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Shrink wrap and Awlgrip

Engines, Electric, Plumbing, etc.

Moderator: Jeremyvmd

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furball
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Shrink wrap and Awlgrip

Post by furball »

Anyone have experience with an Awlgrip hull and shrink wrapping for winter. The Awlgrip site does not recommend it but the boat yard indicates they do it often without problems. They say as long as the shrink isn't against the paint, there's no problem. I saw RicM post in another thread that he was building a frame for his shrink wrap. Ric, if you read this, or anyone else familiar, please explain, better yet, post a photo. I'm taking the boat up to the Sassafras River this weekend for haul-out, sorry to see the year come to a close.
John
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2005 31TE
Cummins 450

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Transition
2006 28TE
Yanmar 6LP
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Cape Codder
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Post by Cape Codder »

Last week we shrink wrapped Santosha (28TE)
We used the 26' wide shrink wrap that extends down below the waterline and chine. So, no strapping tape is touching the hull, except below the waterline.
After shrinking, the wrap is very tight, streched from the rub rail down to the chine.
ther is very little, if any, movement, even in the wind to mar the gel or any Awlgrip.
I would caution NOT to use the 20'wide wrap, as that it would end a foot or two ABOVE the waterline, and could mar the Awlgrip.
I've attached a picture to show the size of the wrap before shrinking
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Bob
2003 Albin 28 TE
Santosha
Denis
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Post by Denis »

I had my boat shrink wrapped for the last two years. My hull is green Awlgrip and the slight movement of the shrink wrap moving against the hull wore through the finish is several places. This year I will not be covering the boat. I feel that the damage done by the covering is more harmfull than just leaving the boat uncovered. I may use my pipe frame and modify it to accept a tarp that hangs straight down and is not wrapped around the hull, but I have not had time to make that decision. Either way, I will not use shrink wrap again on my Albin. Denis
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"Red Stripe"
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Fortunate
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Post by Fortunate »

I am not a big fan of shrink wrap. I have found that it retains too much moisture and tends to make things mold or mildew.

I recently built a strudy frame out of 1 1/2" sch 40 pvc pipe and fittings. The thought was that it could all be labeled and taken apart easily in the spring for easy storage and many reuses in the future.

A good ol' green tarp does the trick to keep the elements off and provide enough ventilation to reduce molding.
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Post by Pitou »

No matter how good a job is done shrink wrapping any little movement will scratch the awlgrip. The awlgrip guys in my area meticulously build frames that prevent the wrap from touching the hull, I'm not looking forward to the day. I put my hull away with a fresh wax job and that even gets marred in areas from the wrap and I am sure my wrap job is down at the chine. Oh, the problems of those colored hulls! As far as ventilation, be sure to have a minimum of 4 vents / it seems to do the trick.
kevinS
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Former Boats:

- 2006 31TE / Hull# 221
Cummins QSC 8.3 / 500 hp
December '13 - April '23

- 2002 / 28TE / Hull# 614
Cummins 6BTA 370 hp / Alaskan Bulkhead
April '04 ~ May '13
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JackK
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Post by JackK »

I had gone the tarp route for the first two years with my Albin. It worked well but I was constantly going down (45 min) to check and make sure no ice or water had settled into the tarp.

The third year I had the boat shrink wrapped. I didn't have to worry as much. In the spring I was surprised to see how much damage the wrap had done to my hull. It took a lot of man hours and good friends helping to get it back. The gel coat had taken on a white haze where the wrap had rubbed. Thankfully everything did buff out.

After a little research, I found the ultimate solution - put it indoors :D Between the cost of shrink wrapping and the differential between my marina and the new storage yard's prices, the cost difference was minimal. I sleep better and can work on the boat whenever it is warm enough.

Jack
former boat .. 2003 28 TE Flushdeck Dogonit
RicM
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Indoor

Post by RicM »

Jack:

Where do you store indoors? Wickford Shipyard has sheds but you have to cover the boat anyway because the birds crap all over them. It is a dirt floor which makes for more rather than less moisture.
Ric Murray

Big Time, 42' 1993 Jersey Sportfish
Formerly owned Time After Time, 2003 28TE
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Post by Mariner »

What is the purpose of shrink wrapping? Simply to avoid having to clean the boat with a bucket and hose in the spring? Does it work?
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Post by Cape Codder »

Mariner,
My main purpose is to prevent the build-up of ice.

If snow falls, then rain, then freezing temps, etc. etc. it can be a holy mess.
Tarp or shrink helps eliminate these potential headaches.
Bob
2003 Albin 28 TE
Santosha
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Post by Mariner »

Oh yeah. I forget about that. Wouldn't it just be easier to buy one of those canopies at Costco for $160 and use it year after year? Or would that not shed the snow?
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Post by Cape Codder »

I've often thought about them.
It would need to be pretty high to fit everything underneath.
Could they withstand heavy snow and 50+mph winds?
Bob
2003 Albin 28 TE
Santosha
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Post by DougSea »

What about wrapping right at the rub-rail? I've seen several boats at my yard that are wrapped with the "waist line" tight under the rail. It's VERY tight and I would think it wouldn't move and therefore not rub up your hullsides.

And another point to Mariner's question, you have to keep the rain/snow out to prevent damage and at the very active yard where I keep my boat they have to be able to move your boat, with the tarp or wrap in place. You couldn't build a structure that sits on the ground. And the winds we get over the winter would have me worried about it blowing away unless very strongly secured.
Doug
Sonny IV
2006 35TE Convertible, Volvo D6-370's
Former owner - Sonny III, 1997 28TE with "The BEAST"
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Capt Ron
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Shrink Wrap

Post by Capt Ron »

The last couple of years I've only had the cockpit area of the boat covered with shrink wrap. The fellow who does it doesn't charge the usual price per foot to cover but accepted my offer of $100 do what I asked. Seemed reasonable.
He attached at the arch and ended at the rub rail. The tape used is the stickyest stuff I've ever seen. The job did what I intended, which is to keep the ice out of the cockpit where it can acculate and cause damage. The forward part of the boat can withstand the snow and ice.
There's more than enough ventilation to prevent mildew, etc. and I can still enter the boat through the transom door for inspection and minor work during the layup.
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furball
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Post by furball »

I like the idea of wrapping to the rub rail. That way, any warm weekend I can get a wash or polish on the hull. I'll have to talk to the folks doing the wrapping. Does the tape used, I assume around the edges, come off cleanly? Any other tips before wrapping are greatly appreciated. I have all the winterizing done except the engine, going to let the marina take care of that.
John
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Cummins 450

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Transition
2006 28TE
Yanmar 6LP
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Shrink wrap

Post by Capt Ron »

I guess I have at least one down side of the rub rail wrap and tape used. When I went to unwrap and start work on the boat in the spring I found the boat retained melt water at the stern corners, one area was right near the fuel fill. ( I did mention the tape was unbelieveably sticky) . I would recommend some sort of drainage port placed there on both sides.
Owner of 28' TE
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