randall
Albin 27FC "Meridian"
North Fort Myers, Fl.

[srcody617]

Thanks for your reply!!
Did you have, on the old one, any issues with rubbing off of the fiberglass from keel contact grounding?

[Randall]

Have owned for 4 years and have never grounded but have slid across a few sandbars with no damage.