Albin 28 Yanmars

[Butsh17]

My first post, just joined. This is a very impressive owners site and you folks that created and maintain it, deserve alot of appreciation from those of us who can benefit from the info. So thanks! Intend on buying a 1 owner Albin 28 in very near future. Have been 'in-between' boats for last 3 years, I'm one of those. Experienced boater, who by graces of the 1st Mate, was able to live aboard for over 4 years and make 6 East Coast transits during that time. My trawlers were either Cummins or Cat powered, and my question is centered on Yanmar. For those of you that have had Yanmars, I know of their advantages. looks like most late model 28's have the Yanmar 6LPA-STP. One concern; is there anything to pass along on experiences with their adverse relationship with dis-similar metals down in the boat's holy place? I had read about a class action suit with Yanmar not long ago and don't know if it was on this issue or not? Any info to pass along my way, pro, con or otherwise would be value on knowing what to lookout for. Thanks again, Gary, Mid-Chesapeake

[Elizabeth Ann]

Hi Gary - Welcome! I think the class action suit you are referring to has to do with a known valving problem in some 6LP-STE engines. You can find out a lot about that here and at other websites.

As far as your question about dissimilar metals....I have no experience that I'm aware of. Can you elaborate?

[chiefrcd]

I think as long as you use the correct type of anti-freeze and change it on the recommended scheduled times you have no issues with dissimilar metals. In fact I've been on boatdiesel.com for three years and several other websites and I've not seen a posting on issues with dissimilar metals....none. As far as the valve seals go, eariler models of the 6lp had issues with the valve seals and they have issued a replacement for those. I had mine done and have had no problems with the engine. That is what the lawsuit was about. There are specific model serial numbers that you can check, but I don't have that information. Later models don't have the problem. Make sure they are propped correctly and will turn up the factory rpms....seems like the worse thing you can do to a Yanmar is prop it wrong and keep it from turning up the right rpms....that and NOT running them.

[Cape Codder]

There was a maintenance bulletin from Yanmar to change/replace coolant (orange dex-cool type) EVERY YEAR.
Just did it. 3.5 gallons.
That should prevent any dissimilar metal issue.

[Elizabeth Ann]

Can someone explain what this is? What metals are dissimilar and why does coolant affect it? And is there a preferred coolant brand?

[rt11002003]

E A,

Dissimilar metals refers to their relative standing chemically. I'm trying to recall what I learned in a 1963 college chemistry class. Chemists refer to a metal as being more "noble" or less "noble" to another metal. I think it refers to their atomic number.

Perhaps an example is better. On an aluminum (less noble metal) mast, if one installs a stainless steel screw (more noble relative to aluminum) over time one will see a gray powder form around the screw. That powder is a breaking down of the aluminum (aluminum oxide). This process will occur more rapidly if salt water (or air laden with salt, sea breeze) is present. The process can be retarded by treating the aluminum with a sealer that separates the two metals. But it can't be completely stopped because something will always get around the inert sealer and allow contact between the metals, probably water.

Our engines contain metals that are dissimilar; the coolant can function like the sealant I mentioned. The chemical composition of the coolant changes over time for a variety of reasons. It will gradually reach a point where it won't perform all its functions as well and the less noble metals will begin to decompose.

The coolant itself is composed of chemicals that fit somewhere on the scale of "nobility". Engine oil presents a similar set of problems.

That's why the builders recommend specific coolants and oils and regular change intervals. Following those instructions and recommendations minimumizes those chemical changes.

I'm sure someone can offer a more technically precise answer, if needed.

Hope this is helpful.

Gene

[Elizabeth Ann]

Hi Gene,

Thanks. I have the chemistry down. In fact it works exactly like you sacrificial zincs. Where the zinc corrodes before the metals your trying to protect - all in the same circuit.

Anyway, what could be useful to me would be an explanation of what specifically the metals are? How coolant inhibits or facilitates the process, and maybe the actual service bulletin from Yanmar so I can read exactly what there saying.

As a general reference:

<dead links removed>

[rt11002003]

Hi again,

Sorry I can't help you there. Have you you tried the web? Maybe Yanmar and the coolant providers have something on their websites. I have some Yanmar stuff on the boat, but she's 175 miles away in Alabama. Next time I get over there I'll see if there's anything that might be helpful.

Over the years I been interested in high performance machinery, mainly sports cars and motorcycles. My boating was primarily done on sailboats.
I found the nitty gritty of oil, fuel, coolants and etc. was next to impossible to determine. The manufacturers continually changed their products and their recommendations for their use. Then the car and motorcycle manufacturers would issue conflicting info. Drove me crazy.

The subject of metals is complex. I spent 11 years around aircraft, missiles, recip. engines, jet engines, rocket engines and their related systems and support equipment. [img] :shock Did everything from maintenance, to teaching and consulting on metals and aircraft investigation. It's a confusing world.

Thanks for the links. I'll keep my eyes open and if I see anything that might help you I'll let you know.

Gene

[Elizabeth Ann]

Hi Gene,

I put the links up as a general reference for all AOG members. It was not my intention to imply that you have things to learn.

I appreciate your attempt to make this more clear. Thanks again.

[rt11002003]

My long discourses were only intended to point out how difficult it is to truly know what is a best course of action.

What I think I know today may be different tomorrow when new info is available.

Can anyone give me an idea about what is being activated when I turn on the 12v power? I hear something whirring in the engine compartment, but haven't been able to find it. "Bella Donna" has a turboYanmar, supposedly 78 hp. Does it have a relay or something causing the noise?
I know some of you have experience with the A27AC and m/b can help.


Gene

[Cape Codder]

Take a look at the attached Yanmar Service Bulletin.
I believe it's page 4 regarding coolant.
http://www.jboats.com/j105/resource/pdf ... letins.pdf

[DougSea]

My long discourses were only intended to point out how difficult it is to truly know what is a best course of action.

What I think I know today may be different tomorrow when new info is available.

Can anyone give me an idea about what is being activated when I turn on the 12v power? I hear something whirring in the engine compartment, but haven't been able to find it. "Bella Donna" has a turboYanmar, supposedly 78 hp. Does it have a relay or something causing the noise?
I know some of you have experience with the A27AC and m/b can help.


Gene

Bilge pump under the engine? (There once was one on my boat, I can see the wiring) Electric fuel pump? Just guessing here...

[jcollins]

Can anyone give me an idea about what is being activated when I turn on the 12v power? I hear something whirring in the engine compartment, but haven't been able to find it.

When I turn on the 12 volt power, I have two whirring sounds. One from the CD player spinning up and resetting (obviously not in the bilge). The second is the inverter powering up. (in the bilge)

[rt11002003]

John and Doug,

Thanks for those responses to my "Whirring" noise question.

I can rule out the CD player, I keep it turned off. Since I don't have an inverter it too can be ruled out.

However, an errant bilge pump is a good possibility. The past year has been one of bilge pump mania. None of the pumps have seemed to work the same way twice in a row, except when the switches are in the manual position and not always then.

At 70 years of age that tiny engine compartment (and the rest of the hull below deck) is difficult to work in so I've had the yard work on the pumps.

When I installed my Garmin 3210C system I re-wired all those extra wires on the battery (reduced them to one connection) along with installing wiring for the Garmin system.

I guess it's time for me to try the pumps.

Thanks again,

Gene

[RicM]

I had a similar problem on my last boat, it was just a float switch stuck in the wrong position. It shouldn't just happen when you turn on the DC however. I believe the standard is that your bilge pumps be wired directly to the batteries with no on/off possible. Otherwise you're sitting in the water with the pumps turned off. Not a good idea.