I am in the process of taking possession of an Albin 35TE.
The boat has been sitting for almost two years as the previous owner passed away from a long ilness.
Before we relocate the bot from Monterey to Stockton, the mechanic in Monterey is changing out the raw water impellers and thermostats. He sent me this article below. After reading this article I agreed with him that we should replace the 180f thermostats with 160f thermostats.
Here is the article. After reading please feel free to tell me your thoughts GOOD or BAD! Maybe this will benefit other owners of Cummins 6BTAs.......
HERE is the Article that convinced my mechanic and I to go with the 160f unit, next step will be to change the temp switch for the "idiot light" from 205 to 195.
Choosing the correct thermostat for your Cummins Marine 6BTA can sometimes be a tricky process… And although the Cummins factory has been supplying all B5.9 Marine engines with 180F stats since their introduction in 1985, IMO, as the 5.9 increased its POWER DENSITY from a 210 HP (roughly 35 HP per piston) engine to a 355HP engine (i.e. the “370 Diamond” at 60 HP per piston), IMO the engineers went to sleep as to what could and was happening in the field with these engines.
Although these same engineers did upgrade many parts of the cooling system over these 2 decades, I do not think they realized exactly what can happen in real life conditions in a Marine Environment, especially on planing boats————–I think they only thought about a Motor Home or Dodge ¾ ton truck with a horse trailer on the back cruising down the freeway at 60-70 MPH with the 5.9 under the hood… all while using under 4-6 GPH for hours on end (maybe 15HP per piston hauling that Horse trailer).
The problem is, in any planing hull I have seen these engines in, it goes like this…….It’s typically 8-13 GPH per engine when on plane in every single engine or twin engine boat that I have ever sea trialed, with 10-ish GPH seen as an average in the usual vessels that these engines are installed in. And In case you don’t already know, the GPH your engine is consuming is a 100% direct relationship to the power you are extracting from the engine.This is a very simple grade school equation—–More HP = More HEAT, and that is truly, “plain and simple”—– Making sense yet as to where this is going?
So, now you have an engine with components on it that the coolant system must extract major amounts of heat from that are not the same as in your Dodge truck… Namely, the exhaust manifold, the turbo charger, and the aftercooler. In your Dodge, all of these components are “AIR COOLED” and all that heat that must be “rejected” (absorbed) and is pushed out of the hood into the surrounding “unlimited stream of air” flowing past the truck.
Now, let’s move into a “Marine Engine Room”……How about close to zero air movement other than what the engine consumes…Now add 200%++ HP being made by the engine (about 60HP per piston at WOT or about 30-40 HP per piston at cruise) for hours on end going from point A to Point B. Next, add components to the engine that must be kept at “coolant temps” or they are subject to failure (cracking, gasket failure, etc). In real terms, the exhaust manifold and turbo in your Dodge glowing RED is normal when climbing up a hill for 10 minutes. \
Your boat, when on plane, is ALWAYS CLIMBING UP A HILL, OR WORSE. What is the highest HP the 12 Valve 5.9 truck offered? 190-ish (31 HP per piston at WOT?)
So now we have it ………..YOU, as the operator of the engine running at these loads, needs ROOM to “throttle down” when any one of a have dozen things can go wrong… The marine B is a really great engine whether operated in a Trawler at 2-6 GPH when cruising for days on end, or in a planing hull using 160-200 HP (27-34 HP per piston) when cruising for long distances……..But you need to “understand the difference” and that is why we developed the 160F hi-flow thermostat for this engine.
So the question you may ask yourself is “Should I?” ———————- When Cummins was having an issues in the development phase on the 6CTA 8.3 (early 90’s) when they started pushing up the HP from 300 to 400, and then to 430/450, guess what they did? YUP, they put in 160F stats and they are standard to this day…….And guess what again—Every QSB 5.9, 6.7, 8.3 and 8.9 comes with a 160 stat from the factory………………..Wonder why?
Margin of Safety
The Cummins Marine 5.9 engines are not very tolerant of overheats. In fact, it is very easy to not catch a rise in temperature and literally “cook” the engine. Other components like the turbo, exhaust manifold, also give up their life very quickly when exposed to higher temperatures over 200F for long periods. The 160F thermostat gives you that extra margin of safety to better catch an overheat condition.
