A 25 rudder issues

[tribologist]

On mine the post going to the ball joint was to long so that it was not free to move. It was such an obvious issue so they have likely fixed it by the time they made yours. Take a look at my rudder geometry post. Its really easy to cut it and clean up the thread in the lathe.

viewtopic.php?f=28&t=11170

Ulf

[Dieselram94]

On mine the post going to the ball joint was to long so that it was not free to move. It was such an obvious issue so they have likely fixed it by the time they made yours. Take a look at my rudder geometry post. Its really easy to cut it and clean up the thread in the lathe.

viewtopic.php?f=28&t=11170

Ulf

Thank you for the information! I’ll definitely be checking that in a couple hours from now.

[Dieselram94]

On mine the post going to the ball joint was to long so that it was not free to move. It was such an obvious issue so they have likely fixed it by the time they made yours. Take a look at my rudder geometry post. Its really easy to cut it and clean up the thread in the lathe.

viewtopic.php?f=28&t=11170

Ulf

I finally got a picture of my set up, seems someone has already been there at some point in the past.

[Dieselram94]

I had a machinist friend come over, he is going to machine me a new piece of solid stainless to slide into the original stainless pipe from the keel. He is also going to machine a step into the end and tap for a bolt basically as the original set up using the new rudder foot I just received from Albin motors. Should be done in a couple weeks.

[Dieselram94]

Finally got a free hour and was able to remove tiller arm. Had to drill the Allen bolt as it was destroyed by rust. It’s now percolating in electrolysis solution to clean it. I hope it cleans up good as it’s not looking to good, especially where it rides on the fiber washer.

[DesertAlbin736]

Looks like an artifact salvaged from the wreck of the Hesperus.

[Dieselram94]

Looks like an artifact salvaged from the wreck of the Hesperus.

Lol, hopefully won’t be soon. Has to make a emergency trip to Florida for a few days. Be home tomorrow and should make more progress soon!

[WillieC]

File that thing up, wire brush the crap out of or off of it, degrease it, hit it with Ospho and paint. Lots of metal there. Good as new. Oh, and fix the rudder shaft o-ring or you might be doing it again next year.

[Dieselram94]

File that thing up, wire brush the crap out of or off of it, degrease it, hit it with Ospho and paint. Lots of metal there. Good as new. Oh, and fix the rudder shaft o-ring or you might be doing it again next year.

Absolutely, will definitely install new oring. Not familiar with Ospho though. I’ll google it.

[WillieC]

Go in with 20 of your neighbors. A quart of Ospho will last a lifetime. There are other similar products. I heard about so-called rust converters decades ago but dismissed it as magic sauce. Good stuff. The closer you get to full exposure, say the hood of your 64 Mustang, you may want to practice more. But for the tiller arm? A perfect place to start.
Since I replaced the oring on the rudder shaft, I now have another dry storage compartment on the WillieC. Many thanks to dkirsop's simple instructions on that project.

viewtopic.php?f=28&t=10756&p=69947&hili ... ent#p69947

[Dieselram94]

Go in with 20 of your neighbors. A quart of Ospho will last a lifetime. There are other similar products. I heard about so-called rust converters decades ago but dismissed it as magic sauce. Good stuff. The closer you get to full exposure, say the hood of your 64 Mustang, you may want to practice more. But for the tiller arm? A perfect place to start.
Since I replaced the oring on the rudder shaft, I now have another dry storage compartment on the WillieC. Many thanks to dkirsop's simple instructions on that project.

viewtopic.php?f=28&t=10756&p=69947&hili ... ent#p69947

Lol, I just purchased a gallon off amazon. It was about six dollars more than a quart. Awesome reviews though. I’m excited to try it. That’s a awesome detailed link you supplied, it’s cold. I am hoping it warms up a bit so I can drive the bushing out without breaking it. I did buy a buddy heater to help with that though.

[stmbtwle]

Had a similar issue on my previous boat, Beat the tiller silly with a hammer and most of the rust just flew off. Then the Ospho, and finally a couple coats of primer and paint. Looks great. I found a couple nylon washers at Ace hardware and put them between the tiller and the top of the stuffing box to act as "bearings". Worked great! I'll probably do the same with this boat.

[Dieselram94]

Had a similar issue on my previous boat, Beat the tiller silly with a hammer and most of the rust just flew off. Then the Ospho, and finally a couple coats of primer and paint. Looks great. I found a couple nylon washers at Ace hardware and put them between the tiller and the top of the stuffing box to act as "bearings". Worked great! I'll probably do the same with this boat.

I ended up getting everything apart and cleaned up. I electrolysis dipped the tiller, then ospho, then a couple coats of rustoleum hammered black. It looks awesome compared to how it started out! A machinist friend of mine is finishing up making the part I needed to hold the bottom of the rudder in place out of stainless. Probably has it done already. I picked up two orings, one for a spare. So rudder issues are almost taken care of. Now, I need to pull the prop shaft and get measurements so I can get a new one made. Now if it would just stop snowing! Lol
I think I’ll do as you suggested, and get a couple nylon washers for under the tiller arm as well.

[Dieselram94]

Ok, finally got my custom stainless repair part made. It’s awesome! However it has exposed another problem. That being not enough room between pipe head fitting and bottom of rudder stuffing box for the rudder to fit. About 3/8” too tight. I can’t really see a bend in the skeg. Anybody know of any variations in the rudders of these? Not sure it’s the original or even correct rudder( though I believe it is). I think I need to gently bend the skeg down very slightly and all will be good. If I do that I will block up the skeg to support it where it enters the keel. Any thoughts?

[WillieC]

It looks a bit tall, but maybe not. Did you have the old one to measure? I do know the bushing is recessed on mine, not proud as yours shows. As to rudders, I doubt there are different models, but who knows. Not knowing how the skeg is affixed to the fiberglass, bending seems risky, and will change, if slightly, the angle of alignment to the rudder shaft. The WillieC suffered previous damage to that low point on the hull. I noticed it when stripping the bottom for paint. Lots of epoxy work in that area, but well done...hasn't sunk yet.