A27 bilge pump

[Randall]

Following earlier posts, I was lead to believe the space between drive shaft and tunnel would only allow replacement with narrow (torpedo) pump. What I found is the tunnel widens about 2 feet toward engine and allowed removal of the old Rule 800 gph pump. Because I purchased narrow pump I installed it. (Whale solid state without external float switch). Hope this info. helps.

Randall
Albin 27FC “Meridian”
North Fort Myers, Fl

[jumpjet]

Randall--great info and it does appear that in fact on my 1988 Albin 27fc the tunnel does widen looking forward. My issue which I have posted on previous threat, is I cannot "yet" get the step in aft cabin removed. Still chasing screws and how it is held in. Once I get the step out, It appears much better and larger access to the stuffing box and aft bilge pump...so far both work ok, but it is only a matter of time.

Steve

[stmbtwle]

I discovered that if you disconnect the hose and remove the strainer, the Rule 800 goes in or out fairly easily, but then you have to reach past the shaft to reassemble it. A piece of coathanger wire is nearly essential on our 27 for "fishing"!

[Randall]

I vote the coat hanger become a catalog item.

Randall
Albin 27 “Meridian”
North Fort Myers,Fl

[WillieC]

Tape a big ole horse pill magnet on one end of it. Any time I open the engine cover, that sucker is close at hand.

[DesertAlbin736]

The subject of bilge pumps came up today in a discussion I had with some sailing friends, unrelated to this discussion. The question from this other boater was how should one wire the power supply for a bilge pump on a boat that's kept full time in a marina slip. At issue, especially for a boat that either had shore power (due to prior storm damage the marina where the subject boat is kept lacks functioning shore power service at the present time) and/or only had a small 2 amp or less trickle charger instead of a robust 10 or 15 amp charger or no shore power at all but only a small solar panel was whether to leave the master battery switch on house bank only with the bilge pump wired through a normal fuse panel, or somehow wire the automatic bilge pump direct to the house battery bank, bypassing the main switch so the rest of the circuits could be left turned off. The theory being that with the master switch on then other parasitic loads could theoretically drag the battery down leaving the bilge pump inoperable, or if a persistent leak caused the pump to draw more amp hours than a small charger or solar panel could compensate for.

[stmbtwle]

I run the pumps and the solar directly to the battery, and I like to have enough solar to operate normal loads.

A bilge alarm on a different battery is a good idea.