Help me spec a new windlass

[Nancy]

I think the time has come to throw in the towel on our Simpson Lawrence 500 windlass. It's probably original to the boat, and it's never really worked very well. It's always had a tendency to slip on the rode especially at the rope-chain splice. Pressing down on the control arm makes it grab. That's not possible when single-handing with no windlass switch at the bow. We replaced the line in 2012 when we bought the boat, re-did the splice in 2016, reversed the line in 2017 (new splice), redid the splice in 2018, and replaced the entire rode this year. We replaced the gipsy early on, and that helped some, was not a cure-all. Yes, we have used the recommended rope (Samson or New England Ropes).

I'm sick of it. I want a new windlass for next season. It should probably be a horizontal windlass due to the height of the anchor locker. Lewmar says that the Pro-Sport 550 is a direct replacement in that the holes line up. Given that the pulpit has to come off to do this project, I don't think it's critical to have matching holes. I'd rather have a high-quality, beefy windlass that we can rely on. Easy free-fall deployment in case of emergency would be a plus. I intend to install a remote switch. Wired would be fine. I don't particularly want foot switches as I don't want more deck penetrations.

Here's a photo of the current setup:

windlass-2-06.17.18-1200.jpg

Recommendations and ideas welcome.

[Pitou]

I've shared your pain. My '02 28 came through from the factory with an Imtra Dorado windlass, foot switches and the Lewmar 22# Delta Plow. I couldn't wait to replace the windlass as the gypsy never grabbed the rope portion of the rode with any grip. I had even replaced the pressure finger and spring assembly as recommended by Imtra .. no change. I then replaced the windlass with the Horizon 500, 100 ft. of chain and 175 ft. of "8 strand plait". It worked like a dream and I never had any issues again .. maybe it was the 8 strand plait that made the difference. Being a lake boater, you certainly don't need as much chain, but I'd recommend 30 to 35 ft and the 8 strand plait. I've noticed the plait rode making a huge difference in windlass operation.

When doing the replacement I did not remove the pulpit, but worked upside down with my head inside of the locker and made it happen .. what a PITA. I did have to have some fiberglass work done to start fresh as the footprints of the two windlasses were quite different.

Currently I have the Lewmar Pro-Fish 1000 which has the freefall feature and foredeck foot switches. Having 125 feet of chain to 8 strand plait I can only use the free fall when in deep water as disengaging the fee fall when the chain is paying out would damage the windlass. The Pro-Fish is strong and I can't recommend it more highly.

With the 28, the Pro-Fish 700 with freefall would be sized appropriately. Right now Defender has 4 Pro-Fish 700's with freefall available as open box for $650 and if you sign up as a Defender 1st Member (no charge) it's available for $615.

[Nancy]

We're using 20' of chain, 200' of 3-strand, and a Rocna 22 lb. anchor. We love that anchor! The Horizon 500 manual says specifically to only use 3-strand. That's been fine with me as I can splice 3-strand to chain. No idea about 8-plait. Considering that the line is new, I'd be inclined to try it with a new windlass as long as it's within spec, which it appears to be on the Pro-Fish 700.

That's a great price on the open box anchor, and I'm already a Defender First member.

I don't know if it's even possible to replace the windlass without removing the pulpit. There's no access to the bolts holding the windlass. There's only a hole (guessing 4" diameter) through which the rode drops down. I don't know if the pulpit construction stayed the same from 1995 on, but ours is constructed like a hollow sandwich. The top layer is what you see in the photo, and then there's the bottom shelf a few inches below it. Hope that description makes sense. Speaking of the hollow sandwich, very occasionally (I think it's only ever happened twice), the rode puddles up on the shelf and you have to reach underneath to pull the little mess down so that the windlass starts working again. We've talked about fabricating a simple sleeve so provide a straight drop.

I wonder how different the footprint of the 700 is compared to what we have.

What's so frustrating about this windlass is that we had a Simpson Lawrence on our Trojan F32. It was probably the next model up from the 500, and we installed it in 1998. In fourteen years, we never had any trouble with it and never replaced the rode. Maybe the unit on the Albin was mistreated before we got it.

