new member - Bob

[Bob]

In June, I purchased a l987 Albin, 27', aft cabin. With the help of a friend we brought it home to Narragansett, R.I. 10 rough and rainy hours later we had her at her new home - a mooring just south of the Jamestown Bridge in North Kingstown. I've wanted a boat like this for a long time, and finally the timing seemed right. I'm a complete novice. The first thing to learn was how to approach a mooring, alone, and snag it. This went pretty well for a while, until late in the summer I over shot it, put it into reverse and you guessed it, I wrapped it around the shaft. Thank God for a great friend who had an aqua lung. No damage to the shaft. JUST 124.00 FOR A NEW LINE ! I shamefully told a few boat owners what I had done and they just laughed, said welcome to the group, and would top my error with some real beauties. This boat is just about everything I've dreamed of. I just hope she loves her new home as much as we love her.

[Cape Codder]

Hey Bob, welcome aboard.
Your mistake with over shooting the mooring is a common one...don't worry...there will be more!!
Boating is great in 2008!!
Happy New Year!!

[jcollins]

Bob,
Welcome to the board and to Albin boats. I have never even tried to snag a mooring. I'm sure it will be a joke if I ever do.

[Mariner]

The trick to snagging a mooring is speed. The less of it the better. You really never want to use reverse if you can avoid it. If you over shoot it, just put it in neutral, glide past it, and come back around. One thing I see people do all the time is try to grab it at the stern. You never want to do this unless the line you are attaching is attached at the other end, to the bow of the boat. NEVER tie to a mooring stern-first, even for just a minute. For one thing, it's tacky. It labels you as the Bayliner guy in the harbor. But more importantly, if a wind comes up, it's a bad way to be moored. What I've seen people do when single-handing is string a long line from the bow cleat to the stern with a (very heavy duty) carabiner clip on the end. They bring the buoy alongside, snap the carabiner onto the moorging, and then, once it's attached, go forward and adjust the length. One thing to be aware of when doing this, is that your bow line should NEVER be long enough to reach the propeller if it falls overboard. Any other lines that might reach the propeller, should always be removed and stowed when you're not actively preparing to dock or have just left the dock. I sometimes break this rule with my spring-lines in the Albin, due to it's high gunnels. It's highly unlikely that they would fall overboard in calm weather. But if it's even just a little bit rough, I remove them and stow them before clearing the harbor entrance.

[RicM]

Welcome to the board and Albin boating. We have a 28 TE tied up in Wickford RI and have just finished our first season with this boat. There is a lot to learn about any boat that's new to you. If you are new to boating overall think about taking the basic safety course like "Boat Smart". Safety is the first thing. A copy of Chapman's Piloting is a great winter read.
The first thing I learned about docking and mooring is never approach something faster than you are willing to hit it, and neutral is your friend.
Watching a lobster man zoom up to the dock, flip into reverse, and prop walk over to the exact spot between 2 boats with a foot or so fore and aft is a beautiful thing, but takes MANY hours on the water to master. We should be getting close to having enough Albin owners for a Narragansett Bay rendezvous!

[jillsusan]

2005 28 te here-- love my boat-- several issues with navy hull but nothing major just cosmetic. now that they are closed down-- no matter anyway.

Would love to find out more about the yanmar issue and the class action suit--am i to understand if i call them i will get an extended warrantee?

Also would love to correspond with another 28 te owner to just go over a few things I have questions about

Pls excuse my spelling-- it is a little late

Thanks

[jcollins]

2005 28 te here-- love my boat-- several issues with navy hull but nothing major just cosmetic. now that they are closed down-- no matter anyway.

Would love to find out more about the yanmar issue and the class action suit--am i to understand if i call them i will get an extended warrantee?

Also would love to correspond with another 28 te owner to just go over a few things I have questions about

Pls excuse my spelling-- it is a little late

Thanks

jillsusan,
Welcome to the group. The Yanmar site is http://www.yanmarsettlement.com but the last time I checked it was down. You will find some very knowlegeable folks here though so don't hesitate to post your questions.
As far as questions about the TE28 you came to the right place. Stop in the TE28 forum and ask away.
Welcome and Happy New Year!

