28TE Outboard conversion.

[WD2E1]

Has any one converted their 28 TE to outboard motors? Since Peninsular is no longer . Being tired of working on my knees, I've decided to go with outboard motors. @ 150 hp.
Benefits, 2 motors, shoal draft, Trailerable.
Any comments?

[Norseman]

Has any one converted their 28 TE to outboard motors? Since Peninsular is no longer . Being tired of working on my knees, I've decided to go with outboard motors. @ 150 hp.
Benefits, 2 motors, shoal draft, Trailerable.
Any comments?

Wow, big job..
I am sure it is doable if you toss enough money on it, but it will easily cost more than to replace the single diesel.

[Jkraft]

If you want to keep the boat then go for it but you may be better off selling it and getting one already done by another manufacturer. I think this would kill resale value also

[Tom Un]

It can defiantly be done with transom supports and a set back housing for the outboard. Will you have a single outboard?

[WD2E1]

It can defiantly be done with transom supports and a set back housing for the outboard. Will you have a single outboard?

Twin 150s. The price is not that bad, 3800 for the aluminum motor bracket, and about 13,500 each motor. (Mercury 4 strokers). Not concerned with resale, I like the boat. Just tired of the inboard inherent problems. One nice advantage is the motors pivot up out of the water, also I can pull it out of the water myself. I see a lot of savings. Also this is an advantage during hurricane season.
I have pulled the engine, cut off the keel, removed the rudder. prop, and shaft. I had to modify my Tri axel trailer to accommodate the running gear. Raising the bunks about 15" this put the skeg about 5" off the ground. I have finished the fiberglass on the keel hole as well as the rudder and exhaust. Looking forward to sea trial. This is about a 3 month project.
I forgot to tell you about how I plan to support the transom. I am making aluminum gussets that will extend up on an angle from the spars. they will connect to an aluminum angle spanning the transom.
1st photo is what i don't have to deal with anymore. It seems the growth just attacks here, and thru hulls I have to dive the boat monthly.
2nd photo is the hole left from the keel removal.
3rd photo ready to prime , then paint the whole bottom.
4th is the hole filled.

[rcwhite]

Interesting project. While I have seen other boats redesigned for outboards, haven’t seen this done on a Albin.

How are you adjusting for the weight moving further aft?

I see the displacement and hp staying about the same, what about torque output?

[WD2E1]

Interesting project. While I have seen other boats redesigned for outboards, haven’t seen this done on a Albin.

How are you adjusting for the weight moving further aft?

I see the displacement and hp staying about the same, what about torque output?

Weight aft is no problem due to the outboard bracket adds flotation. I am leaving the trim tabs on in case I need bow down.
Also I can move the fuel tank if needed. i estimate That the stuff I removed is upwards of 1500# The engine alone is between 900 and 1100# according to internet information the keel is heavy, 80 - 90# shaft 30# prop 25# rudder 60# I don't know about the transmission. Guessing 150# About the torque. On diesels it is measured at the output of the engine. On outboards it is measured at the prop. I believe it is close to the same, or possibly more, In any event the Peninsular was a pain to work on. Now I pull the boat and take it home. 1 mile from a ramp. I added some pictures to the last post.
The bracket is made by Mattson company in Tampa.
It adds flotation. The outboards weigh about 400# each. The bracket about 175#













3

[MadMoney]

This is a very interesting project... can't wait for sea trial numbers!

Anthony Warren
1999 28' Albin MadMoney

[rcwhite]

Yes, outboards are rated at the prop thanks to Yamaha back when they hit the market.

Inboards need to include the torque multiplication of the reverse gear for comparison. Last diesel conversion I speced was about 30% less on the hp output with a similar torque curve but have never looked into this scenario.

I do recall seeing a 28 with a big block conversion back when we first started looking. Performance seemed reasonable in the ad. Removing the skeg will probably reduce drag by a good amount as well.

When we hung a dingy off the transom of our 28 I noticed the difference, I could see moving the tank forward with 1k back there.

Good luck and look forward to seeing the result. With so many larger boats sporting outboards these days you may be trendsetting:)

[Sisu22]

Interesting project for sure. I'm no expert but I'd expect that you'd get a performance boost going to twin 150s on this boat. Maybe even save fuel with the new gas outboard technology. I think the placement of the fuel tank will be crucial and it may be worth investing in a naval architect to consult on that, even though you will have extra floatation in the platform.

Have you considered doing a single 250 or 300 with a kicker? Might save $$ and weight.

[WD2E1]

Hello.
Well I changed plans on the 150s, Now I purchased 2 reconditioned Optimax 225 pair.
They weigh a bit more. 510# each. As far as weight goes I removed quite a bit. The keel alone weighs 90# I looked at moving the tank,but without removing a bulkhead that is located between the engine and the tank there isn't room for the existing tank. When I think about it, all I'm doing is moving the center of gravity back. Thus the pivot point will just be back a bit. When this moves back weight moves forward. I'm going to just put the tank in the original spot. If it is a problem I will address it then. Since I can trailer it I will be able pull it at will. That is a big benefit for me.

Oh forgot to explain twin motors over single..
Less draft. I estimate 8" less with twins. A real plus here in SW Florida.
This should only be about 18" or so. I will let you know the exact figure when I'm done. I know it will be a lot less than 3'2".

[WD2E1]

Ok.
Went to Tampa and I now have the bracket. I didn't have it powder coated because I couldn't find enough info on what paint would work on that finish. A lot of options are available for bare aluminum.
I started the process of strenthing the transom. I am adding 3/4 inch to the thickness with laminated 3/4 marine plywood. Also putting gussets up from the stringers it will all be covered with 2 layers of heavy fiberglass woven mat. This mat has 2 plys one woven with 1/8th ribbons and on the backside a layer of nonwoven strands. It's about 1/8 thick when done. So 2 of these plus the plywood adds an inch to the transom. Then I will mount the bracket and measure for any deflection. I may have to add an aluminum angle to the the top.

[Tom Un]

Cant wait to see the progress!!!

Tom U

[Pitou]

Ok.
Went to Tampa and I now have the bracket. I didn't have it powder coated because I couldn't find enough info on what paint would work on that finish. A lot of options are available for bare aluminum.
I started the process of strenthing the transom. I am adding 3/4 inch to the thickness with laminated 3/4 marine plywood. Also putting gussets up from the stringers it will all be covered with 2 layers of heavy fiberglass woven mat. This mat has 2 plys one woven with 1/8th ribbons and on the backside a layer of nonwoven strands. It's about 1/8 thick when done. So 2 of these plus the plywood adds an inch to the transom. Then I will mount the bracket and measure for any deflection. I may have to add an aluminum angle to the the top.

Following your thread on your conversion to outboards. If you could, post up some pictures as you work your way through the project.
Thanks!

[WD2E1]

Hi Kevin,
Thanks for the interest. I am now strengthening the transom.
Picture shows cutting out of 3/4" plywood. There is a 2" gap around the edge to allow a good bond for the fiberglass to transom. There is glass mat (non woven) sandwiched between the two.