[Ben423]

When I bought my boat it did not have a windlass. I chose a Lewmar Pro 1000 (not the ProFish) and new ground tackle: 75 feet of 5/16"G4 chain plus 200 feet of 9/16" three-strand and a Rocna 10 (22lb) anchor. I also chose to use Lewmar foot switches because I like to control the setting and raising of the anchor from the bow, where I can have eyes on all the components and be able to knock down the chain "castle" in the anchor locker when raising the anchor. It was a pretty simple installation because Albin had thoughtfully pre-led the wiring to the anchor locker. The bow plank was made of upper and lower pieces with a gap in between, but it was no problem to cut the proper sized hole through both pieces with a hole saw. To make the arrangement waterproof and ensure that the chain wouldn't hang up on the bow plank, I bonded a short piece of fiberglass tube into the hole.

I did have to replace the threaded mounting rods that came with the windlass with longer ones, but that was the only nonstandard aspect of the installation. The system has worked flawlessly and I've never had a moment's doubt about the holding power of the Rocna even in strong winds and swells. I don't see an advantage in the free-fall capability of the ProFish. Letting the anchor free fall often results in a pile of chain on top of the anchor instead of methodically laid out chain, but that's just my personal preference. I also had to replace the standard retaining bail on the bow roller because the original was too small to accommodate the Rocna anchor. One more thing, I added a four-bolt cleat on the bow plank next to the windlass. I secure the rode to it when we're anchoring for short periods. For overnight or longer, I rig a bridle to the two mooring cleats.

Lastly, there is certainly no reason to remove the bow plank or pulpit to do the installation. As I mentioned before, it was an easy project to do and I finished it in a day.

[Norseman]

Got the Lewmar Pro 700.
Highly recommended and a good fit for the Albin 28TE.
Got the foot switches and the cockpit remote.
110’ 1/4 G4 (high test) chain and a Rocna 33 lbs anchor. (15 kg)
Seems like a bullet proof combo after hundreds of deployments and retrieval’s of the anchor.
(Previous boat had the Free Fall version, it was a pain in the butt and not recommended)

[Norseman]

C0D810D4-6FBF-484E-99F3-96C778F3B88F.jpeg

Picture of anchor and windlass:

[Nancy]

When I bought my boat it did not have a windlass. I chose a Lewmar Pro 1000 (not the ProFish) and new ground tackle: 75 feet of 5/16"G4 chain plus 200 feet of 9/16" three-strand and a Rocna 10 (22lb) anchor. I also chose to use Lewmar foot switches because I like to control the setting and raising of the anchor from the bow, where I can have eyes on all the components and be able to knock down the chain "castle" in the anchor locker when raising the anchor. It was a pretty simple installation because Albin had thoughtfully pre-led the wiring to the anchor locker. The bow plank was made of upper and lower pieces with a gap in between, but it was no problem to cut the proper sized hole through both pieces with a hole saw. To make the arrangement waterproof and ensure that the chain wouldn't hang up on the bow plank, I bonded a short piece of fiberglass tube into the hole.

I did have to replace the threaded mounting rods that came with the windlass with longer ones, but that was the only nonstandard aspect of the installation. The system has worked flawlessly and I've never had a moment's doubt about the holding power of the Rocna even in strong winds and swells. I don't see an advantage in the free-fall capability of the ProFish. Letting the anchor free fall often results in a pile of chain on top of the anchor instead of methodically laid out chain, but that's just my personal preference. I also had to replace the standard retaining bail on the bow roller because the original was too small to accommodate the Rocna anchor. One more thing, I added a four-bolt cleat on the bow plank next to the windlass. I secure the rode to it when we're anchoring for short periods. For overnight or longer, I rig a bridle to the two mooring cleats.

Lastly, there is certainly no reason to remove the bow plank or pulpit to do the installation. As I mentioned before, it was an easy project to do and I finished it in a day.

Thanks, Ben. This is very helpful.

We intend to have a switch at the helm as well as a remote control switch of some type at the bow. We also plan to add a center cleat and reverse the two bow chocks on the pulpit as they appear to be installed backwards.