The Safety thing only gets better when you want to take this a step further with a redundant alarm system. The 180F thermostat engines with the unreliable and barely audible Cummins OEM circuit board alarm system trigger the alarm at 205F. In most situations damage is done at that point depending on why it was triggered (loss of coolant or loss of raw water flow), how quickly that alarm switch is actually triggered and whether or not the operator hears it and how quickly he reacts to it.
When running the 160F tstat you can have your redundant a.k.a “sleepyhead” alarm system triggered by a 190F switch. Therefore, your alarm is alerting the operator that something is amiss while the engine is still in a safe temperature range before irreversible damage is done.
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160f versus 180f thermostat for Cummins 6BTA engines
Moderator: Jeremyvmd
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Re: 160f versus 180f thermostat for Cummins 6BTA engines
Gary- that article is from Tony Athens (Sbmar.com), who is the guru of Cummins marine applications. He sells a proprietary retrofit 160F thermostat for the older “B” engines, that is expensive BTW. I have been running the 180F stock thermostat for many years in my 250B, but am changing to Tony’s version because the 85 deg water temps in the July-August Chesapeake push the cooling system to its limits.
But how are the motors performing now? If all is right with the cooling system, they should be holding 185-195 (max) no problem. I would first make sure your system is at 100%, which you seem to be doing. Then consider the 160F thermostat as a safety margin as Tony suggests rather than a bandaid.
But how are the motors performing now? If all is right with the cooling system, they should be holding 185-195 (max) no problem. I would first make sure your system is at 100%, which you seem to be doing. Then consider the 160F thermostat as a safety margin as Tony suggests rather than a bandaid.
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Re: 160f versus 180f thermostat for Cummins 6BTA engines
Thank you MerryKate for the great advice. Oops, I hope I did not get Tony mad by cutting and pasting his thoughts. My mechanic ordered two from his website. We are installing now along with impellers, just for the 160 mile run to Stockton where the boat will be hauled and gone thru inside and out. The existing impellers are several years old and the thermostats are even older. Our hope is this alone may cool down the starboard engine. If not then it is still valid PM.
I agree this should not be done as a band aid. With the 370hp versions in this boat I feel running the slightly lower thermostat will help us in the long run to keep these engines healthy and happy, especially south of San Diego in the hotter zones.
I agree this should not be done as a band aid. With the 370hp versions in this boat I feel running the slightly lower thermostat will help us in the long run to keep these engines healthy and happy, especially south of San Diego in the hotter zones.
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Re: 160f versus 180f thermostat for Cummins 6BTA engines
Gary - Nice to see that your mechanic is a Seboard Marine follower. Being a Cummins owner, you should get yourself on their website and read through Tony's Tips and register for the forum .. and it's free! That's where I go whenever I have anything marine diesel related going on or just to poke around. You'll learn an awful lot on the Seaboard site.
I understand that your question is regarding a T-Stat change for the coolant side of your engine, but what precautions are you taking on the Raw Water side of your enginge to reduce engine temps and over heating?
I'm very glad to see that you're taking some proactive steps for your trip. With a 160 mile run in a boat that hasn't seen much maintenance or run time in a long while I would also do a quick "temporary" Rydlyme sea water service to flush the raw water circuit. This way you are servicing "both" cooling systems. I did a Rydlyme flush mid-season with my 6BTA when my temps creeped to just under 200 from the normail run temp of 180. Three hours later of Rydlyme flushing and my temp was back to 180 degrees. All you need is 2 gallons of Rydlyme per engine, a 5 - gallon bucket, a sump pump, a set of washing machine hoses and makeup fittings from the plumbing supply house as pictured below. You don't need anything fancy or expensive.
Here are some pictures from my 2012 Rydlyme Service: Here is a picture of the Heat Exchanger Core on my 31's QSC at my time of purchase at roughly 650 hours on the clock and 6 - seasons in the water. You can see the how much the sea water restriction is:
After you get her to homeport, I'd then do a complete bench service cleaning so that you can also get the airside of your aftercoolers cleaned.
Here are some pictures of my 2020 QSC Sea Water Bench Service:
I understand that your question is regarding a T-Stat change for the coolant side of your engine, but what precautions are you taking on the Raw Water side of your enginge to reduce engine temps and over heating?
