My 1977 Albin 25 Deluxe rebuild thread

[ssrig]

[/img]I use a product called Goop Off. If its a latex glue it most likely wont work but it will remove polyurethane glues, it has to be a thin skin of glue to work, if too thick it'l take too long, like acetone it will not harm fibreglass.

I used it to remove some glued on solar panels off my camper that had a mix of polyurethane adhesive added to the mix and it does a fine job.

This is before.

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After, took the black glue off and also the poly, never mind the other dirt, cleaned that with regulat soap and water.

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Seems to work better than acetone, all depends on what kind of glue was used.

[hetek]

Good call, ssrig!

I do have a latex paint solvent called Goof-Off (same stuff?). Would be a good place to start. I actually tried NAPA Automotive Adhesive Remover. No good. As if the glue saw the word "automotive" on the label and just laughed.

The Goof-Off just might work, if it is indeed latex. I'll give it a shot tonight. Thanks!

[hetek]

Well hello! Yes, I'm back at it. Weather is FINALLY cooperating.

So... I have a question for the A25 owners out there. I see some put a shaft-type egg zinc on the rudder shoe/pipe, just forward of the lower rudder bearing/pipe head fitting (or whatever that is technically called). Problem I see is that it is an odd size.

My calipers say a shade over 1-5/16" or 33.68 mm. Neither is a standard shaft size, metric or SAE.

Does anyone know of a source?

In other news... I've been busy. Stuffing box is stuffed, cutlass bearing is new and hardware is safety wired, rudder is back in and steering is smooth like butter - one finger on the wheel will do! Throttle and shift control cables are new... More butter!

I am only a few days worth of work away from a test run to see what the mighty Vetus will do. Unfortunately, my brother just broke his collar bone so there goes my crew for now. I might have to corral my son (against his will, of course).

[WillieC]

I think it is 35 mm, which is close enough to 1-3/8". The 30mm prop shaft zinc needs 30mm. No substitutes without machining. A few years back I bought a bunch of zincs from Fisheries when they had a killer sale. Mine is the donut style not the aerodynamic (hydrodynamic?) bullet shape. It also serves as a curb feeler when towed. Too steep of a driveway will let you know. More than once it has saved the rudder. What's a few ounces of zinc worth in comparison?

I always make sure my zincs have excellent electrical conductivity to the part being protected. My skeg zinc shows hardly any loss after several years. Yet the prop shaft zinc needs two or three replacements each season, depending on time in water.

[Jmk2000]

Can’t wait to see more pictures of progress! Your doing an outstanding job

[hetek]

Update time... With pictures!

OK, only 2 pictures, but they're good ones.

So, without further ado...

"Before"

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And "After"

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I scraped off the failing paint down to bare 'glass, primered and painted two coats of off-white epoxy paint.

Also filled 55, yes 55 holes in the dash with thickened epoxy and gelcoat. And installed the fuel gauge.

Now I can finally reinstall the windshield and take off the shrink wrap.

Progress is being made!

[tribologist]

Nice!!!! Fantastic job! Im glad you decided to go on. Slider window is awesome too! Who made that?

I might have enough edging for the glove compartment left if you have not bought that yet.

How is the hard roof made?

[WillieC]

55, Count 'em! Love that. Nice work, Jon. I hope you can get it in the water this season.

[hetek]

Thanks guys! I have to say, this site is mostly what keeps me motivated. If I don't make progress, I have nothing to post!

The sliders are Diamond Seaglaze units, which are evidently the "Tiffany" of marine window units. They were on the boat when I bought it.

Tribologist - You read my mind! I've been trying to hunt down the glove box trim but not having much luck. Maybe we can make a deal if you have some to spare? The hardtop is just a sheet of 1/2" King Starboard-type stuff. It's pretty shabby and needs replacing.

She actually might be getting splashed soon. Hopefully, before the end of the month. I took two weeks' vacation just to finish up the boat. How's that for dedication?! If I play my cards right, I might even make it to the AOG Rendezvous in Essex!

Uh oh... Hope I didn't just jinx it.

[tribologist]

Has your name on it, PM your address if black trim is ok

[DesertAlbin736]

Very, very nice! Getting launched soon would great, go for it!. Boating season is upon us! Is that roof hatch going to be a hinged pop-up or tied down permanent? Sometimes those pop-ups are hard to make watertight. For a future year's project you might consider an opening hatch right above the helm. Sometimes helps, especially when docking, to be able to stand up at the wheel & stick your head out above the roof.

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Post some pictures if you make it to the Essex rendezvous.

[hetek]

Some more. Short and sweet!

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Next up: WINDOWS!!!!!! Yes!!!

Then, hull liner and NEW Sapele wood interior. Sorry, Albin, but my interior couldn't make it past year 42. It's time for new.

[hetek]

Thanks, Ulf , but I just found some trim for the glove box. After owning/building 20 boats during my 59 years I knew I had it somewhere. I just had to find it.

For the "hardtop", I bought a sheet of 3/8" Versatex. Good, at least for now. Much better than the cracked stuff on top now. Not sure if I'm going to reuse the small hatch for ventilation. The lens has a crack.

Not shown: The 4x8' sheet of 1/4" Plexiglass sitting on my front porch and the 3 sheets of Sapele Marine grade plywood on order. Hopefully, soon!

[Dieselram94]

Love the helm seat! Is it a good distance from the wheel?

[hetek]

Thanks! The helm seat is a Todd "First Mate" seat with a Springfield slide-lock spider base. It has about 5" fore and aft travel, so I can adjust as needed. It's a good distance for me (6'/155#).

I also left the base the stock height. If I find myself hitting my head on the hard top I can always shorten it.

The holes were already in the fiberglass bench so I didn't have to drill new to mount the seat. And, I still have the original bench seat from my Albin 27FC that I could install if I wanted the company at the helm. I'm going to go with the simple pedestal seat for now. "Do easy first".