We were thinking that a free-fall option would be good to have in case of emergency, i.e. no power to the windlass and an urgent need to drop the anchor. We'd never use it otherwise.

As for removing the pulpit, the existing windlass is fastened only to the top plank. I'll have to look again, but it seemed like access to the bolts would be impossible.

[Nancy]

Got the Lewmar Pro 700.
Highly recommended and a good fit for the Albin 28TE.
Got the foot switches and the cockpit remote.
110’ 1/4 G4 (high test) chain and a Rocna 33 lbs anchor. (15 kg)
Seems like a bullet proof combo after hundreds of deployments and retrieval’s of the anchor.
(Previous boat had the Free Fall version, it was a pain in the butt and not recommended)

Studying the the Pro Series versus the Pro Fish, I now think the Pro Fish is free-fall only, which I definitely don't want, so the Pro Series is the way to go.

As I mentioned above, I'd only use the free fall in a dire emergency. Would be powering down 99.99% of the time. But I think that's a moot point with the Pro Series.

[Norseman]

Yeah, the Free Fall Pro-Fish was a pain.
The basic one has given me no problems: Occasionally I lay down on deck and give it a hug.

[Pitou]

I have the Pro-Fish and it can be used in free fall or not. 99.9% of the time I use it just as a conventional windlass and not in free fall.

Because I have 125 ft. of chain, I only use the free fall when deploying in 120 feet of water or more. When you utilize free fall you do not want to attempt to stop the fall until all of the chain has passed the gypsy. If you do the force will damage the windlass. Having a shorter chain length similar to a standard of the length of the boat makes the Pro series handy in many shallower water depths if one chooses to utilize the free fall feature.

[Nancy]

Kevin, thanks for the clarifications.

[Ben423]

Thanks, Ben. This is very helpful.

We intend to have a switch at the helm as well as a remote control switch of some type at the bow. We also plan to add a center cleat and reverse the two bow chocks on the pulpit as they appear to be installed backwards.

We were thinking that a free-fall option would be good to have in case of emergency, i.e. no power to the windlass and an urgent need to drop the anchor. We'd never use it otherwise.

As for removing the pulpit, the existing windlass is fastened only to the top plank. I'll have to look again, but it seemed like access to the bolts would be impossible.
[/quote]

I'm surprised that the mounting studs don't go all the way through the bow plank. If that's how the windlass is installed, I'd recommend that the studs on you new windlass go all the way through. A much easier way to install/remove the windlass.

Our foot switches are located such that the holes and wiring are in the anchor locker, so there's no chance of water entering the cabin through them. I'll be on my boat later today and shoot a couple of photos.

[Panhdjoe]

I had a Lewmar pro 700 on our 27, our 36 has a pro fish 1000 on it. i have been happy with both. I never have used the free fall option on the 1000 as I also prefer to pay it out more slowly. I have 30 feet of 5/16 G4 chain spliced to 200 feet of 5/8 8 plat rope with a 45lb CQR, I have actually never drug anchor. I have not drank the Rocna cool aid. I think having a decent amount of chain and how much scope one uses is more important than what type of anchor is used. We cruisers love to argue about anchors, I think we do for fun.

[Nancy]

I have not drank the Rocna cool aid. I think having a decent amount of chain and how much scope one uses is more important than what type of anchor is used. We cruisers love to argue about anchors, I think we do for fun.

lol! I think that's true. Our boat came with a tiny Danforth anchor, rusty chain, and ripe line. It was obvious that we were going to start over. We had a 35 lb. Bruce on our 32' Trojan. It was a great anchor, but no longer in production. I read up on the Rocna, it went on sale, and the rest is history. Very happy with it. If what you're using works, there's no need to change.

[Norseman]

. I have not drank the Rocna cool

I don’t drink cool aid either, but after dragging all night behind a CQR in the Bahamas, I switched to a Delta, used it for 10 years, then when the Rocna became available in Canada 2007, imported one and noticed better performance from the Rocna 44 than the Delta 55 it replaced.
Have used Rocnas of various sizes since, no cool aid, just love sleeping good all night.