I'm very glad to see that you're taking some proactive steps for your trip. With a 160 mile run in a boat that hasn't seen much maintenance or run time in a long while I would also do a quick "temporary" Rydlyme sea water service to flush the raw water circuit. This way you are servicing "both" cooling systems. I did a Rydlyme flush mid-season with my 6BTA when my temps creeped to just under 200 from the normail run temp of 180. Three hours later of Rydlyme flushing and my temp was back to 180 degrees. All you need is 2 gallons of Rydlyme per engine, a 5 - gallon bucket, a sump pump, a set of washing machine hoses and makeup fittings from the plumbing supply house as pictured below. You don't need anything fancy or expensive.
Here are some pictures from my 2012 Rydlyme Service: Here is a picture of the Heat Exchanger Core on my 31's QSC at my time of purchase at roughly 650 hours on the clock and 6 - seasons in the water. You can see the how much the sea water restriction is:
After you get her to homeport, I'd then do a complete bench service cleaning so that you can also get the airside of your aftercoolers cleaned.
Here are some pictures of my 2020 QSC Sea Water Bench Service:
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kevinS
>><<>>;>
Former Boats:
- 2006 31TE / Hull# 221
Cummins QSC 8.3 / 500 hp
December '13 - April '23
- 2002 / 28TE / Hull# 614
Cummins 6BTA 370 hp / Alaskan Bulkhead
April '04 ~ May '13
>><<>>;>
Former Boats:
- 2006 31TE / Hull# 221
Cummins QSC 8.3 / 500 hp
December '13 - April '23
- 2002 / 28TE / Hull# 614
Cummins 6BTA 370 hp / Alaskan Bulkhead
April '04 ~ May '13
- RobS
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Re: 160f versus 180f thermostat for Cummins 6BTA engines
While the mechanic is there have him pull the belt guards and check and remove the serpentine belt and spin everything up front and feel and listen to be sure all is good. If you throw that belt at full cruise you stop circulating coolant and things heat up fast even with the 160deg stats depending on how quick you notice it. The idler pulley bolt is a known weak link on these engines. Below link is a hit for a search on the subject for several of my posts on the Seaboard site. BTW, I installed the 160deg stats 4 seasons ago in my 6BTA's but I also have a redundant alarm system with a 190deg switch which adds some buffer.
https://www.sbmar.com/community/search/ ... _input=rob
https://www.sbmar.com/community/search/ ... _input=rob
Last edited by RobS on Fri Jul 10, 2020 1:45 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Rob S.
"TENACIOUS"
1974 Chris Craft 36' Commander Tournament
Cummins 6BTA 330B's
(Former Owner)
"TOY-RIFIC" 2000 28TE, 6LP, Hull 408
Luck is the residue of good design.
"TENACIOUS"
1974 Chris Craft 36' Commander Tournament
Cummins 6BTA 330B's
(Former Owner)
"TOY-RIFIC" 2000 28TE, 6LP, Hull 408
Luck is the residue of good design.
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Re: 160f versus 180f thermostat for Cummins 6BTA engines
Rob- what was your experience in running temps transitioning from 180 to 160 Tstats? Getting ready to do mine.
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Re: 160f versus 180f thermostat for Cummins 6BTA engines
Nothing different other than the needle sitting in a different position on the temp gauges. I always ran right at 180 and now she sits at 160. Maybe engine room temps are down a tad but I never measured running engine room temps before I swapped tstats so I cannot draw that conclusion. If you need it, I did put together a pictorial for the sbmar site on swapping out the tstat on a 6BTA.
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Rob S.
"TENACIOUS"
1974 Chris Craft 36' Commander Tournament
Cummins 6BTA 330B's
(Former Owner)
"TOY-RIFIC" 2000 28TE, 6LP, Hull 408
Luck is the residue of good design.
"TENACIOUS"
1974 Chris Craft 36' Commander Tournament
Cummins 6BTA 330B's
(Former Owner)
"TOY-RIFIC" 2000 28TE, 6LP, Hull 408
Luck is the residue of good design.
