Albin contact in Sweden?

[NickScheuer]

I emailed <info@albinmotors.com> over a week ago concerning whether they might be able to sell me a new rudder mounting strut for my SA-25 Deluxe and have heard nothing in reply.

Anybody suggest a different email address?

[WillieC]

Drop the s.

info@albinmotor.com

[NickScheuer]

The post above was an error. My email was to < info@albinmotor.com >

[DesertAlbin736]

Did you try shopping their website? It appears the A25 parts page in their catalog lists upper & lower rudder bushings and "pip[e] head with bushings" which sells for $135 US for the pipe head with bushings or $62.42 US for the upper bushing (without the pipe head) & $35.89 US for the lower bushing, plus shipping. But not the actual strut. If you're talking about the actual pipe it would seem once you had the pipe head & knew the inside diameter needed to fit the pipe all you'd need is the right OD sized s/s pipe. Next time I'm over to the boat I could measure the OD of that pipe strut if that helps.

https://albinmotor.se/albin-batdelar/a- ... rbat-ad21/

DSCN3631crop.jpg

rudderpipehead.jpg

[tribologist]

The strut on mine is 33.73mm or 1.328" it is certainly made from 1" Schedule 80, pipe. likely 316 stainless steel from Sandvik:-). It ends with a welded on adapter that goes into the pipe head. If you have the old end its possible to machine it off and weld it to a new piece of pipe. Its much easier to cut the old one off and re-use it than making a new one.

PM me if you like me to give you a hand with it. 1" Sch 80 pipe is about $30 or so/ft so its not to bad.

Ulf

[NickScheuer]

The boat shop that will repair the fiberglass skeg is interested in how the forward end of the strut is anchored. Does it have a collar? Or tabs? Reusing the aft end of the original strut on a new length of pipe makes sense. Do you have a source for the Schedule 80 stainless pipe?

[Dieselram94]

I had to have mine repaired...
A previous owner must have had trauma to the rudder as the original strut had been cut off and modified. I had a piece of solid stainless machined to perfectly fit inside of the strut “pipe” and a collar machined into it to mount a replacement pipe head fitting from Albin motors onto it. It’s a excellent repair but it sounds like you need to replace the pipe though?

[tribologist]

The boat shop that will repair the fiberglass skeg is interested in how the forward end of the strut is anchored. Does it have a collar? Or tabs? Reusing the aft end of the original strut on a new length of pipe makes sense. Do you have a source for the Schedule 80 stainless pipe?

Im going to check if i can find some scrap pipe that's over 2 ft. Otherwise its not all that expensive on ebay. McMaster want good $$ for it..

Ask them how they like the bond end prepped. It’s possible to put a corse pitch shallow thread on it or a bunch of grooves (thread is easier)

Are you just sticking it in the old hole or are you cutting it out? Is it loose now?

Ulf

[NickScheuer]

The strut is bent, but still solidly bedded in the skeg/keel. The shop will probably have to cut away some of the skeg in order to get the stainless pipe strut out, then rebuild what they cut away.

strut, quarter view.JPG

The rudder shaft bearing rotated toward port indicates the degree to which the strut is bent to starboard. the rudder shaft is still straight vertical. I believe the strut might be bent back straight when out of the hull, but the shop is not sure that can be done satisfactorily. The strut is bent just enough where it exits the fiberglass skeg that the skeg shows a 1/16" crack forward a few inches underneath the strut.

[tribologist]

I would seriously consider bending it back. 316 stainless is very mallable. If you put some serious boards on each side of the keel with heavy c-clamps, then use a pipe bender to bend it back you will likely be fine. You probably need to make a custom bender similar to a conduit bender. I will run some numbers and let you know how much force you need to bend it. You might be able to make a bender out of wood.

Cutting that pipe out is serious surgery. Will take a few days and equally many $1000 bills. If you fail bending it the demolition part would be done

[NickScheuer]

Still need to fix the crack in the fiberglass under where the strut entes the keel, however, I agree, lots less fiberglass work.

[tribologist]

Take some closeup images when you get a chance. Where is most of the bend? Is it bent inside the keel?

[tribologist]

I have a 24" Schedule 80 1" pipe secured if needed.

If most of the bend is behind you could probably heat it with a rosebud and bend it with modest force. Stainless conducts heat poorly (I'm a glass blower so that is a very good thing....) If you hit it with a rose bud burner a few inches away you can probably get it hot enough to bend before you damage the fiberglass. Just have a water hose ready to chill it if it starts smoking where it enters the skeg.

[NickScheuer]

I'll be talking with the shop after Jan 1. Depending on what they say, I way want to buy your pipe. The idea of welding the original end fitting onto a new pipe sounds good. Will try to post a new photo of the bend later today or tomorrow.

[Bob Noodat]

Pardon my intrusion. If OP indeed wrote to albinmotor.com, should it not be albinmotor.se, as in the web site?