[RicM]

jillsusan:

There is a ton of stuff on the suit on this forum and boatdiesel.com. If you use the search function it will kick out plenty of info. My understanding is that it only applies to earlier model 6LP Yanmars that had a defect in the valve guides. Your (and my) later model engines incorporate the improvement that was was mandated by the suit. The good news is that you don't need the extended warranty.
Blue hulls need lot's of maintanence, something I didn't realize until after I bought it.

[Cape Codder]

Blue hulls!!!
Oh, yes!!! I also found them to be "needy"

Back in the mid-ninties, my brother Steve, had the first black Albin, also the first transom door.
Terry Compton cursed at him more than once!!!

My brother warned me....watch out for that dark color hull...it'll cause you heartache....
Well, I now know what he meant.
I am bound and determined to bring her back to a deep gleaming blue, that will LAST!!
I think we'll be comparing notes on this for some months to come.

I am no stranger to "bringing back" some pretty oxodized hulls. But they have always been Boston Whalers with great quality gel, and near white, or desert tan. That's a long way from flag blue!
My current 1987 13' Whaler is a gem, and it's 20+ years old!

I'm a great believer in Collinite Products, so they will probably be my first consideration, but I'm really open to research and experimentation, and suggestions.
This WILL BE my major 2008 spring project.

[Denis]

I hate to say this to you, but it's called "Awlgrip" You never need to wax or polish ever again, and it looks the same after five years as it did the day they put it on. Denis

[jcollins]

my brother Steve, had the first black Albin, also the first transom door.
Terry Compton cursed at him more than once!!!

Cape Codder,
I'm one of the very few with a black hull. Mine is badly oxidized. I have been toying around with the idea of re-painting but maybe not this year.
There has been quite a bit of discussion around here about different products. Keep us posted on your results. Spring is just around the corner and I have to do something.

[RicM]

The previous owner of my boat does not appear to have done a damn thing for the hull, as it is badly oxidized on the port side (faced south in his slip). Starboard is pretty good. Judging by a number of scratches that have to be 1/32 to 1/16 deep there is plenty of gel coat left. It's an '03 so it's probably never been compounded. I am gong to start with a real grinding wheel and rubbing compound and try to take off about 1/64 to 1/32 of surface. Probably use something like this:

3M™ Perfect-It™ III Extra Cut Rubbing Compound 05936, Quart, 12 per case

Has all the features, advantages and benefits of Perfect-It™ III Rubbing Compound with increased aggressiveness to remove 1000-1200 scratches. NOTE: Perfect-It™ III Extra Cut Rubbing Compound is the most appropriate Perfect-It™ III product for gelcoat.

Then go on to Finesse It by 3M and then Rejex instead of wax. I will post pictures of my progress when the weather gets a little warmer, it's 8 here tonight. I'm cleaning my oven to keep warm!

[NJRobert]

I guess I never formally introduced myself. My name is Robert and I purchased a 2007 28TE Newport this past Spring. We keep it in Raritan Bay in New Jersey, which is a great gateway for both inshore and ofshore fishing. I've had several issues with little things on the boat here and there, but fortunately nothing major. Managed to put 106 hrs. on it this past season. I wish it could have lasted a bit longer. I'm dissappointed that Albin let themselves get into the mess they have now. I'm sure the way the product is marketed has alot to do with the outcomes.

Still,it's a great boat and fun to drive

[jcollins]

The previous owner of my boat does not appear to have done a damn thing for the hull, as it is badly oxidized

The first time I looked at my boat the owner told me "mechanically it's almost perfect and the interior has just been redone". "But if your into detailing this is not the boat for you"
He was not joking. My black is so faded some people think it's blue.

Njrobert - Welcome to the board.

[Pitou]

Has all the features, advantages and benefits of Perfect-It™ III Rubbing Compound with increased aggressiveness to remove 1000-1200 scratches. NOTE: Perfect-It™ III Extra Cut Rubbing Compound is the most appropriate Perfect-It™ III product for gelcoat.

Then go on to Finesse It by 3M and then Rejex instead of wax.[/quote]

When I bought my hull, same thing the boat must have had port side and transom to South and wouldn't you know it that's how she sits now as well. The port side was in pretty bad shape and I brought her back with 3M Super Duty Rubbing Compond and unfortunately it is an annual thing. I saw the Perfect-It III just yesterday and thought I'd give it try. I've been using the Collinite paste wax and in the quest for a better finish I'm curious Ric, who makes and what is Rejex?