A27 bow eye

[motthediesel]

Well, if this thing is going to go on a trailer, it's going to need a bow eye. I found the largest commercially available is made from 1/2" SS stock, so I ordered one of those.

Positioning it on the boat is a bit tricky, it turns out. Under the V berth panel is way down near the waterline, clearly too low. I investigated in the chain locker, but found that it has a glassed-in bottom not far down from the gunnel, so too high. The in-between area is where it would need to be fitted, but it's not accessible. I saw that whoever had installed the bow thruster had drilled a large hole in the bottom panel already, to run wires through, and had not sealed it. That would allow stinky chain mud/water to run down into the fore bilge -- not good! So I decided to drill out a much bigger hole, fit the eye, then make another panel to seal off the compartment again.

A five inch whole saw made quick work of giving me access, then I drilled through the stem to fit the eye.



There's not a heavy layup in that area, so it would need a very secure backing to be sound. So I made up a "dam" out of some old fiberglass sheet I keep for such purposes. This would be held in place temporarily by the bolts, then filled with reinforced resin.





(continued)

[motthediesel]

After running the nuts on to hold it, I "buttered" all the seams with thickened epoxy, this should keep the resin from leaking out when I fill it.



It's important to consider the heat generated by the chemical reaction in the resin for a casting like this. Special epoxies are available for this kind of job, but the kind I have on hand would get dangerously hot in this case. So' I will use polyester resin for this. By using considerably less MEK than usual, the resin will still kick, but without overheating. The resin will be mixed with "cat's whiskers" (chopped-up glass strands) for strength.

Here's what the eye looks like on the stem, bedded in with 3M 4300.



So I'll cast the filler in the next few days, and that will be another job crossed off the punch list.

Tom

[nebulatech]

I like colloidal silica as a thickener because you can control the consistency and it is considered structural. West systems 406. It can be poured or mixed thicker like a putty. It's not as strong as glass cloth, but I think it is on par with the kitty whiskers. I've used it to remake corners before with great success. Sands decently with 80 grit.

[motthediesel]

406 is a good idea, maybe I'll use that and some whiskers too.

[ssrig]

Looks good! Sounds like someone made a proper chain locker in your boat. Mine is still all plywood and open pretty much down to the bilge so no mucky chain or rope go down there yet.
I used a piece of douglas fir for backing about a foot long and bevelled it so it fit tight against the bow, drilled the holes in it for the bow eye then epoxy saturated it before bedding it in Sika 292 which is similar to 3M 4300.
My thinking was to have something "give" in the event of an accidental big load on the bow eye that would maybe damage the fibreglass. your way is much more elegant.
Also I had to change the position of the eye so that it lined up better with the winch, before repositioning the bow eye the set up would try to lift the bow off the trailer while straps would try to keep it down, it was much easier to reposition that bow eye than to grind/weld and relocate the winch.

[ssrig]

So, are you going to have a winch and stand on that trailer?

[WillieC]

The bow eye on our 25 was wobbly when we purchased the boat. Then I performed a "stress test" on it that produced predictable results. (Note: Always unhook the safety chain before attempting bump-off maneuver.)

It's fixed now. In the event of any future "testing", the hull will crack in half at the windshield station. Or rip the ball off the truck.

[motthediesel]

So, are you going to have a winch and stand on that trailer?

Yes, there will be a winch on the trailer, and a “stop” V block to index the stem. I plan to incorporate a ladder up to the foredeck too.