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- Deckhand
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Re: 160f versus 180f thermostat for Cummins 6BTA engines
Sorry for my late update! We ran the boat from Monterey to Stockton on July 14th, then had to get other boat delivered to boat dealer to sell it and drive to San Diego for a one week long range tuna trip. Just got back Monday:
1) Recap: Before departing from Monterey, the mechanic changed both raw water impellers and changed Thermostats to 160F new units. Prior to that the starboard engine got hot within a couple of minutes at WOT. After the above it still would still climb in temp at WOT.
2) We departed at 6am seas were not bad and wind was 10-15 from NW. We ran the boat at 17 knots steady and got under the Golden Gate by 11:30 am and therefore bypassed a planned layover in San Francisco and continued onward to Stockton. Running up the river in 100f weather and much warmer river water we had to slow down to about 12 knots to keep starboard engine at 195. Higher rpms would bring temp over 200f. Otherwise boat ran GREAT and we made our destination in Stockton by 5:45pm, Less than 12 hours and about 160 miles.
3) Since I was leaving for a week to go long range fishing, I called my local boat yard the next day and the owner told me to drive it to him the next day and leave it with him for the week I would be gone and he would check it out for me. He laughed and told me he grew up with those "Cummins straight sixs"
4) When I returned to Stockton, 10 days later, he told me neither engine was running hot! The starboard engine had a inaccurate sending unit that he replaced. I picked the boat up this morning and ran it WOT for 10 miles on the river after warming it up for a few miles. Hit 2850rpm on both engines. speed topped at 28 knots with a dirty bottom that has not been painted in 4 years, lots of barnacles.
Port engine got to 195f starboard hit 190f. River is hot compared to the ocean and ambient was 90f at 11:30am.
Needless to say I am very pleased with these results. I will be running this boat at 2200 rpm for fast cruise and 1600 for normal cruise. It is just nice to know WOT is there if you need it. Once the haul out is done and the bottom is painted and the props tuned, I WILL test it again at WOT to see how much it improves
Now to begin the TLC and electronics upgrades. I think my first move will be to remove the FB canvas and plastic, leaving only Bimini top for shade. Figure, outdoor FB, indoor lower helm, but with central air upgrade for Stockton and Mexico.
One thing, I did feel was the steering was a lot harder at 28knots WOT. However, this is my first real boat with twin rudders and hydraulic steering ram. Is this normal?
BR,
Gary
1) Recap: Before departing from Monterey, the mechanic changed both raw water impellers and changed Thermostats to 160F new units. Prior to that the starboard engine got hot within a couple of minutes at WOT. After the above it still would still climb in temp at WOT.
2) We departed at 6am seas were not bad and wind was 10-15 from NW. We ran the boat at 17 knots steady and got under the Golden Gate by 11:30 am and therefore bypassed a planned layover in San Francisco and continued onward to Stockton. Running up the river in 100f weather and much warmer river water we had to slow down to about 12 knots to keep starboard engine at 195. Higher rpms would bring temp over 200f. Otherwise boat ran GREAT and we made our destination in Stockton by 5:45pm, Less than 12 hours and about 160 miles.
3) Since I was leaving for a week to go long range fishing, I called my local boat yard the next day and the owner told me to drive it to him the next day and leave it with him for the week I would be gone and he would check it out for me. He laughed and told me he grew up with those "Cummins straight sixs"
4) When I returned to Stockton, 10 days later, he told me neither engine was running hot! The starboard engine had a inaccurate sending unit that he replaced. I picked the boat up this morning and ran it WOT for 10 miles on the river after warming it up for a few miles. Hit 2850rpm on both engines. speed topped at 28 knots with a dirty bottom that has not been painted in 4 years, lots of barnacles.
Port engine got to 195f starboard hit 190f. River is hot compared to the ocean and ambient was 90f at 11:30am.
Needless to say I am very pleased with these results. I will be running this boat at 2200 rpm for fast cruise and 1600 for normal cruise. It is just nice to know WOT is there if you need it. Once the haul out is done and the bottom is painted and the props tuned, I WILL test it again at WOT to see how much it improves
Now to begin the TLC and electronics upgrades. I think my first move will be to remove the FB canvas and plastic, leaving only Bimini top for shade. Figure, outdoor FB, indoor lower helm, but with central air upgrade for Stockton and Mexico.
One thing, I did feel was the steering was a lot harder at 28knots WOT. However, this is my first real boat with twin rudders and hydraulic steering ram. Is this normal?
BR,
Gary