Newbie from Germany

[WillieC]

We are something like Number 1575, so yes, you have the Super DeLuxe Professional NASCAR Limited Edition Mark II Just Plain Fancy Model. The three cylinder Volvo Penta of either version came with the upgrade.

[MarkP07]

Thank you for your very inspiring help!
I've just checked the fast poor man's compression test, and yes it's not easy to crank the cold motor at the flywheel, I noticed the compression. I will do that once more with hot motor.
And yes, it's the fresh water cooled machine, but no water in oil.
I'll try to post some pictures of the boat....

[MarkP07]

[WillieC]

You are on your way! I suspect a little injector clean/adjust/reseal, a valve adjustment check, and external throttle stop and cable adjustment and you will be on your way. That's a fine looking A25.

Getting the injectors out, if they haven't been removed in a good while can be frustrating. Make sure you anneal your old copper washers before re-installing (or have new ones at the ready). Also get a handful of the right size copper washers for the bleed screws..Maybe new bleed screws if they have all been rounded off.

Keep us posted!

[MarkP07]

Anneal the old copper washers? Never heard of that...
How are you doing that?

[WillieC]

I hang them all on a stiff wire, say a coat hanger supported horizontally, then heat them up with a small mapp gas torch until dull cherry red. Doesn’t take much. You could probably roast them over a campfire with your marshmallows.

Seems to work pretty well. A trick I learned here at AOG.

[dkirsop]

Looks like you got a good boat and trailer to match. With a combination like that you should be set for many fine adventures. Further to the advice from Rick these older engines are of an age when valve stem seals weren't always used. I was having an issue with smoke on startup and recently added a set of valve stem seals on the intake valves. It was easy to do and did not require removing the cylinder heads. Try what has already been discussed first and then decide if this is something you wish to do - it may not be required or you may already have them.

[WillieC]

The MD17C, contrary to DA's rather biased opinion, is so quiet at startup that I appreciate the blue haze so I can tell she's running.

Maybe Mr. K. can describe his method for installing valve seals without yanking the heads. Of course Chrysler has been around for a long time, so they've got it down pat. No new news here, folks.

I'd hold off on valve seals until such time as you get into top end refresh. (FYI, I did new valve guides, all new valves, seals on intake only, then added seals on exhaust too during one of my teardowns and still have a little smoke at startup. Is it blue, white, black, or chartreuse? It quits after a short while and the already silent running bucket of loose bolts and 5/8" minus gravel warms up. CLOSE ENOUGH! Go boating!)

Unless Dave's magic method is a 2 IPA project and a little smoke at startup is the only issue with the engine. (Snicker)

[MarkP07]

Today, i' ve finished the "poor man's compression test" at the hot motor, and really, I cannot push the flywheel by my hands. That's good, it? Even if I am a weak IT Freak , whose hardest work is to push the Mouse?

But while I'm testing I find the main point for the rumbling of the motor: The exhaust pipe stucks between the drive and the hull (look at photo) . I tried to push it out, but it becomes meaner: while pushing the exhaust pipe, the water squirts out of the pipe! I've sealed the leak with leak band; but finishing that, it squirts at another point. So I push it back and its stop up for now.
But I have to fix it, and I think the best is, to renew the pipe from the motor till the balloon.
Did anyone know, which diameter that pipe has? Outside it has 65 mm. And does anyone have an idea, how I can fix that in the water?

[WillieC]

First things first:

How is your insurance? A number of our boats have come close to sinking with that balloon muffler. Make that part of your first projects. Go to a fiberglass cannister, Centec of Vetus style muffler.

I think our hose is 1-3/4" inside diameter.

That looks like an MD17C. You have the MSB transmission that mates up to the 17C, not the RB style transmission with the shepherd's hook shift linkage. You also have the newer cables and the stop cable for killing the engine. None of this was on the MD3B model.

In water repairs? Don't sink the boat. I hesitate suggesting anything because sinking the boat is easy. If it were me....Stop the water from ever coming in the exhaust through hull. Use your imagination and cover for worst case scenario, if ti is a plug say a cork, how do you keep some kid from knocking it loose? Or a rubber ball jammed in, that maybe you can't get out later. There are ways. Some might suggest a seacock on the exhaust which can fully protect you. Just remember to open it.....

If you have a water cooled shaft seal, don't forget that 1/4" hose is happy to sink your boat as well.

Just some happy thoughts. Sorry. Things can go sideways in a hurry. Good that you are finding these issues!

[MarkP07]

Thank you so much WillieC! You're always a safe harbour for that old piece of iron!
It is really a Md3b with that 6 bolts at the cylinderheads and a little type plate saying MD3B. So someone must have changed that transmission.
I've just ordered the hose; that centek inline muffler is not available here in Germany. The Vetus online muffler is at least 65 cm long, it will never fit...
So for now the Elastomuffler will last and i will only renew the hose from engine till muffler.
But that will be a project for wintertime!

[WillieC]

Well that’s an interesting tranny upgrade but it makes good sense. The old 3B to RB transmission was gear driven and the newer MSB transmission uses the drive plates on engine and transmission with the rubber baby buggy bumper star piece in between very similar to chain drive motorcycle rear wheels. Somebody thought the engine was good enough to make the swap and install new cables and rerouting of seawater hoses. I am liking the sound of this!
Carry on!

On the WillieC I had to move the engine forward about an inch and a half to accommodate the longer MSB transmission. The newer tranny also eliminated the old style shaft shock absorber alignment plate. I installed a new plastic shaft saver in its place. The permutations are endless.

[dkirsop]

I have the Elasto muffler in my boat but the previous owner changed the mounting system to what the manufacturer of the muffler recommends. The Albin method of mounting the muffler is wrong and can result in failure of the muffler. The muffler is supposed to be supported by mounting cradles at each end and the centre must be free to expand and contract with the pulsing of the exhaust. By using a single mount at the centre of the bellows the muffler cannot flex and this can result in failure. This is likely the source of your drumming sound. I don't have a good picture of my installation but will post one after my next visit to the boat.

[MarkP07]

Thank you for that topic - so that remembers me to post my update. I've changed the hose successfully staying in Water. I closed the exhaust outlet with an 40mm Water pipe, wrapping this with silicon sealing tape (I've store this in the boat now!)
Everything works fine, but I am horrified to see the old, build out hose: it has so many damages, I wonder how it holds tight for so long.

The Elasto Muffler looks good outside, but is shredded inside. I have it still in use, but I have to replace it soon. But I didn't find replacement mufflers like that centek type you normally use in the states here in Germany. It would be great, If anyone have a number of a vetus type that fits?

[MarkP07]

Thank you for that topic - so that remembers me to post my update. I've changed the hose successfully staying in Water. I closed the exhaust outlet with an 40mm Water pipe, wrapping this with silicon sealing tape (I've store this in the boat now!)
Everything works fine, but I am horrified to see the old, build out hose: it has so many damages, I wonder how it holds tight for so long.

The Elasto Muffler looks good outside, but is shredded inside. I have it still in use, but I have to replace it soon. But I didn't find replacement mufflers like that centek type you normally use in the states here in Germany. It would be great, If anyone have a number of a vetus type that fits?