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A25 Impeller replacement

Engines, Electric, Plumbing, etc.

Moderator: Jeremyvmd

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Sunsetrider
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A25 Impeller replacement

Post by Sunsetrider »

Simple question I think. I have looked at the diagram in the shop manual but I am not good at reading exploded schematics, and I can't deduce where the "explosion" is taking place in the system. :oops:
Exactly how does one go about replacing the impeller and where does one find it? This may sound dumb to many of you but that's OK: you will have to trust me when I say that there are things - not mechanical things - I am not dumb about! :|
I have no idea how long it's been but certainly at least three years.
1976 Albin 25 Hull 2529
WillieC
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Re: A25 Impeller replacement

Post by WillieC »

Aft end of the engine, mid port area, where you'll see two 5/8" heater hoses (or 4 if you have the piggyback pump and heat exchanger.)

That is your raw water pump. Removing the hoses may be the hardest part, aside from dropping stuff in the drip pan. I use a heat gun, carefully, to heat the hoses a bit, watch where you point that thing, twist and they will usually break loose. If you are in the lake, you'll now start taking on water, so do this in the driveway.

Remove the the two small bolts that, with their clips that will disappear when you drop them, hold the pump to the engine block. A gentle twist and rock and rearward yank will have it off in no time. Notice the O-ring, you need that upon reassembly.

Take it inside and take your time figuring it out. Here is MaineSail's link. Read everything he writes about.

http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/impeller

That's it! Simple. (I have a bunch of parts and pieces and cobbled together pumps and NOS impellers that are likely shot. Am seriously considering buying a new one. Hmm, that doesn't sound like me...)
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Sunsetrider
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Re: A25 Impeller replacement

Post by Sunsetrider »

Thanks. So I can't simply close the fresh water intake valve but have to put it off to next season.
1976 Albin 25 Hull 2529
Jeremyvmd
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Re: A25 Impeller replacement

Post by Jeremyvmd »

I'm not sure on the a25 no your motor but my impeller and my dads Cummins impeller housings both have screws holding a small plate on. What we do on my dads boat is just close the raw water through hull, take off screws and swap impeller reinstall screws with seal (my impellers come with new seals). On mine there isn't enough clearence to get the impeller out so we do have to pull the actual pump off to get it out. Usually you will need a pully puller to get it out
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WillieC
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Re: A25 Impeller replacement

Post by WillieC »

If your intake shutoff seacock is working, yes you can simply close it and do the work. Also, like Jeremy says, you don't HAVE to remove the pump to replace the impeller. It is easier in my opinion to do the work on the kitchen table, or in your case, galley. Removing it will give a good idea of its general condition, seals, bearings/bushings. I had the piggyback pump with two different shaft diameters, thus two different impellers. My PO missed that salient detail, so one of them was very sloppy.

It sound like you are under way. Keep us posted!
PugetAlbin
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Re: A25 Impeller replacement

Post by PugetAlbin »

An old post, but i'll throw a few quick notes in here specifically regarding AD-21:

- I don't find it necessary to remove the entire pump, though, read further...

- Even with cooling water shut off, mine will still backflow, because

- my original AD-21 has 2 impellers (!!) and 4 hoses.

--on mine, even with cooling water shut off, one of the other hoses (which are intake and output for a bilge pump) will backflow. for impeller change, i remove that hose and stick a cork in it. easy, peasy.

- on mine, the 2 impellers are the same size. the important impeller -- which cools the engine, hides directly behind the first, and behind a brass plate. if you didn't know what you were doing, and didn't notice the extra hoses, you might quite likely completely fail to notice this very important impeller.

- www.albinmotor.se, the swedish albin store, is the only supply i know of to buy these unusual impellers

- i find it difficult to remove the brass plate between the 2 impellers. i pry at it from the center hole with a long thin screwdriver, but there really must be a better way, like, some sort of clever extractor tool. (anyone??)

-- i have always found it quite easy to remove the impellers themselves, they just slide off. no extractor required. they have tiny round key-pins along the shaft that will fall out -- worth keeping some as backups in case you ever lose one.

- it also takes 2 o-rings, one in each impeller compartment, each the same size, which you may wish to replace at the same time.

- you may wish to remove the whole pump, because, deeper in, a seal between the waterpump and engine is prone to failing, which would leak fresh water into the engine oil. you don't want that, so it is worth replacing this seal proactively! again: parts from albinmotor.se

smooth seas-
Treeman
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Re: A25 Impeller replacement

Post by Treeman »

I'm considering re-doing my AD21 cooling system altogether. I and a number of my fellow owners have had the rear seal on the pump go bad a splooge water into the crankcase. It nearly ruined my engine. The heat exchanger is barely efficient enough to work in our very warm Gulf waters in the summertime and I had to build an exhaust elbow from scratch because the passages in the original and OEM replacement were so small they rusted up. The impellers are quite expensive, too. I'm considering building a bracket and mounting a belt driven Jabsco pump serving a keel cooler and doing dry exhaust. Fighting the original equipment seriously detracts from the fun.
WillieC
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Re: A25 Impeller replacement

Post by WillieC »

"I'm considering building a bracket and mounting a belt driven Jabsco pump"...good idea.
My Volvo Penta originally was raw water cooled, then an HX was added with the piggyback pump. The refreshed MD17C has a separate belt driven pump as you are contemplating. I also had to make my own mount as the earlier version used a barn door hinge as the pivot...kill me now. I still have one camshaft driven raw water pump on the 17C, but it is brand new from ASAP, whom you know well. Good folks.
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